Box or a parable shaped, the solar oven makes it possible to warm your food using the sun rays.
"The increase of greenhouse gases concerns the entire planet. Each solar oven avoid the production of 1.5 tons of CO2 per year." Bolivia Inti. Indeed, almost 3 billions of individuals only got wood to cook their food.
In the countries of the South, the solar cooker answers many issues and presents numerous benefits:
In France, more and more people wish to be self-sufficient regarding energy. David is one of them; he is using the solar energy. He use a solar oven to boil his water, cook his pieds, cakes or others recipes with gentle cooking.
Built from easy to find material: wood, plywood board, domestic aluminium paper, glass and thermal insulator (cork, sheep's wool, vermiculite, polystyrene...). The production process is easy and cheap. When the sun is here, you can reach high temperatures, up to 120° to 170°, in this two ears system.
The solar oven is a box well hermitically isolated with a transparent cover and reflective faces inside: the sun ray enter by the glass et reflect on the borders of the box to hit the dark surface of the pot. The energy of those raws is so transformed into heat, heat that is stuck in the box. To increase the received solar flux, two ears covered by aluminium are fixed on each side of the box. This permits to reflect the light on the glass which should be as perpendicular as possible to the sun raws. With the metropolitan France's latitudes, the right tilt of sun regarding to the horizon is around 60° in summer and 30° in winter. Thereby, the optimal tilt of the glass is 30° in winter and 60° in summer.The solar oven only runs thanks to the sun raws: clouds, fog and dust reduce the the radiation and thereby, therefore increase the cooking time.
Glass, cadre and ears:
1) Take the plywood panels and the measurer
2) Copy the dimensions of the side A on one of the panels with a ruler
3) Use the protractor to create an angle of 60° and another one of 30° as shown on the schema.
4) Fix the panel on the working table with the clamp.
5) Protect the ears and the eyes
6) Cut following the drawings with the jigsaw.
7) Copy the dimensions of the schema on the second panel to realize the side B.
8) Cut the second panel
9) Draw, cut the panels C, D and E
"Comment": if at the cutting of the panels, the borders of the plywood panel contains thorns, it can be difficult to sand the borders with sandpaper.
The panels being voluntary thin, it is necessary to fix on the panels A and B the sticks that will be used as support to screw the panels C, D and E. The sticks will be, in ideal, of the same thickness of the isolator.
Cut the sticks
1) Take the sticks and draw the desired dimensions
2) Fix the sticks on the clamping and cut with a saw.
Fix the stick to the panels
3) Position one of the stick and use the clamp to maintain the whole
4) Return the panel and screw with a screw (two screws per stick is enough).
"Comment": Keep in mind to keep the thickness of a panel between the "arrête" and the stick (it is at this place that the panels C, D and E will come).
1) Screw the panels C, D and E on the sticks, 3 screws are enough.
We obtain so the inside of the box. The isolator will be added and then the inside box will be covered with reflectings.
"Comment": To screw, it is sometime judicious to pre-screw with a drill or a broach.
The isolator will be bound between the sticks.
1) Take the isolator and the measurer
2) Reproduce the measures on the isolation panels with the measurer
3) Cut with the cutter and then snap into place.
1) Reproduce the measures on the panels and cut
2) Annotate the inside face of a "I" to recognize the face that will be covered by aluminium paper.
3) Coast the panels A', B', C', D' and E' of aluminium paper.
4) Fix the aluminium paper with tape on the back.
"Attention": the aluminium paper is really fragile. If a hole appears, cover it with aluminium paper and tape.
5) Slot the panels at their place.
"To finish with the box":
6) Use the rest of ... to finish the box. In other words, close the space occupied by isolator, use the measurer to do so.
7) Screw the panels with on the sticks (two screws per panels are enough).
"Explanation": The cadre is formed by 3 layers, it will coat the glass and maintain it. A first layer (panel 1, 2, 3 and 4) will form the inside cadre. Under, we put the glass that should enter by 1,5cm. To avoid that the glass goes out and that it is well maintained, we add a layer of the same thickness and dimensions of panels 1, 2, 3 and 4 minus the 1,5cm taken by the glass. Then, we cover the panels 1', 2', 3' and 4'. This last layer is putted alongside, thereby, the aire will have more difficulties to penetrate.
1) Take the pallet/wood boards
2) Cut the board 1, 2, 3 and 4 et use those as pattern to make a second série: 1', 2', 3' and 4'.
"Comment": Use the schemas for the dimensions
3) Make two strips of 500x35mm and two of 470x45mm from the chipboard panel of the same thickness of the glass.
4) The boards 1 and 1' will be slotted to the chipboard "a" and this alongside, in a way to black the air. Screw the whole in a way to create 4 modules.
5) Fix the two modules together, then the 2 others together in a way to create angles
6) Interlock the glass
7) Fix the modules togethers, the glass in maintained: the cadre is finished.
"Comment": if the window has been retrieve, it is possible to cut it with a glass cutter (410x470mm).
8) If needed, cut the meter of hinge with a hacksaw in a way to obtain at least 6 hinges (with 2 holes at minimum).
9) Take 2 hinges and fix them with flat headed screws on the border of the glass/cadre.
10). Screw the other side of the hinge to the board A' of the box.
11) Add seal on the board A', B', C', and D' in a way to not let air penetrate when the cadre in closed.
1) Take the last panel of plywood of 500x550mm of dimension
2) Cut a strip of 15x500mm. This one will serve to thicken the chipboard of 3mm to better screw and fix the hinges.
3) Coat the panel of aluminium.
4) Fix the hinges on the inside face (covered by aluminium) and on the cadre.
5) Take the last chipboard, cover it with aluminium and fix the strip on one of the extremities with a nail.
6) Fix the ear to the cadre/glass with the last 2 hinges.
"Comment": The back face with the tape will be the visible, it is therefore important to do it right!
The ears are fixed. It is time to add the strings to maintain to a certain angle.
7) For the summer position, it is extern ear that will be maintained in suspension. We screw a screw on the extern side of the cadre and roll a string.
For the winter position, it is will be the intern position
8) On the ear, drill 2 holes at around 2cm of gap in the corner et located at around 70mm of the border.
9) Dans les chutes prendre un petit bout de bois (20x10mm) et y percer deux trous.
10) Y faire passer la corde dans un des deux trous, faire passer la corde dans un des deux trous de l’oreille puis dans le deuxième, puis la faire passer dans le second trou du petit bout de bois.
11) Faire un nœud à l’extrémité de la corde et bruler le bout pour ne pas qu’elle s’effiloche.
12) Faire de même pour l’oreille plus fine, cependant cette fois ci visser sur le côté intérieur du cadre. Cette oreille sera la première à être fermée, la corde va se caler entre la vitre et l’oreille.
Il faut maintenant créer des cales permettant de les maintenir en l’air.
13) À partir des chutes, créer des baguettes d’environ 1,5 cm d’épaisseur, affiner le bout de la baguette comme pour faire un piquet.
14) Faire des trous dans l’oreille, ils serviront de crans pour les piquets.
15) Clouer la baguette à l’extérieur du cadre.
16) Fixer un clou à l’opposé qui servira de cale lorsque le four sera fermé.
Remarque : cette partie peut être améliorée, n’hésitez pas à proposer d’autres solutions.
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