Eolienne 200W/en : Différence entre versions

(Page créée avec « * Welding station. »)
(Page créée avec « '''Watch [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_sZ3tH_15E HERE] the video tutorial''' »)
 
(340 révisions intermédiaires par 2 utilisateurs non affichées)
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{{Introduction
 
{{Introduction
−
|Introduction='''Retrouvez [https://youtu.be/e_sZ3tH_15E Ici] la vidéo tutoriel'''
+
|Introduction='''Watch [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_sZ3tH_15E HERE] the video tutorial'''
  
 
This tutorial is based on the work of Scotsman Hugh Piggott [http://scoraigwind.co.uk/ Hugh Piggott]. It was directed with the help of Aurélie Guibert, a member of the Tripalium Network in Valence, France.
 
This tutorial is based on the work of Scotsman Hugh Piggott [http://scoraigwind.co.uk/ Hugh Piggott]. It was directed with the help of Aurélie Guibert, a member of the Tripalium Network in Valence, France.
  
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It is about building a windmill of maximum power of 200W in 12V for a wingspan of 1m 20. It is designed for low power requirements such as lighting an LED or charging of a laptop.
+
It is about building a wind turbine of maximum power of 200W in 12V for a wingspan of 1m 20. It is designed for low power requirements such as lighting an LED or charging of a laptop.
  
 
The distribution part of the electricity and the matting are not given in detail here.
 
The distribution part of the electricity and the matting are not given in detail here.
  
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"The Wind"
+
'''The Wind'''
  
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The power that the wind produces est proportional to the cube of its speed. For example, the windmill in this tutorial receives in its propeller 0.7W when the wind blows at 1m/s and a thousand times more at 10m/s.
+
The power that the wind produces est proportional to the cube of its speed. For example, the wind turbine in this tutorial receives in its propeller 0.7W when the wind blows at 1m/s and a thousand times more at 10m/s.
  
 
To calculate it: '''P= 1/2 x Rho x S x v^3''' with P: power (W), Rho:  density of the air (about 1.23 kg/m 3), S: Surface swept by the propeller (m²), v: velocity of wind (m/s)
 
To calculate it: '''P= 1/2 x Rho x S x v^3''' with P: power (W), Rho:  density of the air (about 1.23 kg/m 3), S: Surface swept by the propeller (m²), v: velocity of wind (m/s)
  
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It is therefore necessary to study the land where we install the windmill to see if the wind blows relatively constant and with sufficient speed for producing minimum energy.
+
It is therefore necessary to study the land where we install the wind turbine to see if the wind blows relatively constant and with sufficient speed for producing minimum energy.
  
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Like every other system, a part of energy is lost by the windmill. In theory, a windmill can never transform more than 60% of the energy that the wind provides, this is the Betz limit. In practice, with the type of windmill developed in this tutorial, the efficiency can reach up to 35%.
+
Like every other system, a part of energy is lost by the wind turbine. In theory, a wind turbine can never transform more than 60% of the energy that the wind provides, this is the Betz limit. In practice, with the type of wind turbine developed in this tutorial, the efficiency can reach up to 35%.
  
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"'The location"'
+
'''The location'''
  
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Generally, it is better to have land free from trees and dwellings. The windmills of the same height placed in cities or on the gables of the houses produce much less energy because of the wind's turbulence. Similarly, the wind is more constant and powerful on an altitude, therefore it is preferred to install a small windmill at height than a big windmill at a low altitude.
+
Generally, it is better to have land free from trees and dwellings. The wind turbines of the same height placed in cities or on the gables of the houses produce much less energy because of the wind's turbulence. Similarly, the wind is more constant and powerful on an altitude, therefore it is preferred to install a small wind turbine at height than a big wind turbine at a low altitude.
  
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"'Cost"'
+
'''Cost'''
  
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Although it is a Low-tech, the cost of constructing this windmill is around 350€ if all the materials are bought. Including the matting and the electronics, the cost is around 2000€. It can be interesting to install it in off-grid areas with a view to autonomy. In the case of a network connection, it is not financially attractive.
+
Although it is a Low-tech, the cost of constructing this wind turbine is around 350€ if all the materials are bought. Including the matting and the electronics, the cost is around 2000€. It can be interesting to install it in off-grid areas with a view to autonomy. In the case of a network connection, it is not financially attractive.
 
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{{TutoVideo
 
{{TutoVideo
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{{Materials
 
{{Materials
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|Material="List of materials required for the propeller, refer to the chapters for details"
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|Material='''List of materials required for the propeller, refer to the chapters for details'''
  
 
* Scraps of plywood
 
* Scraps of plywood
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* Some screws of diameter 5mm, length 30mm.
 
* Some screws of diameter 5mm, length 30mm.
  
−
* "List of materials required for the generator, refer to the chapters for details"
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'''List of materials required for the generator, refer to the chapters for details'''
  
 
* Metal disc of thickness 8mm and diameter 140mm.
 
* Metal disc of thickness 8mm and diameter 140mm.
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* Bolts 12mm.
 
* Bolts 12mm.
  
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* "List of materials required for the steel structure, refer to the chapters for details"
+
'''List of materials required for the steel structure, refer to the chapters for details'''
  
 
* Angle of 206mm (50x50x6mm).
 
* Angle of 206mm (50x50x6mm).
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* 60 cm of threaded rods with diameter 12mm.
 
* 60 cm of threaded rods with diameter 12mm.
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|Tools="List indicative of equipment, refer to the chapters for details"
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|Tools='''List indicative of equipment, refer to the chapters for details'''
  
 
* Saws (hand, jigsaw, circular).
 
* Saws (hand, jigsaw, circular).
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* Clamps
 
* Clamps
  
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* Plane, wood scissor, spokeshave, planes.
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* Palm plane, wood chisels, spokeshave, hand planes.
  
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* Drill, screwdriver, metal and wood drill up to 14mm, a hole saw diameter 60mm.
+
* Drill, screwdriver, metal and wood drill up to 14mm, a Hole Cutter of diameter 60mm.
  
 
* Grinding machine, cutting blades, grinding discs, gloves and safety glasses.
 
* Grinding machine, cutting blades, grinding discs, gloves and safety glasses.
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* Welding station.
 
* Welding station.
  
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* Fer à souder, étain.
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* Soldering iron, tin.
  
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* balance électronique.
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* electronic scale.
  
−
* seringues graduées.
+
* graduated syringes.
  
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* Gants latex.
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* Latex gloves.
  
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* Barquettes plastiques.
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* Plastic trays,
  
−
* Paire de ciseaux.
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* Pair of scissors.
  
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* Voltmètre.
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* Voltmeter
 
|Tuto_Attachments={{Tuto Attachments
 
|Tuto_Attachments={{Tuto Attachments
 
|Attachment=Eolienne_200W_Affiche_EoliennePigott_FR.pdf
 
|Attachment=Eolienne_200W_Affiche_EoliennePigott_FR.pdf
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}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
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|Step_Title=Hélice: le patron
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|Step_Title=Propeller: The pattern
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|Step_Content=* Tracer et découper le patron des pales dans une planche.
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|Step_Content=* Draw and cut the blade pattern in a board.
  
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* Noter sur chaque face du patron, celle qui correspond à l''''intrados''' et celle qui correspond à l''''extrados'''.
+
* Note on each side of the pattern, the one which corresponds the '''lower surface''' and the one which corresponds the '''upper surface'''.
  
−
'''Remarque''': L''''intrados''' est la face des pales qui reçoit le vent, l''''extrados''' est la face arrière.
+
''' Note ''': The '''lower surface''' is the side of the blade which receives the wind, the '''upper surface''' is the back side of the blade.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_patron_2.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_patron_2.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.28_-_19.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.28_-_19.JPG
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
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|Step_Title=Hélice: traçage et découpe des pales
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|Step_Title=Propeller: drawing and cutting of the blades.
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|Step_Content=* Choisir un bastaing de section minimum 95mm x 35mm
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|Step_Content=* Choose a plank of dimension minimum 95mm x 35mm
  
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'''Remarques''':
+
'''Notes''':
  
−
1) Le bois sélectionné doit être imputrescible, relativement léger et facile à travailler. Le cèdre rouge, le pin d'Oregon, l’épicéa, le mélèze, le douglas peuvent par exemple convenir.
+
1) The wood should be imputrescible, light-weighted and easy to work with. For example, red cedar, Oregon pine, spruce, larch, douglas fir may be suitable.
  
 
2) For this tutorial, the section of the red cedar plank is 150mm x 45mm.
 
2) For this tutorial, the section of the red cedar plank is 150mm x 45mm.
  
−
3) Le paramètre qui détermine l'énergie transmise par le vent à l'hélice est la longueur de la pale et non sa largeur. La section du bastaing peut donc varier.
+
3) The parameter which determines the energy transmitted by the wind at the propeller is the length of the blade and not it’s breadth.
  
−
*A l'aide du patron, '''face intrados visible''', tracer l'emplacement de la première pale.
+
*With the help of the blade pattern, '''lower side visible''', mark the location for the first blade.
  
−
'''Remarques''':
+
'''Notes''':
  
−
1) Placer les nœuds et défauts du bois plutôt en pied de pale, afin de ne pas fragiliser la partie la plus fine (milieu-bout de pale).
+
1) Put the knots and defects of the wood at the end of the blade, so that the thinnest part does not become fragile (middle-end of the blade).
  
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2) Sélectionner l'arête du bord d'attaque la plus propre possible. Cette arête ne sera pas modifiée durant la sculpture de la pale.
+
2) Select the leading edge ridge as neatly as possible. This ridge will not be altered during the cutting of the blade.
  
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3) Prolonger le tracer du bout de pale de 4 à 5 cm afin de conserver une marge en cas de bris.
+
3) Extend the blade tip pattern by 4-5 cm to maintain a margin in case of damage.
  
−
* Faire de même pour les 2 autres pales et couper les pales.
+
* Do the same for the 2 other blades and cut the blades.
  
−
'''Remarque''': en cas d'utilisation d'une scie circulaire pour la découpe, prendre garde à placer la largeur de la lame toujours du coté extérieur au trait.
+
'''Note''': When using a circular saw for cutting, be careful to place the width of the blade always on the outside of the line.
  
−
* Rectifier le gauche des pales si nécessaire à l'aide d'un rabot.
+
* Rectify the left of the blades if necessary with the help of a plane.
  
−
* Fixer les trois pales ensemble à l'aide de serre-joints et égaliser les plans de fuite. Les 3 trois pales doivent être rigoureusement identiques.
+
* Fix the 3 blades together with the help of the clamps and equalize all the irregular planes. All the 3 blades needs to be strictly identical.
  
−
* Tracer au marqueur l'arête du bord d'attaque qui restera telle quelle. C'est un repère.
+
* Mark the position of the leading edge ridge for it to stay where it is. It will be its landmark.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.28_-_67.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.28_-_67.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.28_-_24.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.28_-_24.JPG
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}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Hélice: Sculpture de l'intrados des pales
+
|Step_Title=Propeller: Sculpture of the lower surface of the blades
−
|Step_Content=* Selon schéma, tracer les 4 sections le long de la pale.
+
|Step_Content=* According to the diagram, draw the 4 sections along the blade.
  
−
* Selon schéma, tracer la zone de l'intrados à sculpter.
+
* According to the diagram, draw the area of the inner surface to be sculpted.
  
−
* Pour faciliter les repères, hachurer la zone de bois à éliminer.
+
* For easy reference, hatch/shade the area of the wood to be eliminated.
  
−
* A l'aide d'une plane, de ciseaux de charpentier et d'une wastringue pour les finitions, enlever le bois dans la partie hachurée.
+
* With the help of a plane, chisels, and a spokeshave for the finishing, cut off the hatched/shaded part of the wood.
  
−
'''Remarque''': Pour garantir de bonnes cotes, la sculpture doit venir au plus près du trait de crayon sans l'effacer.
+
'''Note''': To guarantee good dimensions, the sculpture must come as close as possible to the pencil stroke without erasing it.
  
−
* A l'aide d'une règle, vérifier la planéité en toutes sections de l'intrados sculpté.
+
* With the help of a scale, check the evenness of all sections of the sculpted lower surface of the blade.
  
−
* Une fois les 3 pales terminées, vérifier l'égalité des cotes en plusieurs points sur les 4 sections tracées auparavant.
+
* Once the 3 blades are finished, check if all the dimensions are equal on multiple points on the 4 sections drawn previously.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_pale_1_style.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_pale_1_style.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_pale_2_style.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_pale_2_style.jpg
Ligne 218 : Ligne 218 :
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Hélice: Sculpture de l'extrados des pales
+
|Step_Title=Propeller: Sculpture of the lower surface of the blades
−
|Step_Content=* Positionner la pale, face '''extrados''' visible.
+
|Step_Content=* Position the blade in such a way that it's '''upper surface''' is visible.
  
−
* Selon schéma, tracer le point '''A'''. Il se situe au 2/3 de la largeur du pied de pale depuis le bord de fuite. Ce point est le centre de rotation de l'hélice.
+
* According to the diagram, draw the point '''A'''. It is on 2/3 of the width of the blade's base from the trailing edge. This point is the center of rotation of the propeller.
  
−
* Tracer ensuite le point '''B''' sur le bord d'attaque en reportant à l'aide d'un compas centré en '''A''' les 2/3 du pied de pale. Puis relier '''AB'''.
+
* Then draw the point '''B''' on the leading edge by using a compass centered in '''A''' the 2/3 of the blade base. Then join '''AB'''.
  
−
'''Remarque''': Le segment '''AB''' forme un angle de 120° avec le pied de pale, qui sera nécessaire par la suite pour l’emboîtement des pales.
+
'''Note''': The segment '''AB''' form an angle of 120° with the base of the blade, which will be later required for the assembly of the blades.
  
−
* Selon schéma, tracer un cercle de rayon 100mm centré en A. La surface de cette portion de disque est à laisser intacte et bien plane jusqu'à la fin pour le bon assemblage des pales.
+
* According to the diagram, draw a circle of radius 100mm centered at A. The surface of this portion of the disc should be left intact and levelled until the end for proper blade assembly.
  
−
'''Remarque''': Dans le cas de ce tutoriel, le point '''B''' se situe sur le périmètre du cercle. Ce n'est pas toujours le cas en fonction de la largeur du bastaing.
+
'''Note''': In the case of this tutorial, the point '''B''' is situated on the perimeter of the circle. This is not always the case depending on the width of the plank.
  
−
*Selon schéma, tracer l'épaisseur de la pale sur le plan de fuite.
+
* According to the diagram, draw the thickness of the blade on the irregular planes.
  
−
'''Remarque''': Selon l'épaisseur du bastaing, il peut arriver qu'il n'y ait pas 17mm d'épaisseur en section 3. Tracer tout de même l'épaisseur en imaginant un point dans l'espace à 17mm du bord de fuite sur cette section 3.
+
'''Note''': According to the thickness of the plank, it might appear that the thickness is not 17mm in section 3. Imagine a point in the space for the thickness 17mm on the rear edge on this section 3.
  
−
* Nommer '''C''' l'intersection entre le tracer de l'épaisseur et le bord de la pale.
+
* Name '''C''' to the intersection between the point traced for the thickness and the base of the blade.
  
−
* Selon schéma, tracer ensuite l'épaisseur de la pale sur la face d'attaque en respectant les mêmes épaisseurs que pour le plan de fuite. Relier le point de la section 3 au point '''B'''.
+
* According to the diagram, then draw the thickness of the blade at the front edge respecting the same thickness as that of the irregular plane. Connect the point of the section 3 to the point '''B'''.
  
−
* Sur la face extrados, relier '''B''' et '''C''' afin de fermer la zone à sculpter.
+
* On the upper surface side, connect '''B''' and '''C''' to close the area to be sculpted.
  
−
* Pour faciliter les repères, hachurer la zone de bois à éliminer.
+
* For easy reference, hatch/shade the area of the wood to be eliminated.
  
−
* A l'aide d'une plane, de ciseaux de charpentier et d'une wastringue pour les finitions, enlever le bois dans la partie hachurée.
+
* With the help of a plane, chisels, and a spokeshave for the finishing, cut off the hatched/shaded part of the wood.
  
−
'''Remarque''': Pour garantir de bonnes cotes, la sculpture doit venir au plus près du trait de crayon sans l'effacer.
+
'''Note''': To guarantee good dimensions, the sculpture must come as close as possible to the pencil stroke without erasing it.
  
−
* A l'aide d'une règle, vérifier la planéité en toute section de l'extrados sculpté.
+
* With the help of a scale, check the evenness of all sections of the sculpted lower surface of the blade.
  
−
* Une fois les 3 pales terminées, vérifier l'égalité des cotes en plusieurs points sur les 4 sections tracées auparavant.
+
* Once the 3 blades are finished, check if all the dimensions are equal on multiple points on the 4 sections drawn previously.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_pale_5_style_m.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_pale_5_style_m.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_pale_6_style.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_pale_6_style.jpg
Ligne 258 : Ligne 258 :
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Hélice: Finalisation profil pale
+
|Step_Title=Propeller: Blade profile finalization
−
|Step_Content=* Sur la face '''extrados''', tracer sur toute la longueur, à partir du bord d'attaque un trait représentant 30% de la largeur de la pale et un trait représentant 50% de la largeur de la pale.
+
|Step_Content=* On the '''upper surface''', draw a line representing 30% of the width of the blade and a line representing 50% of the width of the blade from the leading edge.
  
−
* Vérifier, à l’aide d’un compas d’épaisseur, l’épaisseur à chaque section sur la ligne de 30%. Comparer les 3 pales et ajuster les plus épaisses si elles ne sont pas rigoureusement identiques.
+
* Check, with the help of the caliper compass, the thickness of each section on the line of 30%. Compare the 3 blades and adjust the thicker ones if they are not exactly identical.
  
−
'''Remarque''': La ligne des 30% correspond à l’épaisseur finale de la pale, c’est pourquoi on vérifie les cotes à cet endroit précis.
+
'''Note''': The 30% line corresponds to the final thickness of the blade, which is why we check the dimensions at this precise location.
  
−
* De la ligne des 50% au bord de fuite, sculpter une surface bien plane en laissant une épaisseur de moins d'1 mm sur le bord de fuite.
+
* From the 50% line to the rear edge, sculpt a flat surface leaving a thickness of less than 1 mm on the rear edge.
  
−
'''Remarque''': Attention à ne pas faire d'éclat sur le bord de fuite, c'est une zone très délicate.
+
'''Note''': Be careful not to crack the rear edge as it is very delicate area.
  
−
* Du bord d'attaque à la ligne des 30%, sculpter un bel arrondi à l'aide d'une plane, d'une wastringue ou d'un rabot. L'angle d'attaque doit être d'environ 60°.
+
* From the leading edge to the 30% line, sculpt a beautiful rounding using a hand plane, spokeshaven or palm plane. The angle of the leading edge  should be approximately 60°.
  
−
* Lorsque ces deux zones sont terminées, casser l’arrête restante de la ligne à 50% afin de réaliser un profil continu du bord d'attaque jusqu'au bord de fuite. La seule ligne encore visible au crayon doit être celle à 30%.
+
* When these two areas are complete, break the remaining 50% line block to achieve a continuous profile from leading edge to trailing edge. The only line still visible in pencil should be the 30% line.
  
−
Une fois ce travail terminé sur les 3 pales:
+
Once the work on the 3 blades is completed:
  
−
* Scier les pales à 600mm pour supprimer la marge laissée au début en bout de pale à l'aide d'une scie japonaise.
+
* Saw the blades at 600mm to remove the margin left at the beginning of the blade tip with a Japanese saw.
  
−
* Scier la section définie par '''AB''' en pied de pale pour pouvoir emboîter les 3 pales à 120°.
+
* Saw the section marked as '''AB''' on the base of the blade to the interlock the 3 blades at 120°.
  
−
'''Remarque''': On préférera avoir un angle légèrement inférieur à 120° pour pouvoir pivoter légèrement les pales lors de l’assemblage.
+
'''Note''': The angle should be slightly less than 120° in order to be able to rotate the blades slightly during assembly.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.30_-_42.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.30_-_42.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_pale_11_style.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_pale_11_style.jpg
Ligne 287 : Ligne 287 :
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Hélice: Réalisation des supports d'assemblage
+
|Step_Title=Propeller: Construction of assembly supports
−
|Step_Content=* Selon schéma, réaliser un disque et ses traçages/perçages dans un contreplaqué épaisseur 9mm. Le diamètre des cercles pour le positionnement des pré-perçage (pour vis 5mm) des vis est fixé arbitrairement. 3 zones à 120° sont définies. Ce disque sert à l'assemblage de l'hélice coté extrados.
+
|Step_Content=* According to the diagram, make a disc and its tracks/holes in a plywood of thickness 9mm. The diameter of the circles for the positioning of the pre-drilling of the screws (for 5mm screws) is fixed arbitrarily. 3 zones at 120° are defined. This disc is used to assemble the propeller on the outer side.
  
−
* Selon schéma, réaliser un triangle et ses traçages/perçages dans un contreplaqué de 9mm. Chaque pied de pale, face extrados posée sur le triangle, est représenté sur le triangle. Le tracé du cercle central permet de ne pas venir pré-percer sur cette zone qui va accueillir par la suite des tiges filetées. Les lignes parallèles aux cotés pour les pré-perçages (pour vis 5mm) sont définies arbitrairement. Ce triangle sert à l'assemblage de l'hélice coté intrados.
+
* According to the diagram, make a triangle and its tracks/holes in a plywood of thickness 9mm. Each blade's base, on the outer surface of the triangle, is represented on the triangle. The outline of the central circle does not allow the pre-drilled to enter this area which will subsequently accommodate threaded rods. The lines parallel to the sides for pre-drills (for 5mm screws) are randomly defined. This triangle is used to assemble the propeller on the inner surface.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_disque_cp_1_style_m.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_disque_cp_1_style_m.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_triangle_cp_1_style_m.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_triangle_cp_1_style_m.jpg
Ligne 297 : Ligne 297 :
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Hélice: Assemblage
+
|Step_Title=Propeller: Assembly
−
|Step_Content=* Positionner les pales en hélice, face extrados visible, sur une surface bien plane.
+
|Step_Content=* Place the blade on the propeller on a good flat surface with the outer surface side visible.
  
−
* Centrer le disque en contreplaqué, à l'aide d'un foret en guise de pion de centrage par exemple.
+
* Place the disc in the center of the plywood, with the help of a drill with a centering pin.
  
−
* A l'aide de 3 mètres et de 3 personnes, positionner le cercle de tel sorte que chaque bout de pale soit à équidistance du pion centreur. La référence en bout de pale est le bout de bord d'attaque.
+
* With 3 measuring tape and 3 people, position the circle in such a way that the tip of the blade should be equidistant from the centering pin. The tip of the blade here means the tip of the leading edge.
  
−
* Une fois bien centré, maintenir le cercle en position et visser '''une seule vis par pale''' pour qu'elles puissent encore pivoter.
+
* Once it is placed correctly in the center, maintain the circle's position and screw-in '''one screw for each blade''' so that it can still pivot.
  
−
* Régler ensuite la distance entre chaque bout de pale à l'aide de 3 mètres.
+
* Then adjust the distance between every tip of the blade with a measuring tape.
  
−
* Maintenir en position puis visser toutes les vis.
+
* Hold the position and then screw-in all the screws.
  
−
* Visser le triangle sur la face intrados en prenant soin de placer le triangle du bon coté pour que les pré-perçages soient bien en face du pied de pale.
+
* Screw-in the triangle on the side intrados while taking care to place the right side of the triangle so that the pre-drills are in front of the blade foot.
  
−
* Prolonger, à travers toute l'hélice, les 4 trous de 12mm présent sur le disque de contreplaqué. S'aider d'une équerre afin d'assurer des trous bien verticaux.
+
* Expand the 4 holes of 12mm on the plywood disc along the entire propeller. Use a square to ensure vertical holes.
  
−
'''Remarque''': pour aider à l’emboîtement de l’hélice sur le reste de l'éolienne, il est possible d'agrandir les trous de 12mm en 14mm sur l'épaisseur du triangle et des pales, '''sans toucher au diamètre 12mm du disque'''.
+
'''Note''': To help the propeller to fit-in on the rest of the wind turbine, it is possible to enlarge the holes of 12mm in 14mm on the thickness of the triangle and the blades, '''without touching the diameter 12mm of the disc'''.
  
−
* A l'aide d'une scie cloche de 60mm de diamètre, éliminer un cylindre de 30mm de profondeur depuis la face extrados.
+
* With an hole cutter of 60mm diameter, cut a cylinder of 30mm deep from the side extrados.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.09.01_-_52.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.09.01_-_52.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.09.01_-_55.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.09.01_-_55.JPG
Ligne 325 : Ligne 325 :
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Génératrice, stator: Préparation du berceau
+
|Step_Title=Generator, stator: Preparation of the cradle.
−
|Step_Content=* Se munir d'un disque en métal de diamètre 140mm et  d'épaisseur 8mm.
+
|Step_Content=* Take a metallic disc of diameter 140mm and thickness 8mm.
  
−
* Selon schéma, réaliser les perçages à 12mm.
+
* According to the diagram, drill holes at 12mm.
  
−
'''Remarque''': Pour un perçage précis, pointer le centre à l'aide d'un pointeau, pré-percer avec un foret de petit diamètre et ensuite à 12mm. Choisir [http://www.usinages.com/threads/vitesse-de-rotation-pour-percage.4390/ une vitesse de rotation adaptée] au matériau et au diamètre du foret. Bien lubrifier durant le perçage.
+
'''Note''': For a precise hole, point the center with a pin, pre-drill with a drill of small diameter and then at 12mm. Choose a [http://www.usinages.com/threads/vitesse-de-rotation-pour-percage.4390/ rotation speed adapted to] material and diameter of drill. Lubricate well during drilling.
  
−
* Se munir d'un moyeu arrière de Golf, de Corsa, de Polo ou d'Ibiza, récupérable en casse automobile. Séparer la partie qui se fixe à la voiture (fusée) et la partie tournante (cloche) en prenant soin de mettre écrous et roulements à billes de coté.
+
* Take a rear wheel hub of Golf, Corsa, Polo or Ibiza, it can be recovered from a scrapped car. Separate the part that attaches to the car (spindle) and the rotating part (a bell-shaped part) while careful putting aside the nuts and ball bearings.
  
−
* Tracer sur le disque en métal un cercle de rayon légèrement supérieur à 40mm pour centrer le socle de la fusée sur le berceau.  
+
* Draw a circle of radius slightly greater than 40mm on the metallic disc to center the spindle's base on the cradle.
−
Fixer temporairement les deux pièces avec quelques points de soudure. Réaliser les 4 perçages à travers le socle de la fusée et le berceau.
+
Fix the two part temporarily with a few soldering points. Make the 4 drills across the base of the spindle and the cradle.
  
−
'''Remarque''': Si les 4 vis initiales de la fusée sont en bon état, il est possible de les récupérer en perçant uniquement le berceau et en vissant dans le socle directement. Dans ce cas, il faut faire attention à ne pas abîmer le filetage d’origine (qui est un filetage mécanique, ne peut pas être utilisé avec d’autres vis). Il est parfois nécessaire de raccourcir ces vis pour ne pas gêner lors de l’assemblage.
+
'''Note''': If the 4 initial screws of the spindle are in good condition, they can be recovered by drilling only the cradle and screwing directly into the base. In this case, care should be taken that the original threading should not get damaged (which is a mechanical threading and cannot be used with other screws). It is sometimes necessary to shorten these screws so as to avoid problems during assembly.
  
−
* Percer le centre du berceau avec un petit foret (environ 3mm). Ce perçage servira lors du moulage du stator.
+
*Drill the center of the cradle with a small drill (approx 3mm). This drilling will be used when the stator is cast.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_berceau_1_style.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_berceau_1_style.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.30_-_109m.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.30_-_109m.JPG
Ligne 345 : Ligne 345 :
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Génératrice, stator: Préparation tiges filetées stator
+
|Step_Title=Generator, stator: Preparation threaded stator rods
−
|Step_Content='''Remarque''': Le '''stator''' est la partie fixe de la génératrice.
+
|Step_Content='''Note''': The '''stator''' is the fixed part of the generator.
  
−
* Se munir d'une tige filetée de diamètre 12mm.
+
* Take a threaded rod of 12mm diameter.
  
−
* Couper 3 tiges de 70mm de long.
+
* Cut 3 70mm long rods.
  
−
'''Remarques''':
+
'''Notes''':
  
−
1) Si un étau est utilisé pour maintenir la tige filetée pendant la découpe, enrouler la tige filetée dans un tissu au niveau des mors avant de serrer pour ne pas abîmer le pas de vis.
+
1) If a clamp is used to maintain the threaded rod while cutting, wrap the threaded rod in a cloth at the jaws before tightening, to avoid damage to the screw pitch.
  
−
2) Avant de couper, visser un écrou sur la partie de la tige qui va être coupée afin de pouvoir reformer le pas de vis au niveau de la découpe grâce au passage répété de l'écrou.
+
2) Before cutting the rod, screw a nut on the part of the rod that will be cut in order to reform the pitch of the screw at the level where it is been cut  through the repeating passage of the nut.
  
−
* Fendre en croix sur 10mm de long une des extrémités de chaque tige filetée.
+
* Make slits to form cross of 10mm deep on one end of each threaded rod.
  
−
* Mettre de coté le berceau et ces 3 tiges filetées qui serviront par la suite pour le moulage.
+
* Set aside the cradle and the 3 threaded rods, they will be useful during the molding later.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_22.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_22.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_29.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_29.JPG
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Génératrice, stator: Préparation du bobineur
+
|Step_Title=Generator, stator: Preparation of the coil.
−
|Step_Content=* Fabriquer le bobineur à l'aide de cornière, tube métallique, tige filetée/écrous de 10mm de diamètre, 4 gros clous de diamètre 6 et chutes de contreplaqué. Respecter les dimensions du schéma pour les découpes de contreplaqué: le rectangle défini par les bords extérieurs des 4 gros clous doit faire 46mm x 30mm.
+
|Step_Content=* Make the coil with the help of the angle, metallic tube, threaded rod/nuts of 10mm diameter, 4 large nails of diameter of 6 and plywood scraps. Follow the dimensions from the diagram while cutting the plywood: the rectangle defined by the 4 large nails on the outer edges should be of dimensions 46mm x 30mm.
  
−
'''Remarque''': Les bobines seront enroulées entre les deux disques de contreplaqué (épaisseur minimale 15mm), qu’on appelle les « oreilles ». Le petit rectangle de contreplaqué situé entre les deux oreilles est l’espaceur : c’est lui qui détermine l’épaisseur de la bobine. La forme intérieure des bobines est déterminée par les bords extérieurs des 4 gros clous, formant un rectangle de 46mm x 30mm. Ce rectangle correspond aux dimensions des aimants qui passeront devant.
+
'''Notes''': The coils will be wound between the 2 discs of the plywood (thickness minimum 15mm), which are known as "ears". The small plywood rectangle between the two ears is the spacer: which determines the thickness of the coil. The inner shape of the coil is determined by the outer edges of the 4 large nails, this forms a rectangle of 46mm x 30mm. This rectangle corresponds to the dimensions of the magnets that will pass in front.
  
−
* Après avoir réalisé la structure en métal « socle » du bobineur, découper les deux oreilles et l’espaceur selon le schéma. Réaliser les perçages avec précision. Découper une petite entaille sur une des deux oreilles pour coincer le fil de cuivre au moment du bobinage.
+
* After completing the metal “base” structure of the coiler, cut out both ears and the spacer as shown. Make with drills with precision. Cut a small notch on one of the two ears to catch the copper wire while winding it.
  
−
'''Remarque''': Pour faciliter le glissement du fil lors du bobinage, il est possible de chanfreiner la tranche intérieure des oreilles. Faire une marque au feutre sur la tranche des deux oreilles pour compter les tours plus facilement.
+
'''Notes''': For the easy slippage of the wire, you can bevel the inner edges of the ears. Make markings with a marker on the edge of both ears to count the turns more easily.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.28_-_200.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.28_-_200.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.28_-_201.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.28_-_201.JPG
Ligne 378 : Ligne 378 :
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Génératrice, stator: Réalisation des 6 bobines.
+
|Step_Title=Generator, stator: Making of 6 coils.
−
|Step_Content='''Remarque''': Le stator est composé de 6 bobines de 76 tours, réalisées avec du fil de cuivre émaillé de 1,4mm de diamètre. Ce dimensionnement permet à la génératrice de produire maximum 200W en 12V sans endommager les fils. Afin de réaliser les 6 bobines, 1,5kg de fil de cuivre sont nécessaires.
+
|Step_Content='''Notes''': The stator is composed of 6 coils made with 76 rounds of 1.4mm diameter enameled copper wire. This allows the generator to produce maximum 200W in 12V without damaging the wires. In order to make 6 coils, 1.5kg of copper wire is required.
  
−
* A l'aide d'une personne et du bobineur, réaliser 1 bobine. 1 personne enroule le fil et compte les tours précisément, une personne crée une tension dans le fil et s'assure de la bonne répartition du fil sur l'épaisseur du bobineur. Si la tension dans le fil n'est pas assez importante, la bobine sera trop large.
+
* With the help of one person and a coiler, windup a coil. 1 person can wind up the wire and count the turns precisely, one person can create tension in the wire and assure correct distribution of wire over the thickness of the coiler. If the wire does not have enough tension, the coil will be too wide.
  
−
* Laisser une marge de 30 cm de fil avant de commencer à enrouler le fil ainsi qu'à la fin.
+
* Leave a margin of 60cm of the wire before starting to coil the wire and the end as well.
  
−
* Avant de démouler, maintenir la bobine avec du scotch d'électricien. Il est possible de s'aider d'un réglet pour passer le scotch entre l'espaceur et la bobine, grâce aux grandes fentes sur les oreilles prévues à cet effet.
+
* Before unmolding, seal the coil with an electrical tape. A ruler can be use to pass the tape between the spacer and the coil, with the help of the large slots on the ears which were created for this purpose.
  
−
* Au total, réaliser 6 bobines.
+
* Make 6 coils in total.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.28_-_220.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.28_-_220.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.28_-_231.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.28_-_231.JPG
Ligne 394 : Ligne 394 :
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Génératrice, stator: Montage "étoile"
+
|Step_Title=Generator, stator: "Star" mounting
−
|Step_Content=* Réaliser dans une chute de contreplaqué le gabarit en schéma. Tracer l'emplacement qui accueillera les 3 tiges filetées au centre ainsi que l'emplacement du centre de chacune des bobines. Il y a 6 bobines, l'écart entre chaque est de 60°.
+
|Step_Content=* Make the template from the diagram on the scrap plywood. Mark the position for the 3 threaded rods at the center and also mark for the centers of the coils. There are 6 coils, the gap between each is 60°.
  
−
* A l'aide de 6 chutes de contreplaqué d'environ 50mm x 25mm, fixer chaque bobine à son emplacement sur le gabarit. Numéroter chaque bobine de 1 à 6 comme sur le gabarit.
+
* With the help of 6 plywood scraps of approximate 50mm x 25mm, attach each coil to its position on the template. Number each coil from 1 to 6 as shown in the template.
  
−
'''Remarque''': Il est '''impératif''' que toutes les bobines soient positionnées avec '''les spires tournant dans le même sens''', soit horaire soit anti-horaire. Si ce point n'est pas respecté, la génératrice ne fonctionnera pas comme prévu.
+
'''Notes''': It is '''important''' that all coils are positioned with '''the coils turning in the same direction''', either clockwise or anti-clockwise. If this instruction is not respected, the generator will not function as expected.
  
−
* Relier les bobines selon le schéma en prenant soin de laisser libre le centre et les emplacements des tiges filetées.
+
* Link the coils according to the diagram while taking care of letting the center and the placement of the threaded rods free.
  
−
1) Relier les entrées des bobines 1,2 et 3: c'est le point neutre.
+
* Connect the inputs of the coils 1,2 et 3: this is the neutral point.
  
−
2) Relier la sortie de 1 à l'entrée de 4.
+
2) Connect the output of 1 to the input of 4.
  
−
3) Relier la sortie de 2 à l'entrée de 5.
+
3) Connect the output of 2 to the input of 5.
  
−
4) Relier la sortie de 3 à l'entrée de 6.
+
4) Connect the output of 3 to the input of 6.
  
−
* Couper le surplus des fils de chaque bobine.
+
* Cut the extra wire from each coil.
  
−
* A l'aide d'un cutter, enlever l'émail sur 3 cm sur chaque extrémité de fils. La surface du fil doit devenir plus claire et mat.
+
* With the help of the cutter, remove the enamel up to 3cm on every wire. The surface of the wire should be clearer and more matte.
  
−
* Torsader les fils de chaque connexion.
+
* Twist the wires of each connection.
  
−
* Souder les connexions avec un fer à souder et de l'étain. Pour une belle soudure, faire chauffer la zone à souder puis déposer l'étain sur le fil pour qu'il fonde et migre dans les interstices.
+
* Solder the connections with a soldering iron. For a good solder, heat the area to be soldered then put the tin on the wire so that it melts and fills the gaps.
  
−
* Protéger chaque soudure avec de la gaine thermorétractable.
+
* Protect each weld with heat shrink tube.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_gabarit_bobine_1_style.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_gabarit_bobine_1_style.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.29_-_98.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.29_-_98.JPG
Ligne 428 : Ligne 428 :
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Génératrice, stator: Câble triphasé
+
|Step_Title=Generator, stator: Three-phase cable
−
|Step_Content=* Se munir de 60cm de cable 3 fils souple, 2,5mm².
+
|Step_Content=* Take 60cm of flexible 3-wire cable, 2.5mm².
  
−
* Souder les sorties des bobines 4, 5 et 6 formant les 3 phases puis les protéger avec de la gaine thermorétractable. Une attention particulière doit être apportée à l'isolation, les fils pouvant se toucher.
+
* Solder de the ends of the coil 4,5, and 6 forming the 3 phases then protect them with the heat shrinking sleeves. Special attention need to paid to the insulation, the wires can touch each other.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.29_-_137_m.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.29_-_137_m.JPG
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Génératrice, stator: Réalisation du moule de stator
+
|Step_Title=Generator, stator: Making the stator mould
−
|Step_Content=* Dans du contreplaqué de 10mm d'épaisseur réaliser le moule selon schéma.
+
|Step_Content=* In 10 mm thick plywood, make the mold according to the diagram. It is divided into 4 parts: the base, the border, the central isle and the lid. Make sure to drill in 3 detractors for the correct alignment of the cover to the molding.
−
Il se décompose en 4 parties: le socle, la bordure, l'îlot central et le couvercle. Bien penser à percer 3 détrompeurs pour le bon alignement du couvercle au moulage.
 
  
−
* Visser/coller la bordure et l’îlot central sur le socle.
+
* Screw/glue the border and central isle to the base.
  
−
* Dessiner l'emplacement de chaque bobine dans le moule. Il est possible de s'aider du gabarit précédemment réalisé.
+
* Mark the location of every coil in the mould. The previously made template can be used.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_moule_stator_eclat_.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_moule_stator_eclat_.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_moule_stator_emboit_.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_moule_stator_emboit_.jpg
Ligne 447 : Ligne 446 :
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Génératrice, stator: Préparation du moulage
+
|Step_Title=Generator, stator: Preparation of the molding.
−
|Step_Content='''Remarque''': Cette étape fait intervenir des éléments dangereux (résines, fibres, etc) Porter des gants latex et lunettes de protection jusqu'à la fin du moulage.
+
|Step_Content='''Notes''': This step includes use of dangerous elements (resin, fibers, etc. ) Make sure to put on the latex gloves and safety glasses till the end of the molding.
  
−
* Préparer 2 disques de fibre de verre ayant la forme du moule puis les mettre de coté. Prévoir une marge de diamètre au niveau de l’îlot (cf photo).
+
* Prepare 2 disks of glass fiber of the shape of the mold and keep them aside. Provide a diameter margin at the isle level. (See photo)
  
−
* Préparer les 3 tiges filetée en les vissant sur le berceau. Bien régler le parallélisme des tiges.
+
* Prepare the 3 threaded rods by screwing them on the cradle. Adjust the parallelism of the rod well.
  
−
* A l'aide de cire de démoulage/wax, bien cirer l'ensemble du moule, intérieur/extérieur, le couvercle intérieur/extérieur, une dizaine de vis qui serviront à fixer le couvercle ainsi que 3 pions pour les détrompeurs.
+
* With the help of the wax, wax the entire mold, interior/exterior, the interior/exterior  of the cover, all the screws which keeps the cover fixed and the 3 pawns of the detractor.
  
−
* Préparer 2 bacs de 150g de résine polyester et 2 seringues de 2,25ml du catalyseur associé.
+
* Prepare 2 container of 150g of polyester resin and 2 syringes of 2.25ml of the catalyst.
  
−
* Préparer un bac de 300g de résine mélangée avec 150g de talc ainsi qu'une seringue de 4,5ml de catalyseur.
+
* Prepare a container of 300g of mixed resin with 150g of talc also a syringe of 4.5ml of catalyst.
  
−
* Préparer l'ensemble du montage bobine, débridé du gabarit, afin qu'il soit prêt à installer dans le moule.
+
* Prepare the complete mounting of the coil, unbridled from the template, so that it will ready to be installed in the mold.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_43.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_43.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_91.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_91.JPG
Ligne 468 : Ligne 467 :
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Génératrice, stator: Moulage
+
|Step_Title=Generator, stator: Molding.
−
|Step_Content=* Verser la seringue associée dans un des bacs de 150g de résine et mélanger énergiquement.
+
|Step_Content=* Pour the associated syringe into the 300g resin container + talc. Mix vigorously.
  
−
* Verser un peu de cette résine dans le fond du moule.
+
* Pour some of this resin into the bottom of the mold.
  
−
* Plaquer au fond du moule un des deux disques de fibre de verre et bien l'imbiber de résine.
+
* Put one of the two glass fiber discs to the bottom of the mold and soak well with resin.
  
−
* Placer soigneusement le montage des bobines dans le moule. Chaque bobine doit être bien à sa place et aucun fil ne doit dépasser du moule. '''C'est une étape délicate'''. finir de verser le premier bac de résine.
+
* Place the mounting of the coil in the mold carefully. Every coil must be placed correctly in its place and no wire should come out of the mold. '''It's a delicate step'''. Pour the first container of resin completely.
  
−
* Verser la seringue associée dans le bac de 300g de résine + talc. Mélanger énergiquement.
+
* Pour the associated syringe into the 300g resin container + talc. Mix vigorously.
  
−
* Verser le contenu sur le montage.
+
* Pour the content on the assembly.
  
−
'''Remarque''': le talc permet non seulement de charger la résine avec un matériau peu cher mais également de diffuser la chaleur lors du séchage de la résine et durant le fonctionnement futur de l'éolienne afin de ne pas endommager le stator.
+
'''Notes''': the talc not only charges the resin using a cheaper material but also diffuses the heat during the drying of the resin and also during the future operation of the wind turbine without damaging the stator.
  
−
* Positionner le second disque de fibre de verre et bien l'imbiber.
+
* Position the second disk of glass fiber and soak it well.
  
−
* Préparer et verser le dernier bac de résine. Il vaut mieux avoir un surplus de résine que pas assez.
+
* Prepare and pour the last container of resin. It is better to have extra resin.
  
−
* Positionner le couvercle grâce aux détrompeurs et le brider grace aux vis cirées.
+
* Position the cover with the help of the detractors and secure them with the waxed screws.
  
−
* Positionner délicatement les tiges filetées  liées au berceau, la partie fendue dans la résine. S'aider d'un foret comme centreur entre l’îlot et le berceau.
+
* Position the threaded rods attached to the cradle delicately, the part split in the resin. Use the drill bit as the center piece between the isle and the cradle.
  
−
* Au besoin, attacher à l'aide d'un colson le câble triphasé pour qu'il sorte correctement du stator.
+
* If necessary, use a clamp to secure the three-phase cable so that it exits the stator correctly.
  
−
* Laisser durcir (cela peut prendre plusieurs heures). puis démouler, ébavurer et vernir ou peindre.
+
Allow to harden (it might take several hours). Then demold, deburr and varnish or paint.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_132.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_132.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_134.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_134.JPG
Ligne 502 : Ligne 501 :
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Génératrice, rotor: Préparation du disque métallique.
+
|Step_Title=Generator, rotor: Preparation of the metallic disk.
−
|Step_Content='''Remarque''': le '''rotor''' est la partie tournante de la génératrice entraînée par l'hélice.
+
|Step_Content='''Note''': The '''rotor''' is the rotating part of the generator triggered by the propeller.
  
−
* Se munir d'un disque en acier épaisseur 6mm, si possible galvanisé, de diamètre 230mm et le préparer selon schéma. Les 4 trous de 12mm de diamètre sont répartis sur chaque quart du cercle de 100mm de diamètre.
+
* Use a 6mm thick steel disk, if possible galvanized, of diameter 230mm and prepare it according to the diagram. The 4 holes of 12mm diameter are distributed on each quarter of the circle of 100mm diameter.
  
−
'''Remarques''':
+
'''Notes''':
  
−
1) Il est '''impératif''' que le disque soit en '''acier''' pour qu'il puisse conduire les champs magnétiques. Cela ne fonctionnera pas avec de l'alu ou de l'inox par exemple.
+
1) It is '''important''' that the disk is made of '''steel''' so that it can conduct the magnetic fields. It will not work with aluminum or stainless steel.
  
−
2) Il peut être plus facile de se fournir le disque tout préparé auprès d'artisans qui disposent d'outils de découpe précise (plasma, laser).
+
2) Il can be easier to get the disk prepared from craftsmen who have precise cutting tools (plasma, laser)
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_disque_galva_style.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_disque_galva_style.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.29_-_173.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.29_-_173.JPG
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Génératrice, rotor: Préparation de la cloche du moyeu
+
|Step_Title=Generator, rotor: Preparation of the bell hub.
−
|Step_Content=* Se munir de la cloche du moyeu mise de coté auparavant (cf étape: "Génératrice, stator: Préparation du berceau").
+
|Step_Content=* Use the bell hub which was previously kept aside. ( See step: Generator, stator: Preparation of the cradle)
  
−
* Découper la cloche à la meuleuse de façon à ne garder que la platine plate avec les perçages.
+
* Cut the bell with a grinding machine, so that only the flat plate with the holes remains.
  
−
* Meuler la cloche de telle sorte que le disque en acier puisse s'insérer parfaitement à plat sur les 4 appuis percés. (cf photos)
+
* Cut the bell in a way that the steel disk fits perfectly flat on the 4 drilled supports.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_61.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_61.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_65.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_65.JPG
Ligne 528 : Ligne 527 :
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Génératrice, rotor: Préparation du gabarit
+
|Step_Title=Generator, rotor: Preparation of the template.
−
|Step_Content=* Dans une chute de contreplaqué fin, réaliser le gabarit selon schéma.
+
|Step_Content=* On a piece of thin plywood, make the template according to the diagram
  
−
* Dégraisser le disque en acier avec du dégraissant.
+
* Degrease the steel disk using a degreaser.
  
−
* Se munir de deux boulons de 12mm avec rondelles.
+
* Take two bolts of 12mm with washers.
  
−
* Visser le gabarit sur le disque en acier en intercalant des rondelles.
+
* Screw the template onto the steel disk by inserting the washers.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_gabarit_rotor.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_gabarit_rotor.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.29_-_177.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.29_-_177.JPG
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Génératrice, rotor: Collage des aimants
+
|Step_Title=Generator, rotor: Gluing of magnets
−
|Step_Content='''Remarque''': Cette étape consiste à coller des aimants très puissants sur le disque en acier en '''alternant les pôles des aimants'''. Si l'alternance n'est pas respectée, la génératrice ne fonctionnera pas et risque des dommages.
+
|Step_Content='''Note''': This step consists of gluing together strong magnets on the steel disk by  '''alternating the poles of the magnets'''. If the alternation is not respected, the generator will not function and there is risk of damage.
  
−
* Se munir de [https://www.supermagnete.fr/aimants-bloc-neodyme/parallelepipede-magnetique-46mm-x-30mm-x-10mm-neodyme-n40-nickele_Q-46-30-10-N 8 aimants néodymes] 46mm x 30mm x 10mm.
+
* Have the [https://www.supermagnete.fr/aimants-bloc-neodyme/parallelepipede-magnetique-46mm-x-30mm-x-10mm-neodyme-n40-nickele_Q-46-30-10-N 8 neodymium magnet] 46mm x 30mm x 10mm.
  
−
'''Remarque''': Faire très attention durant la manipulation de ces aimants. Etant très puissants, ils peuvent endommager les appareils électroniques, attirer des objets métalliques en tout genre et pincer très fort. Ils sont également fragiles et peuvent se casser durant les chocs.
+
'''Note''': Be very carefully during the manipulation of these magnets. Being very powerful, they can damage electronic devices, attract all kinds of metal objects and squeeze them very hard.
  
−
* Poser un point de super glue dans une première encoche et coller le premier aimant. Faire attention à ce que l'aimant soit parfaitement calé dans l'encoche.
+
* Apply a dot of super glue on the first notch and stick the first magnet. Make sure that the magnet is perfectly locked in the notch.
  
−
* Prendre un deuxième aimant dans son poing, le positionner au dessus du premier.
+
* Take the second magnet in your hand and place it on top of the first.
  
−
1) S'il y a répulsion, le coller dans l'encoche adjacente en conservant bien ce sens: les 2 aimants ont les polarités positionnées de manière opposée.
+
1) If there is repulsion, stick it in the adjacent notch keeping this direction: the 2 magnets have the polarities positioned in an opposite way.
  
−
2) S'il y a attraction, le retourner dans sa main, vérifier qu'il y a maintenant répulsion, et le coller dans l'encoche adjacente.
+
2) If there is attraction, turn it over in your hand, check if there is repulsion now and then stick it in the adjacent notch.
  
−
* Appliquer la même procédure avec tous les aimants. Une fois terminé, les faces visibles des aimants sont alternées comme suit: 1) Nord , 2) Sud, 3) Nord, 4) Sud, 5) Nord, 6) Sud, 7) Nord, 8) Sud ou inversement.
+
* Apply the same procedure with all the magnets. Once finished, the faces visible of the magnets will be alternate as follows: 1) North, 2)South,3)North, 4)South 5)North, 8)South or inverse.
  
−
* Laisser sécher puis retirer le gabarit.
+
* Let it dry then remove the template.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.29_-_178.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.29_-_178.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.29_-_199.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.29_-_199.JPG
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Génératrice, rotor: Préparation du moule
+
|Step_Title=Generator, rotor: Preparation of the mold.
−
|Step_Content=* Réaliser le moule du rotor dans du contreplaqué de 16mm d'épaisseur pour le socle et la bordure, le couvercle peut être moins épais. Les diamètres des trous dans le couvercle doivent permettre le passage d'écrou pour vis de 12mm.
+
|Step_Content=* Make a rotor mold out of a 16mm thick plywood for the base and the border, the cover can be thinner. The diameter of the holes in the cover should allow the passage of the nut for the 12mm screws.
  
−
* Visser/coller le socle et la bordure ensemble.
+
* Screw/glue the base and the border together.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_moule_rotor.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_moule_rotor.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_moule_rotor_ensemble.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_moule_rotor_ensemble.jpg
Ligne 571 : Ligne 570 :
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Génératrice, rotor: Préparation du moulage
+
|Step_Title=Generator, rotor: Preparation of the molding.
−
|Step_Content='''Remarque''': Cette étape fait intervenir des éléments dangereux (résines, fibres, etc) Porter des gants latex et lunettes de protection jusqu'à la fin du moulage.
+
|Step_Content='''Notes''': This step includes use of dangerous elements (resin, fibers, etc. ) Make sure to put on the latex gloves and safety glasses till the end of the molding.
  
−
* Préparer 1 disque de fibre de verre ayant la forme du moule puis le mettre de coté.
+
* Prepare 1 disk of glass fiber of the shape of the mold then keep it aside.
  
−
* A l'aide de cire de démoulage/wax, bien cirer l'ensemble du moule, intérieur/extérieur, le couvercle intérieur/extérieur ainsi que 2 boulons de 12mm assez longs pour traverser l'ensemble du moule.
+
* Using mold release wax/wax, wax the entire mold, inside/outside, the internal/external cover and also the two 12mm bolts which are long enough to pass through the mold completely.
  
−
* Préparer 2 bacs de 150g de résine polyester et 2 seringues de 2,25ml du catalyseur associé.
+
Prepare two 150g container of polyester resin and two 2.25ml syringes of the associated catalyst.
  
−
* Préparer un bac de 300g de résine mélangée avec 150g de talc ainsi qu'une seringue de 4,5ml de catalyseur.
+
* Prepare a container of 300g of mixed resin with 150g of talc also a syringe of 4.5ml of catalyst.
  
−
* Positionner le disque en acier dans le moule, positionner l'ilot par dessus et visser l'ensemble avec les boulons graissés.
+
* Position the steel disk in the mold, place the isle on the top and screw the assembly with the greased bolts.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_57.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_57.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_103.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_103.JPG
Ligne 588 : Ligne 587 :
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Génératrice, rotor: Moulage
+
|Step_Title=Generator, rotor: Molding.
−
|Step_Content=* Verser la seringue associée dans un des bacs de 150g de résine et mélanger énergiquement.
+
|Step_Content=* Pour the associated syringe into the 150g resin container et mix vigorously.
  
−
* Verser cette résine dans le moule.
+
* Pour this resin in the mold.
  
−
* De la même manière, préparer et verser la résine + talc.
+
* In the same way, prepare and pour the resin + talc.
  
−
* Positionner le cercle de fibre et bien l'imbiber.
+
* Position the fiber circle and let it soak properly.
  
−
* Au besoin, préparer et verser le dernier bac de résine. Il vaut mieux avoir un surplus de résine qui déborde.
+
* Prepare and pour the last container of resin. It is better to have extra resin that overflows.
  
−
* Positionner le couvercle et poser de lourdes pièces métalliques dessus (cornières, tubes, etc) la force d'attraction des aimants permet de presser le surplus de résine.
+
* Position the cover and put heavy metal parts on it (angles, tubes, etc.) the attraction force of the magnets will press the excess resin.
  
−
* Laisser durcir, démouler, ébavurer et vernir ou peindre.
+
* Let it harden, then demold, deburr and varnish or paint.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_147.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_147.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_153.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_153.JPG
Ligne 609 : Ligne 608 :
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
 
|Step_Title=Structure, Nacelle
 
|Step_Title=Structure, Nacelle
−
|Step_Content=* Se munir de:
+
|Step_Content=* Equip yourself with:
  
−
1) Une cornière de 206mm (50x50x6mm).
+
* An angle of 206mm (50x50x6mm).
  
−
2) Un tube diamètre ext 42,2mm, longueur 100mm: '''Pivot éolienne'''.
+
2) A tube of external diameter of 42.2, length 100mm: '''Pivot wind turbine'''.
  
−
3) Un tube diamètre ext 33,4mm, longueur 150mm: '''Pivot Safran'''.
+
3) A tube of external diameter of 33.4mm, length 150mm: '''Rudder Pivot'''.
  
−
4) Le '''berceau''' précédemment réalisé.
+
4) The '''cradle''' previously made.
  
−
* Préparer la cornière selon schéma.
+
* Prepare the angle according to the diagram.
  
−
* Souder le tube pivot éolienne sous la cornière, bien centré avec le trou de 14mm et bien perpendiculaire à la cornière.
+
* Solder the wind turbine pivot tube under the angle, centered with the 14mm hole and perpendicular to the angle.
  
−
* Souder le tube pivot safran à l'arrière de la cornière (cf photo).
+
* Solder the rudder pivot tube at the back of the angle (See photo)
  
−
* Souder le berceau en bout de cornière en centrant le centre du berceau sur le point A. Pour la soudure, il est nécessaire de sacrifier un des 4 trous permettant la fixation de la fusée. Ce n'est pas un problème tant que tous les autres restent bien accessible.
+
* Solder the cradle at the end of the angle by centering the center of the cradle on the point A. For the soldering, it is necessary to sacrifice one of the four holes allowing the fixation of the spindle. It is not a problem though since all the other holes are very well accessible.
  
−
'''Remarque''': La chaleur dégagée par la soudure peut avoir tendance à faire travailler le métal, déformer les pièces et les positions choisies. Pour éviter ce problème, réaliser quelques points de soudure à quelques endroits stratégiques sur le périmètre de la soudure puis tirer le cordon soudure.
+
'''Note''': The heat released by the solder have a tendency to work the metal, deform the pieces and their positions. To avoid this problem, make a few weld points at a few strategic locations around the perimeter of the weld and then pull the weld bead.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_nacelle_dessus.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_nacelle_dessus.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_nacelle_cot_.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_nacelle_cot_.jpg
Ligne 636 : Ligne 635 :
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Structure, Safran
+
|Step_Title=Structure, Rudder
−
|Step_Content=* Se munir de:
+
|Step_Content=* Equip yourself with:
  
−
1) Un tube diamètre ext 42,2mm, longueur 130mm: '''Pivot safran'''.
+
1) A tube of external diameter of 42.2, length 130mm: '''Rudder Pivot'''.
  
−
2) Un fer plat 50 x 50 x 6mm: '''Couvercle du pivot safran'''.
+
2) An iron plat of 50 x 50 x 6mm: '''Cover of the rudder pivot'''.
  
−
3) Un tube diamètre ext 33,4mm, longueur 700mm: '''Queue du safran'''.
+
3) A tube of external diameter of 33.4mm, length 700mm: '''Tail rudder'''.
  
−
4) Une cornière 30 x 30 x 5, longueur 250mm: '''Support safran'''.
+
4) An angle of 30 x 30 x 5, length 250mm: '''Rudder Support'''.
  
−
5) Un contreplaqué taillé selon les envies de chacun, d'épaisseur 6mm et de '''0,1m² de surface'''. (par exemple un triangle rectangle de hauteur 300mm et base 600mm): le '''Safran'''.
+
5) A plywood cut according to the desires of each, thickness 6mm and ''0.1m ² of surface'' (for example a right-angled triangle of height 300mm and base 600mm): the ''Rudder''.
  
−
* Sur le '''pivot safran''' ouvrir une encoche selon schéma.
+
* On the '''rudder pivot''' open one notch according to the diagram.
  
−
* Souder le '''couvercle''' sur l'extrémité opposé à l'encoche du '''pivot safran'''.
+
* Solder the '''cover''' on the outside, opposite to the notch of the '''rudder pivot'''.
  
−
* Sur le tube '''queue de safran''', réaliser une [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDD-EVj7zIc gueule de loup] en s'aidant d'un patron permettant une soudure à 110° du '''pivot safran'''.
+
* On the tube '''Tail rudder''', make a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDD-EVj7zIc tube notch] with the help of a pattern allowing a 110° welding of the '''rudder pivot'''.
  
−
* Percer la cornière '''support''' en 3 points permettant l'attache du '''Safran''' avec des boulons de diamètre 6mm.
+
* Drill the angle '''support''' at 3 points to attach the '''rudder''' with bolts of 6mm diameter.
  
−
* Souder perpendiculairement la cornière '''support''' en bout de '''queue de safran'''.
+
* Weld the angle '''support''' perpendicularly at the end of the '''Tail rudder'''
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_tube_pivot_safran.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_tube_pivot_safran.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_198.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.08.31_-_198.JPG
Ligne 666 : Ligne 665 :
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Assemblage, Génératrice
+
|Step_Title=Assembly, Generator
−
|Step_Content=* Visser la fusée du moyeu sur le berceau de la nacelle.
+
|Step_Content=* Screw the spindle of the bell hub on the cradle of the nacelle
  
−
* Visser un écrou sur chaque tige du stator.
+
* Screw a bolt on every rod of the stator.
  
−
* Visser le stator sur le berceau.
+
* Screw the stator on the cradle.
  
−
* Préparer 4 tiges filetées diamètre 12mm, longueur 140mm. (cf méthode: étape "Génératrice, stator: Préparation tiges filetées stator").
+
* Prepare 4 threaded rods of12mm diameter, 140mm length . (See method: Step "Generator, stator: Preparation threaded stator rods").
  
−
* Fixer le rotor sur la cloche du moyeu avec les 4 tiges filetées et 16 écrous.
+
* Fix the rotor on the bell hub with the 4 threaded rods and16 nuts.
  
−
* Emboîter la cloche du moyeu sur la fusée en repositionnant soigneusement les roulements à billes et écrous de serrage (à serrer au maximum puis desserrer d'un quart de tour). Le système doit tourner librement.
+
* Fit the bell hub onto the spindle, carefully repositioning the ball bearings and lock nuts (tighten to the maximum and then loosen a quarter turn). The system must turn freely.
  
−
* Ajuster l'écart entre le rotor et le stator en jouant avec les écrous du stator. L'espace doit être d'environ 1mm.
+
* Adjust the gap between the rotor and the stator by adjusting the nuts of the stator. The gap should be about 1mm.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.09.01_-_116.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.09.01_-_116.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.09.01_-_122.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.09.01_-_122.JPG
Ligne 687 : Ligne 686 :
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Assemblage final et test de production
+
|Step_Title=The final assembly and the production test.
−
|Step_Content=* Positionner la nacelle sur un mat d'essai.
+
|Step_Content=* Position the nacelle on a test mast.
  
−
* A l'aide d'une personne, faire tourner la génératrice à 1 tour/seconde. Il est possible d'utiliser un métronome. Régler un voltmètre sur alternatif et mesurer la tension entre chaque phase. La valeur doit être proche de 1,9V. Si ce n'est pas le cas, vérifier l'écart entre stator et rotor.
+
* With the help of a person, turn the generator at 1 turn/second. A metronome can be used. Set a voltmeter to AC and measure the voltage between each phase. The value should be close to 1.9V. If it is not, check the gap between stator and rotor
  
−
* Emboîter l'hélice, face extrados vers la génératrice, puis visser un écrou en intercalant une rondelle sur chaque tige filetée. Il est possible de s'aider de serres-joints pour l’emboîtement.
+
* Fit the propeller, the face down towards the generator, then screw a nut with a washer on each threaded rod. It is possible to use clamps for the interlocking.
  
−
* Installer le safran sur le pivot.
+
* Install the rudder on the pivot.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.09.01_-_188.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_2017.09.01_-_188.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.09.01_-_205_2_.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Eolienne_200W_2017.09.01_-_205_2_.JPG
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Équilibrage des pales.
+
|Step_Title=Balancing of the blades.
 
|Step_Content=
 
|Step_Content=
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Graissage de l'éolienne
+
|Step_Title=Lubrication of the wind turbine
 
|Step_Content=
 
|Step_Content=
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Installation redresseur 12V continue
+
|Step_Title=12V DC rectifier installation
−
|Step_Content='''Remarque''': Afin de pouvoir chargé une batterie 12V, il est d'abord nécessaire de transformer le courant alternatif produit par chaque phase en un courant continu.
+
|Step_Content="'Note"': To charge the 12V battery, it is necessary to transform the AC produced by each phase into a DC.
  
−
* Se munir d'un redresseur de tension triphasé alternatif à monophasé continu.
+
* Use a three-phase AC to single-phase DC voltage rectifier.
  
−
* Souder chacune des phases du câble de sortie sur chaque borne d'entrée du redresseur.
+
* Solder each phase of the output cable to each input terminal of the rectifier.
  
−
* Souder un câble monophasé sur les 2 bornes de sortie du redresseur.
+
* Solder a single-phase cable on the 2 output terminals of the rectifier.
  
−
* Protéger le système dans un boitier étanche et le fixer sur le corps de l'éolienne.
+
Protect the system in a waterproof box and fix it on the body of the wind turbine.
  
−
'''Remarque''': Il sera nécessaire d'installer un contrôleur de charge entre l'éolienne et la batterie.
+
"'Note"': It will be necessary to install a charge controller between the wind turbine and the battery.
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
−
|Step_Title=Contenu pédagogique à télécharger
+
|Step_Title=Educational content to download
−
|Step_Content=Vous pouvez télécharger une fiche pédagogique créée par le Low-tech Lab dans la partie "Fichiers" du tutoriel (onglet au niveau de la section "Outils-Matériaux").
+
|Step_Content=You can download an educational file created by Low-tech lab in the "files" tab of the tutorial (tab under the section Tools & Materials)
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_Piggott.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_00=Eolienne_200W_Piggott.JPG
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Notes
 
{{Notes
−
|Notes=* Pack tutoriel réalisé par Camille Duband et Pierre-Alain Lévêque, équipe Low-tech Lab, Septembre 2017.
+
|Notes=* Pack tutorials created by Camille Duband and Pierre-Alain Lévêque, Low-tech Lab team, September 2017.
  
−
* Les éoliennes developpé par Hugh Piggott vont de 200W à 2000W.
+
*The wind turbines developed by Hugh Piggott range from 200W to 2000W.
  
−
* Site de [http://scoraigwind.co.uk/ Hugh Piggott], inventeur de l'éolienne, informations en Anglais.
+
* Website of [http://scoraigwind.co.uk/ Hugh Piggott], inventor of the wind turbine, information in English.
  
−
* Site de [http://www.tripalium.org/ Tripalium], pour y trouver informations et stages de construction, en Français.
+
*Website [https://pureselfmade.com/ PureSelfMade] of Jonathan Schreiber, co-author of the book "[https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/wind-turbine-do-it-yourself-book-by-pureselfmade#/ New plans for building the Ferrite Generator Wind Turbines]" with Hugh Piggott.
  
−
* [http://www.tripalium.org/manuel Lien pour l'achat du manuel tripalium] pour une construction complète de l'éolienne à la distribution électrique sur toute la gamme d'éoliennes.
+
*Website of  [http://www.tripalium.org/ Tripalium], to find information and construction courses, in French.
  
−
* [https://eolienne.f4jr.org/eolienne_etude_theorique Etude théorique sur l'éolien]
+
*[http://www.tripalium.org/manuel Link for the purchase of the tripalium manual] for a complete construction from the wind turbine to the electrical distribution on the whole range of wind turbines.
  
−
* [https://alizes.jimdo.com/monter-un-projet/eolienne-piggott/ Mesure rendement d'éolienne Piggott]
+
*[https://eolienne.f4jr.org/eolienne_etude_theorique Theoretical study on wind energy]
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*[https://alizes.jimdo.com/monter-un-projet/eolienne-piggott/ Piggott wind turbine performance measurement]
 
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Version actuelle datée du 8 juin 2023 à 15:10

Tutorial de avatarLow-tech Lab | Catégories : Énergie

avatarLow-tech Lab

Eolienne 200W NIKON - 2017.09.02 - 22.JPG
https://wiki.lowtechlab.org/wiki/Eolienne_200W/en
Dernière modification le 08/06/2023


Difficulté
Difficile
Durée
20 jour(s)
Coût
350 EUR (€)

Description

The hand-crafted 200W, 4 ft wingspan Piggott wind turbine.

The hand-crafted 200W, 4 ft wingspan Piggott wind turbine.

Difficulté
Difficile
Durée
20 jour(s)
Coût
350 EUR (€)
Autres langues :
English • ‎français

Sommaire

Sommaire

Licence : Attribution-ShareAlike (CC BY-SA)

Introduction

Watch HERE the video tutorial

This tutorial is based on the work of Scotsman Hugh Piggott Hugh Piggott. It was directed with the help of Aurélie Guibert, a member of the Tripalium Network in Valence, France.

It is about building a wind turbine of maximum power of 200W in 12V for a wingspan of 1m 20. It is designed for low power requirements such as lighting an LED or charging of a laptop.

The distribution part of the electricity and the matting are not given in detail here.

The Wind

The power that the wind produces est proportional to the cube of its speed. For example, the wind turbine in this tutorial receives in its propeller 0.7W when the wind blows at 1m/s and a thousand times more at 10m/s.

To calculate it: P= 1/2 x Rho x S x v^3 with P: power (W), Rho: density of the air (about 1.23 kg/m 3), S: Surface swept by the propeller (m²), v: velocity of wind (m/s)

It is therefore necessary to study the land where we install the wind turbine to see if the wind blows relatively constant and with sufficient speed for producing minimum energy.

Like every other system, a part of energy is lost by the wind turbine. In theory, a wind turbine can never transform more than 60% of the energy that the wind provides, this is the Betz limit. In practice, with the type of wind turbine developed in this tutorial, the efficiency can reach up to 35%.

The location

Generally, it is better to have land free from trees and dwellings. The wind turbines of the same height placed in cities or on the gables of the houses produce much less energy because of the wind's turbulence. Similarly, the wind is more constant and powerful on an altitude, therefore it is preferred to install a small wind turbine at height than a big wind turbine at a low altitude.

Cost

Although it is a Low-tech, the cost of constructing this wind turbine is around 350€ if all the materials are bought. Including the matting and the electronics, the cost is around 2000€. It can be interesting to install it in off-grid areas with a view to autonomy. In the case of a network connection, it is not financially attractive.

Video d'introduction

Matériaux

List of materials required for the propeller, refer to the chapters for details

  • Scraps of plywood
  • Plank section minimum 95mm x 35mm, length 1m80. (red cedar or douglas or larch or spruce )
  • Plywood 9mm
  • Some screws of diameter 5mm, length 30mm.

List of materials required for the generator, refer to the chapters for details

  • Metal disc of thickness 8mm and diameter 140mm.
  • Rear wheel hub of golf, corsa, polo or Ibiza.
  • 25cm of threaded rods with diameter 12mm.
  • Pack of nuts of 12mm.
  • 30cm threaded rods of diameter 10mm, 4 nuts of 10mm.
  • Scraps of metal tube and angle.
  • 4 nails of diameter 6mm.
  • 1.5kg of enamelled copper wire, diameter 1.4mm.
  • Electrical scotch.
  • Heat-shrink tubes
  • Plywood 9mm et 16mm.
  • Glass fiber cloth (approximately 300g/m²)
  • Polyester resin, associated catalyst
  • Talc.
  • Mould release wax
  • 8 neodymium magnets.
  • Steel disc of diameter 230mm, thickness 6mm.
  • Bolts 12mm.

List of materials required for the steel structure, refer to the chapters for details

  • Angle of 206mm (50x50x6mm).
  • Tube of outer diameter 42.2mm, length 100mm.
  • Tube of outer diameter 33.4mm, length 150mm.
  • Tube of outer diameter 42.2mm, length 130mm.
  • Iron plate 50 x 50 x 6mm.
  • Tube of outer diameter 33.4mm, length 700mm.
  • Angle 30 x 30 x 5, length 250mm.
  • 60 cm of threaded rods with diameter 12mm.

Outils

List indicative of equipment, refer to the chapters for details

  • Saws (hand, jigsaw, circular).
  • Pencils, markers.
  • Measuring tape, ruler, try-square, compass.
  • Clamps
  • Palm plane, wood chisels, spokeshave, hand planes.
  • Drill, screwdriver, metal and wood drill up to 14mm, a Hole Cutter of diameter 60mm.
  • Grinding machine, cutting blades, grinding discs, gloves and safety glasses.
  • Welding station.
  • Soldering iron, tin.
  • electronic scale.
  • graduated syringes.
  • Latex gloves.
  • Plastic trays,
  • Pair of scissors.
  • Voltmeter

Eolienne_200W_Affiche_EoliennePigott_FR.pdf

Étape 1 - Propeller: The pattern

  • Draw and cut the blade pattern in a board.
  • Note on each side of the pattern, the one which corresponds the lower surface and the one which corresponds the upper surface.

Note : The lower surface is the side of the blade which receives the wind, the upper surface is the back side of the blade.

Eolienne 200W patron 2.jpg
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.28 - 19.JPG



Étape 2 - Propeller: drawing and cutting of the blades.

  • Choose a plank of dimension minimum 95mm x 35mm

Notes:

1) The wood should be imputrescible, light-weighted and easy to work with. For example, red cedar, Oregon pine, spruce, larch, douglas fir may be suitable.

2) For this tutorial, the section of the red cedar plank is 150mm x 45mm.

3) The parameter which determines the energy transmitted by the wind at the propeller is the length of the blade and not it’s breadth.

  • With the help of the blade pattern, lower side visible, mark the location for the first blade.

Notes:

1) Put the knots and defects of the wood at the end of the blade, so that the thinnest part does not become fragile (middle-end of the blade).

2) Select the leading edge ridge as neatly as possible. This ridge will not be altered during the cutting of the blade.

3) Extend the blade tip pattern by 4-5 cm to maintain a margin in case of damage.

  • Do the same for the 2 other blades and cut the blades.

Note: When using a circular saw for cutting, be careful to place the width of the blade always on the outside of the line.

  • Rectify the left of the blades if necessary with the help of a plane.
  • Fix the 3 blades together with the help of the clamps and equalize all the irregular planes. All the 3 blades needs to be strictly identical.
  • Mark the position of the leading edge ridge for it to stay where it is. It will be its landmark.
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.28 - 67.JPG
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Eolienne 200W 2017.08.28 - 60.JPG
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Étape 3 - Propeller: Sculpture of the lower surface of the blades

  • According to the diagram, draw the 4 sections along the blade.
  • According to the diagram, draw the area of the inner surface to be sculpted.
  • For easy reference, hatch/shade the area of the wood to be eliminated.
  • With the help of a plane, chisels, and a spokeshave for the finishing, cut off the hatched/shaded part of the wood.

Note: To guarantee good dimensions, the sculpture must come as close as possible to the pencil stroke without erasing it.

  • With the help of a scale, check the evenness of all sections of the sculpted lower surface of the blade.
  • Once the 3 blades are finished, check if all the dimensions are equal on multiple points on the 4 sections drawn previously.
Eolienne 200W pale 1 style.jpg
Eolienne 200W pale 2 style.jpg
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.29 - 17.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.29 - 32.JPG
Eolienne 200W pale 3 style.jpg
Fichier:Eolienne 200W dt.p le.eolienne.pdf

Étape 4 - Propeller: Sculpture of the lower surface of the blades

  • Position the blade in such a way that it's upper surface is visible.
  • According to the diagram, draw the point A. It is on 2/3 of the width of the blade's base from the trailing edge. This point is the center of rotation of the propeller.
  • Then draw the point B on the leading edge by using a compass centered in A the 2/3 of the blade base. Then join AB.

Note: The segment AB form an angle of 120° with the base of the blade, which will be later required for the assembly of the blades.

  • According to the diagram, draw a circle of radius 100mm centered at A. The surface of this portion of the disc should be left intact and levelled until the end for proper blade assembly.

Note: In the case of this tutorial, the point B is situated on the perimeter of the circle. This is not always the case depending on the width of the plank.

  • According to the diagram, draw the thickness of the blade on the irregular planes.

Note: According to the thickness of the plank, it might appear that the thickness is not 17mm in section 3. Imagine a point in the space for the thickness 17mm on the rear edge on this section 3.

  • Name C to the intersection between the point traced for the thickness and the base of the blade.
  • According to the diagram, then draw the thickness of the blade at the front edge respecting the same thickness as that of the irregular plane. Connect the point of the section 3 to the point B.
  • On the upper surface side, connect B and C to close the area to be sculpted.
  • For easy reference, hatch/shade the area of the wood to be eliminated.
  • With the help of a plane, chisels, and a spokeshave for the finishing, cut off the hatched/shaded part of the wood.

Note: To guarantee good dimensions, the sculpture must come as close as possible to the pencil stroke without erasing it.

  • With the help of a scale, check the evenness of all sections of the sculpted lower surface of the blade.
  • Once the 3 blades are finished, check if all the dimensions are equal on multiple points on the 4 sections drawn previously.
Eolienne 200W pale 5 style m.jpg
Eolienne 200W pale 6 style.jpg
Eolienne 200W pale 4 style.jpg
Eolienne 200W pale 7 style m.jpg
Eolienne 200W pale 8 style.jpg
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.30 - 41.JPG

Étape 5 - Propeller: Blade profile finalization

  • On the upper surface, draw a line representing 30% of the width of the blade and a line representing 50% of the width of the blade from the leading edge.
  • Check, with the help of the caliper compass, the thickness of each section on the line of 30%. Compare the 3 blades and adjust the thicker ones if they are not exactly identical.

Note: The 30% line corresponds to the final thickness of the blade, which is why we check the dimensions at this precise location.

  • From the 50% line to the rear edge, sculpt a flat surface leaving a thickness of less than 1 mm on the rear edge.

Note: Be careful not to crack the rear edge as it is very delicate area.

  • From the leading edge to the 30% line, sculpt a beautiful rounding using a hand plane, spokeshaven or palm plane. The angle of the leading edge should be approximately 60°.
  • When these two areas are complete, break the remaining 50% line block to achieve a continuous profile from leading edge to trailing edge. The only line still visible in pencil should be the 30% line.

Once the work on the 3 blades is completed:

  • Saw the blades at 600mm to remove the margin left at the beginning of the blade tip with a Japanese saw.
  • Saw the section marked as AB on the base of the blade to the interlock the 3 blades at 120°.

Note: The angle should be slightly less than 120° in order to be able to rotate the blades slightly during assembly.

Eolienne 200W 2017.08.30 - 42.JPG
Eolienne 200W pale 11 style.jpg
Eolienne 200W 2017.09.01 - 27m.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.09.01 - 36m.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.09.01 - 41mm.JPG

Étape 6 - Propeller: Construction of assembly supports

  • According to the diagram, make a disc and its tracks/holes in a plywood of thickness 9mm. The diameter of the circles for the positioning of the pre-drilling of the screws (for 5mm screws) is fixed arbitrarily. 3 zones at 120° are defined. This disc is used to assemble the propeller on the outer side.
  • According to the diagram, make a triangle and its tracks/holes in a plywood of thickness 9mm. Each blade's base, on the outer surface of the triangle, is represented on the triangle. The outline of the central circle does not allow the pre-drilled to enter this area which will subsequently accommodate threaded rods. The lines parallel to the sides for pre-drills (for 5mm screws) are randomly defined. This triangle is used to assemble the propeller on the inner surface.
Eolienne 200W disque cp 1 style m.jpg
Eolienne 200W triangle cp 1 style m.jpg
Eolienne 200W 2017.09.01 - 44 2 m.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.09.01 - 44 m.JPG


Étape 7 - Propeller: Assembly

  • Place the blade on the propeller on a good flat surface with the outer surface side visible.
  • Place the disc in the center of the plywood, with the help of a drill with a centering pin.
  • With 3 measuring tape and 3 people, position the circle in such a way that the tip of the blade should be equidistant from the centering pin. The tip of the blade here means the tip of the leading edge.
  • Once it is placed correctly in the center, maintain the circle's position and screw-in one screw for each blade so that it can still pivot.
  • Then adjust the distance between every tip of the blade with a measuring tape.
  • Hold the position and then screw-in all the screws.
  • Screw-in the triangle on the side intrados while taking care to place the right side of the triangle so that the pre-drills are in front of the blade foot.
  • Expand the 4 holes of 12mm on the plywood disc along the entire propeller. Use a square to ensure vertical holes.

Note: To help the propeller to fit-in on the rest of the wind turbine, it is possible to enlarge the holes of 12mm in 14mm on the thickness of the triangle and the blades, without touching the diameter 12mm of the disc.

  • With an hole cutter of 60mm diameter, cut a cylinder of 30mm deep from the side extrados.
Eolienne 200W 2017.09.01 - 52.JPG
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Eolienne 200W 2017.09.01 - 56.JPG
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Étape 8 - Generator, stator: Preparation of the cradle.

  • Take a metallic disc of diameter 140mm and thickness 8mm.
  • According to the diagram, drill holes at 12mm.

Note: For a precise hole, point the center with a pin, pre-drill with a drill of small diameter and then at 12mm. Choose a rotation speed adapted to material and diameter of drill. Lubricate well during drilling.

  • Take a rear wheel hub of Golf, Corsa, Polo or Ibiza, it can be recovered from a scrapped car. Separate the part that attaches to the car (spindle) and the rotating part (a bell-shaped part) while careful putting aside the nuts and ball bearings.
  • Draw a circle of radius slightly greater than 40mm on the metallic disc to center the spindle's base on the cradle.

Fix the two part temporarily with a few soldering points. Make the 4 drills across the base of the spindle and the cradle.

Note: If the 4 initial screws of the spindle are in good condition, they can be recovered by drilling only the cradle and screwing directly into the base. In this case, care should be taken that the original threading should not get damaged (which is a mechanical threading and cannot be used with other screws). It is sometimes necessary to shorten these screws so as to avoid problems during assembly.

  • Drill the center of the cradle with a small drill (approx 3mm). This drilling will be used when the stator is cast.
Eolienne 200W berceau 1 style.jpg
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.30 - 109m.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.31 - 78.JPG


Étape 9 - Generator, stator: Preparation threaded stator rods

Note: The stator is the fixed part of the generator.

  • Take a threaded rod of 12mm diameter.
  • Cut 3 70mm long rods.

Notes:

1) If a clamp is used to maintain the threaded rod while cutting, wrap the threaded rod in a cloth at the jaws before tightening, to avoid damage to the screw pitch.

2) Before cutting the rod, screw a nut on the part of the rod that will be cut in order to reform the pitch of the screw at the level where it is been cut through the repeating passage of the nut.

  • Make slits to form cross of 10mm deep on one end of each threaded rod.
  • Set aside the cradle and the 3 threaded rods, they will be useful during the molding later.
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.31 - 22.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.31 - 29.JPG



Étape 10 - Generator, stator: Preparation of the coil.

  • Make the coil with the help of the angle, metallic tube, threaded rod/nuts of 10mm diameter, 4 large nails of diameter of 6 and plywood scraps. Follow the dimensions from the diagram while cutting the plywood: the rectangle defined by the 4 large nails on the outer edges should be of dimensions 46mm x 30mm.

Notes: The coils will be wound between the 2 discs of the plywood (thickness minimum 15mm), which are known as "ears". The small plywood rectangle between the two ears is the spacer: which determines the thickness of the coil. The inner shape of the coil is determined by the outer edges of the 4 large nails, this forms a rectangle of 46mm x 30mm. This rectangle corresponds to the dimensions of the magnets that will pass in front.

  • After completing the metal “base” structure of the coiler, cut out both ears and the spacer as shown. Make with drills with precision. Cut a small notch on one of the two ears to catch the copper wire while winding it.

Notes: For the easy slippage of the wire, you can bevel the inner edges of the ears. Make markings with a marker on the edge of both ears to count the turns more easily.

Eolienne 200W 2017.08.28 - 200.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.28 - 201.JPG
Eolienne 200W bobineur 1 stylem.jpg


Étape 11 - Generator, stator: Making of 6 coils.

Notes: The stator is composed of 6 coils made with 76 rounds of 1.4mm diameter enameled copper wire. This allows the generator to produce maximum 200W in 12V without damaging the wires. In order to make 6 coils, 1.5kg of copper wire is required.

  • With the help of one person and a coiler, windup a coil. 1 person can wind up the wire and count the turns precisely, one person can create tension in the wire and assure correct distribution of wire over the thickness of the coiler. If the wire does not have enough tension, the coil will be too wide.
  • Leave a margin of 60cm of the wire before starting to coil the wire and the end as well.
  • Before unmolding, seal the coil with an electrical tape. A ruler can be use to pass the tape between the spacer and the coil, with the help of the large slots on the ears which were created for this purpose.
  • Make 6 coils in total.
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.28 - 220.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.28 - 231.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.28 - 246.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.28 - 277.JPG


Étape 12 - Generator, stator: "Star" mounting

  • Make the template from the diagram on the scrap plywood. Mark the position for the 3 threaded rods at the center and also mark for the centers of the coils. There are 6 coils, the gap between each is 60°.
  • With the help of 6 plywood scraps of approximate 50mm x 25mm, attach each coil to its position on the template. Number each coil from 1 to 6 as shown in the template.

Notes: It is important that all coils are positioned with the coils turning in the same direction, either clockwise or anti-clockwise. If this instruction is not respected, the generator will not function as expected.

  • Link the coils according to the diagram while taking care of letting the center and the placement of the threaded rods free.
  • Connect the inputs of the coils 1,2 et 3: this is the neutral point.

2) Connect the output of 1 to the input of 4.

3) Connect the output of 2 to the input of 5.

4) Connect the output of 3 to the input of 6.

  • Cut the extra wire from each coil.
  • With the help of the cutter, remove the enamel up to 3cm on every wire. The surface of the wire should be clearer and more matte.
  • Twist the wires of each connection.
  • Solder the connections with a soldering iron. For a good solder, heat the area to be soldered then put the tin on the wire so that it melts and fills the gaps.
  • Protect each weld with heat shrink tube.
Eolienne 200W gabarit bobine 1 style.jpg
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.29 - 98.JPG
Eolienne 200W montage etoile couleur.jpg
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.29 - 107 m.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.29 - 117 m.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.29 - 153 m.JPG

Étape 13 - Generator, stator: Three-phase cable

  • Take 60cm of flexible 3-wire cable, 2.5mm².
  • Solder de the ends of the coil 4,5, and 6 forming the 3 phases then protect them with the heat shrinking sleeves. Special attention need to paid to the insulation, the wires can touch each other.
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.29 - 137 m.JPG




Étape 14 - Generator, stator: Making the stator mould

  • In 10 mm thick plywood, make the mold according to the diagram. It is divided into 4 parts: the base, the border, the central isle and the lid. Make sure to drill in 3 detractors for the correct alignment of the cover to the molding.
  • Screw/glue the border and central isle to the base.
  • Mark the location of every coil in the mould. The previously made template can be used.
Eolienne 200W moule stator eclat .jpg
Eolienne 200W moule stator emboit .jpg
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.31 - 36 m.jpg


Étape 15 - Generator, stator: Preparation of the molding.

Notes: This step includes use of dangerous elements (resin, fibers, etc. ) Make sure to put on the latex gloves and safety glasses till the end of the molding.

  • Prepare 2 disks of glass fiber of the shape of the mold and keep them aside. Provide a diameter margin at the isle level. (See photo)
  • Prepare the 3 threaded rods by screwing them on the cradle. Adjust the parallelism of the rod well.
  • With the help of the wax, wax the entire mold, interior/exterior, the interior/exterior of the cover, all the screws which keeps the cover fixed and the 3 pawns of the detractor.
  • Prepare 2 container of 150g of polyester resin and 2 syringes of 2.25ml of the catalyst.
  • Prepare a container of 300g of mixed resin with 150g of talc also a syringe of 4.5ml of catalyst.
  • Prepare the complete mounting of the coil, unbridled from the template, so that it will ready to be installed in the mold.
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.31 - 43.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.31 - 91.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.31 - 93.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.31 - 123.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.31 - 126.JPG

Étape 16 - Generator, stator: Molding.

  • Pour the associated syringe into the 300g resin container + talc. Mix vigorously.
  • Pour some of this resin into the bottom of the mold.
  • Put one of the two glass fiber discs to the bottom of the mold and soak well with resin.
  • Place the mounting of the coil in the mold carefully. Every coil must be placed correctly in its place and no wire should come out of the mold. It's a delicate step. Pour the first container of resin completely.
  • Pour the associated syringe into the 300g resin container + talc. Mix vigorously.
  • Pour the content on the assembly.

Notes: the talc not only charges the resin using a cheaper material but also diffuses the heat during the drying of the resin and also during the future operation of the wind turbine without damaging the stator.

  • Position the second disk of glass fiber and soak it well.
  • Prepare and pour the last container of resin. It is better to have extra resin.
  • Position the cover with the help of the detractors and secure them with the waxed screws.
  • Position the threaded rods attached to the cradle delicately, the part split in the resin. Use the drill bit as the center piece between the isle and the cradle.
  • If necessary, use a clamp to secure the three-phase cable so that it exits the stator correctly.

Allow to harden (it might take several hours). Then demold, deburr and varnish or paint.

Eolienne 200W 2017.08.31 - 132.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.31 - 134.JPG
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Eolienne 200W 2017.09.01 - 3.JPG

Étape 17 - Generator, rotor: Preparation of the metallic disk.

Note: The rotor is the rotating part of the generator triggered by the propeller.

  • Use a 6mm thick steel disk, if possible galvanized, of diameter 230mm and prepare it according to the diagram. The 4 holes of 12mm diameter are distributed on each quarter of the circle of 100mm diameter.

Notes:

1) It is important that the disk is made of steel so that it can conduct the magnetic fields. It will not work with aluminum or stainless steel.

2) Il can be easier to get the disk prepared from craftsmen who have precise cutting tools (plasma, laser)

Eolienne 200W disque galva style.jpg
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.29 - 173.JPG



Étape 18 - Generator, rotor: Preparation of the bell hub.

  • Use the bell hub which was previously kept aside. ( See step: Generator, stator: Preparation of the cradle)
  • Cut the bell with a grinding machine, so that only the flat plate with the holes remains.
  • Cut the bell in a way that the steel disk fits perfectly flat on the 4 drilled supports.
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.31 - 61.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.31 - 65.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.09.01 - 183.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.09.01 - 183 2 .JPG


Étape 19 - Generator, rotor: Preparation of the template.

  • On a piece of thin plywood, make the template according to the diagram
  • Degrease the steel disk using a degreaser.
  • Take two bolts of 12mm with washers.
  • Screw the template onto the steel disk by inserting the washers.
Eolienne 200W gabarit rotor.jpg
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.29 - 177.JPG



Étape 20 - Generator, rotor: Gluing of magnets

Note: This step consists of gluing together strong magnets on the steel disk by alternating the poles of the magnets. If the alternation is not respected, the generator will not function and there is risk of damage.

Note: Be very carefully during the manipulation of these magnets. Being very powerful, they can damage electronic devices, attract all kinds of metal objects and squeeze them very hard.

  • Apply a dot of super glue on the first notch and stick the first magnet. Make sure that the magnet is perfectly locked in the notch.
  • Take the second magnet in your hand and place it on top of the first.

1) If there is repulsion, stick it in the adjacent notch keeping this direction: the 2 magnets have the polarities positioned in an opposite way.

2) If there is attraction, turn it over in your hand, check if there is repulsion now and then stick it in the adjacent notch.

  • Apply the same procedure with all the magnets. Once finished, the faces visible of the magnets will be alternate as follows: 1) North, 2)South,3)North, 4)South 5)North, 8)South or inverse.
  • Let it dry then remove the template.
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.29 - 178.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.29 - 199.JPG



Étape 21 - Generator, rotor: Preparation of the mold.

  • Make a rotor mold out of a 16mm thick plywood for the base and the border, the cover can be thinner. The diameter of the holes in the cover should allow the passage of the nut for the 12mm screws.
  • Screw/glue the base and the border together.
Eolienne 200W moule rotor.jpg
Eolienne 200W moule rotor ensemble.jpg
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.31 - 36 rotor.jpg


Étape 22 - Generator, rotor: Preparation of the molding.

Notes: This step includes use of dangerous elements (resin, fibers, etc. ) Make sure to put on the latex gloves and safety glasses till the end of the molding.

  • Prepare 1 disk of glass fiber of the shape of the mold then keep it aside.
  • Using mold release wax/wax, wax the entire mold, inside/outside, the internal/external cover and also the two 12mm bolts which are long enough to pass through the mold completely.

Prepare two 150g container of polyester resin and two 2.25ml syringes of the associated catalyst.

  • Prepare a container of 300g of mixed resin with 150g of talc also a syringe of 4.5ml of catalyst.
  • Position the steel disk in the mold, place the isle on the top and screw the assembly with the greased bolts.
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.31 - 57.JPG
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.31 - 103.JPG
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Étape 23 - Generator, rotor: Molding.

  • Pour the associated syringe into the 150g resin container et mix vigorously.
  • Pour this resin in the mold.
  • In the same way, prepare and pour the resin + talc.
  • Position the fiber circle and let it soak properly.
  • Prepare and pour the last container of resin. It is better to have extra resin that overflows.
  • Position the cover and put heavy metal parts on it (angles, tubes, etc.) the attraction force of the magnets will press the excess resin.
  • Let it harden, then demold, deburr and varnish or paint.
Eolienne 200W 2017.08.31 - 147.JPG
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Étape 24 - Structure, Nacelle

  • Equip yourself with:
  • An angle of 206mm (50x50x6mm).

2) A tube of external diameter of 42.2, length 100mm: Pivot wind turbine.

3) A tube of external diameter of 33.4mm, length 150mm: Rudder Pivot.

4) The cradle previously made.

  • Prepare the angle according to the diagram.
  • Solder the wind turbine pivot tube under the angle, centered with the 14mm hole and perpendicular to the angle.
  • Solder the rudder pivot tube at the back of the angle (See photo)
  • Solder the cradle at the end of the angle by centering the center of the cradle on the point A. For the soldering, it is necessary to sacrifice one of the four holes allowing the fixation of the spindle. It is not a problem though since all the other holes are very well accessible.

Note: The heat released by the solder have a tendency to work the metal, deform the pieces and their positions. To avoid this problem, make a few weld points at a few strategic locations around the perimeter of the weld and then pull the weld bead.

Eolienne 200W nacelle dessus.jpg
Eolienne 200W nacelle cot .jpg
Eolienne 200W nacelle perspective.jpg
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Étape 25 - Structure, Rudder

  • Equip yourself with:

1) A tube of external diameter of 42.2, length 130mm: Rudder Pivot.

2) An iron plat of 50 x 50 x 6mm: Cover of the rudder pivot.

3) A tube of external diameter of 33.4mm, length 700mm: Tail rudder.

4) An angle of 30 x 30 x 5, length 250mm: Rudder Support.

5) A plywood cut according to the desires of each, thickness 6mm and 0.1m ² of surface (for example a right-angled triangle of height 300mm and base 600mm): the Rudder.

  • On the rudder pivot open one notch according to the diagram.
  • Solder the cover on the outside, opposite to the notch of the rudder pivot.
  • On the tube Tail rudder, make a tube notch with the help of a pattern allowing a 110° welding of the rudder pivot.
  • Drill the angle support at 3 points to attach the rudder with bolts of 6mm diameter.
  • Weld the angle support perpendicularly at the end of the Tail rudder
Eolienne 200W tube pivot safran.jpg
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Eolienne 200W tube pivot safran et queue.jpg
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Étape 26 - Assembly, Generator

  • Screw the spindle of the bell hub on the cradle of the nacelle
  • Screw a bolt on every rod of the stator.
  • Screw the stator on the cradle.
  • Prepare 4 threaded rods of12mm diameter, 140mm length . (See method: Step "Generator, stator: Preparation threaded stator rods").
  • Fix the rotor on the bell hub with the 4 threaded rods and16 nuts.
  • Fit the bell hub onto the spindle, carefully repositioning the ball bearings and lock nuts (tighten to the maximum and then loosen a quarter turn). The system must turn freely.
  • Adjust the gap between the rotor and the stator by adjusting the nuts of the stator. The gap should be about 1mm.
Eolienne 200W 2017.09.01 - 116.JPG
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Étape 27 - The final assembly and the production test.

  • Position the nacelle on a test mast.
  • With the help of a person, turn the generator at 1 turn/second. A metronome can be used. Set a voltmeter to AC and measure the voltage between each phase. The value should be close to 1.9V. If it is not, check the gap between stator and rotor
  • Fit the propeller, the face down towards the generator, then screw a nut with a washer on each threaded rod. It is possible to use clamps for the interlocking.
  • Install the rudder on the pivot.
Eolienne 200W 2017.09.01 - 188.JPG
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Étape 28 - Balancing of the blades.

Étape 29 - Lubrication of the wind turbine

Étape 30 - 12V DC rectifier installation

"'Note"': To charge the 12V battery, it is necessary to transform the AC produced by each phase into a DC.

  • Use a three-phase AC to single-phase DC voltage rectifier.
  • Solder each phase of the output cable to each input terminal of the rectifier.
  • Solder a single-phase cable on the 2 output terminals of the rectifier.

Protect the system in a waterproof box and fix it on the body of the wind turbine.

"'Note"': It will be necessary to install a charge controller between the wind turbine and the battery.

Étape 31 - Educational content to download

You can download an educational file created by Low-tech lab in the "files" tab of the tutorial (tab under the section Tools & Materials)

Eolienne 200W Piggott.JPG




Notes et références

  • Pack tutorials created by Camille Duband and Pierre-Alain Lévêque, Low-tech Lab team, September 2017.
  • The wind turbines developed by Hugh Piggott range from 200W to 2000W.
  • Website of Hugh Piggott, inventor of the wind turbine, information in English.
  • Website of Tripalium, to find information and construction courses, in French.

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