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Tutorial de Alice (Lilou) M-D | Catégories : Alimentation, Santé
The joy of fermented foods is that, as well as being good for your health, its contain very few processed ingredients when made of low-tech. Additionally, its diversify our diet by enriching it (in terms of flavour and nutrients).
The joy of fermented foods is that, as well as being good for your health, its contain very few processed ingredients when made of low-tech. Additionally, its diversify our diet by enriching it (in terms of flavour and nutrients).
Vegan, Fermentation, protéines animales, céréales, oléagineux, soja, légumineuses, umami, végétarien, probiotique, miso, tempeh, seitan, tofu, algues
Fermented foods are foods that have been transformed by micro-organisms: bacteria, yeasts, mushrooms. This process often takes place without oxygen, in an anaerobic environment. Microbes normally multiply in the presence of oxygen. But when they are deprived of it, they fight back by producing molecules to gain an advantage over competing microbes: alcohol, lactic acid, acetic acid. This gives rise to various types of fermentation: lactic, alcoholic, acetic, etc. Although we sometimes tend to forget it, many everyday foods are in fact fermented: bread, cheese, yoghurt, sauerkraut, sausage, wine, beer... The list goes on. That's a good thing because their effects are beneficial to health !' They aid digestion, help the intestines to function properly, are sources of vitamins and minerals, and boost the immune system...
As Virginie Geres reminds us with her website HappyBiote, without micro-organisms we'd be dead! Quite simply! We couldn't function without the billions of bacteria, yeasts and other (non-pathogenic) microbes that line our bodies. They carry out important tasks such as protecting us from aggression from other (pathogenic) microbes, allowing us to eat, to have a distinct smell from other people (and therefore making it easier to fall in love when we're not too dirty), they participate in our immune system... And in each of our cells is a microorganism that we have incorporated over the millennia: the mitochondrion, which enables cellular respiration! Watch this super video to find out more.
So, not only are microorganisms necessary for our survival, but by providing a wide diversity of them through a healthy and varied diet (in particular with foods rich in fibre -prebiotics- and microorganisms -probiotics-) we improve our immune and mental health. This is the very opposite of modern occidental standards, which make people literally ill, among other things because of a weak microbiota. For more information I recommend this report from Arte, or this one a little older on the same theme.
All good reasons to eat them regularly (but be careful not to eat just that!).
Here are several recipes for no-waste fermented drinks, made from natural micro-organisms. Try out the making of these homemade sodas !
To find out more about fermentations, I invite you to look at, download and distribute the collection from the 2020 French summit on fermentations, which includes contributions from scientists, chefs and various recipes. You'll find it just below in the "Files" section of the tutorial.
The recipes proposed here are vegan (i.e. without animal proteins), but anyone can use them in their cooking to diversify their diet and seek out new culinary discoveries! The recipes chosen here aim to give you a visual and taste experience similar to that of dishes containing animal proteins. It's a choice that may make life easier for those around you (if they're non-vegan), but it also raises moral questions (why try to reproduce meat or cheese when it's not?) and often requires more effort than very good plant-based recipes (because the search for similarity is difficult to achieve depending on the raw materials used).
Youtube
You don't have to work in a sterile field when it comes to fermentation, but it is crucial to be as clean as possible.
Work on a clean work surface (if necessary/possible sanitised with white vinegar or alcohol). Use clean utensils and containers, washed in hot water (or put in the dishwasher), handle with clean hands and wipe with a CLEAN tea towel... of course.
For the section on vegetable cheeses, another very complete tutorial is available on the wiki. Feel free to read it and try out the recipes.
Fermented foods - vegetable milk kefir and vegan cheeses
If you prefer to buy plant-based cheese, I'd recommend the brand Jay & Joy, an artisanal, organic, French, soy-free plant-based dairy. Their products can be found in Biocoop shops. They have mature cheeses such as Camembert, Bleu, buche de chèvre... that are really impressive!
It's very common to find aquafaba in vegetarian and vegan recipes as a replacement for egg white. This is because the cooking water from certain legumes (chickpeas, kidney beans) has the same viscosity and can be whisked like conventional egg whites. This cooking water is made up of around 90% water and 10% protein and fibre. It's virtually the same composition as egg white, which explains why when you mix the chickpea cooking juices briskly with an electric mixer, you get a froth that's virtually identical to that of stiffly beaten egg whites.
Recipe:
Example of use
Ah veggie steaks... It's a whole story, and there are lots of possible recipes to avoid the ultra-processed meat-based versions found in supermarkets!
Depending on your tastes and your desire to have a dish that resembles an animal steak, you have several possibilities. Here are several examples that can be mixed together to give the texture, taste and visual appearance you prefer.
If you like soy (or hemp tofu) you can make your own at home in a low-tech way thanks to this tutorial.
You can grill a slab of tofu, bread it and/or fry it, or chop it into small pieces to give the impression that it's a piece of chicken, or mince it finely to give the impression of minced meat. The full range of lacto-fermented vegetables and other ferments can be used in addition to spices/aromats to adjust colour and flavour. Tofu is an easy replacement for commercially available textured soya protein (TSP), which is often used to mimic meat in vegan/vegetarian ready meals.
Seitan is a Japanese speciality that has been eaten for centuries as a substitute for meat (in particular as a substitute for pork or chicken for Buddhist monks). It is nicknamed ‘wheat meat’ because it is so rich in protein. All you need is wheat flour, water, stock (traditionally kombu seaweed) and soy sauce to make it yourself in a low-tech way. You can find the recipe on this tutorial. What gives seitan its elastic/spongy texture comes mainly from the wheat gluten, but it is possible to use other flours to avoid gluten.
Like tofu, seitan can be cut and seasoned however you like to make it a meat substitute. You can grill a piece of seitan, bread it and/or fry it or cut it into small pieces to give the impression that they are pieces of chicken or chop it finely to give the impression of minced meat.
Tempeh is traditionally made from yellow soya beans, but it is possible to use other beans (lupins, almonds, kidney beans, maize, chickpeas, etc.). For example, it can be made from okara (filtered pulp not used in vegetable milks).
Tempeh has a flavour reminiscent of mushrooms, nuts and yeast. You can grill a piece of tempeh, bread it and/or fry it, or chop it into small pieces to give the impression that it's a piece of chicken, or mince it finely to give the impression of minced meat.
It is rich in vegetable protein but its visual appearance and strong flavour can make it difficult to use on its own as a meat substitute. So don't hesitate to mix it with other recipes and flavour it.
Click here to see the tutorial on different tempeh recipes.
It is perfectly possible to ferment polenta. Traditionally, polenta is made from corn, but it can also be made from seeds that have not been finely chopped, such as chickpeas, wheat (finer than bulgur), millet, etc. To ferment them, simply soak them in water or a brine (lacto-fermentation, for example) for 48 hours, which develops a tangy flavour and a magnificent crust when pan-fried. The advantage of polentas is that as they cook, the texture can become very thick and you can give them any shape you like. It can be flavoured with whatever you like to give it the right taste, and to give it a meat-like colour you can add a little beetroot juice (why not in the fermentation water).
Rosties are traditionally raw potatoes, grated and mixed with cheese. To adapt it to your own tastes, you can use vegetable cheeses (see the other tutorial to make them yourself), lacto-ferment the potatoes before grating them (in a 3% salt brine for 48 hours) and add onions, garlic, vegetables such as courgette (for extra softness)... Lacto-fermented vegetables to spice up the flavour and spices/aromats. You'll often find the combination of brewer's yeast, miso and tamari in recipes.
The combination of red beans and egg whites (which can be replaced by aquafaba) is often used to imitate meat steaks. The disadvantage of this recipe is that the result is often a dry steak with little flavour. To avoid this problem, I recommend (obviously) fermenting your pulses, adding a little dosas or sourdough (to give a binding agent) and adding vegetables (lacto-fermented? e.g. beetroot/carrot). Adding beetroot or red cabbage will give an even darker colour if you like the trompe-l'oeil effect.
Once the vegetables have fermented, you can steam or boil them and then mash them lightly to make a lumpy purée, to which you add the other ingredients before forming cobblestones and cooking them in a pan.
If you would like to recreate a vegetarian version of steak tartare, you can take inspiration from the recipes above by adding a little vegetable (beetroot, for example) (part of which is lacto-fermented to give it acidity, and by flavouring the lacto-fermentation the explosion of flavours in the mouth is incredible! Adding vegetables to the legumes (such as kidney beans, for example) gives the steak tartare its softness and moisture. Then you're free to flavour it as you would an animal tartare: add shallots, gherkins, capers (you can make capers from any edible flower bud!). To give your tartare a nice shape, don't hesitate to use a cutter or a bowl and if necessary add a little sauce (e.g. homemade fermented ketchup or mayonnaise, vinaigrette...).
There are lots of ways to replace meat stuffing, depending on how much you want it to look like the classic dish. It's very easy to replace meat with cereals, oilseeds or cooked (or even fermented beforehand) pulses with a more or less fine texture to form the stuffing.
Vous pouvez reprendre les recettes pour faire des steacks végétaux et les modeler en boulettes.
Pour les saucisses, suivant le résultat que vous souhaitez (texture fine ou granuleuse) vous pouvez utiliser l'une des recettes précédentes sur les steak et les façonner en saucisses. Un tofu ou un seitan rendra une texture fine, les autres dépendront de la finesse de mixage. Pour avoir un gout type chorizo n'hésitez pas à mettre du piment et du poivron rouge/paprika dans vos préparations.
Les recette de falafels fermentés de ce tutoriel fonctionne très bien : Aliments fermentés - dosas, crèpes vegan
Vous pouvez aussi simplement mélanger par exemple du boulgour, des lentilles et autres "graines" avec des épices, des champignons et d'autres légumes. Avec ou sans sauce fermentées (donne un gout plus proche de la viande ou du poisson), le résultat est très sain et délicieux!
Autre astuce : pour un côté fumé incroyable, des aubergines grillées (ou mieux, le caviar d'aubergines lactofermenté de NiCruNiCuit) est à tomber!
Voici une recette cousine de Ferment'Nation faite à partir d'haricots rouges, brésilienne qui remplace souvent les acras de morue : https://www.instagram.com/p/CFZ6q1cIcru/
Pour ce qui concerne le gratin façon brandade de morue on peut reprendre la recette de boulettes en la modifiant légèrement. On peut faire fermenter des haricots blancs (pour garder une couleur blanche-crème, utiliser des légumes lactofermentés pour réhausser le gout. Pour donner l'aspect fibreux de la morue certaines personnes utilisent du coeur de palmier, il pourrait être remplacé par des pousses de bambou ou tout autre légume légèrement fibreux produit localement (ex: asperges, plus parfumé fenouil)
Pour imiter des viandes ou poissons panés vous pouvez utiliser une recette de steack et le rouler dans un lait végétal ou de l'aquafaba pour ensuite l'envelopper de panure et le faire cuire. l'ajout de paillettes de levures de bières dans la panure augmente le gout.
Pour le poisson plus précisément, si vous souhaitez retrouver un gout iodé vous pouvez faire mariner un petit peu le "steak" dans une préparation de jus de citron et algues. La recette de Mimagusta présente une vidéo en utilisant des resctangles de celeri rave pané.
Pâté lactofermenté d'automne par Ferment'Nation aux graines de tournesol, poivron, tomates séchées, tamari, courgettes lactofermentées. (Photo)
Pâté lactofermenté à la courgette, pommes, noix, graines de tournesol par Ferment'Nation.
Pâté en croute de lentilles au tofu et champignons par La Fée Stéphanie
Pour un pâté à tartiner avec des ingrédients similaires vous pouvez mixer plus finement celui de la première recette ou bien lire l'adaptation de celle-ci, toujours par La Fée Stéphanie.
Rillettes imitation terrine de la mer (aux algues) Par Delphine de Geek&Balsamique. Si vous ne souhaitez pas utiliser de soja, il est possible de farbiquer du tofu de chanvre ou bien de remplacer le tofu par des légumineuses (ex: pois-chiche, haricots blancs ou rouges) réduits en purée et d'utiliser comme liant du yaourt végétal ou bien la recette de mayonaise vegan maison décrite dans ce tutoriel.
Tartinade imitation tarama vegan au tofu et yaourt végétal par Delphine de Geek&Balsamique.
Pour servir façon cake/terrines-gelées en plat principal il suffit d'augmenter les quantités et ajouter peut-être de l'agar-agar afin de solidifier le "cake". Pour des cake/terrines imitation poisson ou fruits de mer vous pouvez utiliser des lentilles corail et du concentré de tomate jusqu'à avoir la couleur et la texture désirée. Utiliser du miso, du tofu fumé, du paprika fumé ou des aubergines lactofermentées permet de renforcer l'arôme de fumé.
Si vous avez la chance d'avoir la plante au gout d'huitre à portée de main (Mertensia marine) n'hésitez pas à l'utiliser pour remplacer les algues ou à l'ajouter pour avoir un gout encore plus proche.
Si vous délayez un peu vos pâtés, cela vous donnera d'excellentes soupes, notamment imitation soupes de poisson. Puisque la préparation est diluée n'hésitez pas à plus fortement doser les épices et les algues.
Voici la recette fermentée d'une amie, Pauline Cueto
Faire tremper les noix de cajou dans l'eau et le vin pendant quelques heures. Egoutter. Mixer les noix avec tous les autres ingrédients. Diluer l'agar-agar dans le vin et faire chauffer afin d'avoir un liquide homogène. Ajouter au reste du mélange et mixer à nouveau.
Verser dans des verrines et placer au frais.
Astuces :
(c) Photos de Consommons Sainement présentant sa réalisation de la recette de La Petite Okara
Voici une autre recette de La Fée Stéphanie qui adapate la recette de Sébastien Kardinal (vidéo), en utilisant notamment de l'huile d'olive parfumée à la truffe.
Recette de ShiraBio en 10 minutes (puis 48h). Voici la vidéo de la recette complète spécial fêtes de Noël.
Comme les carottes fermentées il est possible de remplacer les poissons par différents légumes et fromages/protéines végétales. Pour les rouleaux de printemps vous pouvez utiliser ces substitus pour remplacer les crevettes ou le poisson.
Vous pouvez donc essayer les combinaisons ci-dessous pour vous lancer puis imaginer vos propres "sushis végétaux"
Si vous n'avez pas le temps de les faire fermenter, vous pouvez utiliser des sauces asiatiques du commerce et les faire mariner 24-48h à l'avance.
Bien sur il existe aussi une grande variété de sushis et makis aux légumes. Par exemple les classiques au concombre, avocat, mais amusez-vous aussi à varier les couleurs, textures et gouts en utilisant des carottes, du choux rouge... lactofermenté? Un délice!
Et pour les makis francisés contenant du fromage? Utilisez des recettes de fromage vegan, le tutoriel est par ici.
Pour plus d'inspirations de recettes et des cours de fermentations n'hésitez pas à suivre ShiraBio, Ferment'Nation et à explorer l'incroyable site (et livres) de Marie-Claire Frédéric, anthropologue et cheffe de cuisine fascinée par les fermentations du monde : Ni cru ni cuit
Il existe d'ailleurs plusieurs groupes facebook de passionnés de fermentations, je vous recommande ceux-ci
Si vous êtes à la recherche de livres de références pour apprendre les arts de la fermentation, Sébastien alias Ferment'Nation propose dans ce post du groupe Fermentation Maison une compilation expliquée des meilleurs livres qu'il a testé. Il y en a des spécifiques (sur les lactofermentations, les fromages) et d'autres généralistes. De quoi vous inspirer!
Pour retrouver de nombreuses recettes, ferments et outils pour fermenter à la maison voici le site de l'entreprise Fairment, organisatrice du Sommet sur les fermentations : https://fairment.com et celle plutôt du continent Américain, Révolution Fermentation : https://shop.revolutionfermentation.ca/
D'autres références incontournables sont dans les premières pages du fichier joint à ce tutoriel.
Si vous souhaitez voir plus de tutoriels sur les fermentations n'hésitez pas à regarder :
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