Lessive à la cendre/en : Différence entre versions

(Page créée avec « A free laundry recipe that doesn't need heating, keeps for several months and even acts as a fertiliser! This base can also be used to clean floors and dishes. »)
(Page créée avec « *Blood: quickly rinse with COLD water, if necessary apply saliva (the enzymes eliminate the stain) or rub with bicarbonate. *Fruit and vegetables, lawn: scrape off excess,... »)
 
(25 révisions intermédiaires par le même utilisateur non affichées)
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{{Introduction
 
{{Introduction
|Introduction=Ah la lessive, ces fameuses pubs et son rayon très odorant ! C’est parfois un casse-tête de chercher la lessive qui nous convient (adapté à son linge/peau sensible, parfumée mais pas trop, avec des ingrédients pas trop allergisant ou mauvais pour l’environnement…). Le problème est que l’affichage des ingrédients sur les lessives et les produits nettoyants est très limité : on trouve souvent « contient des agents ioniques et anioniques », plus flou c’est difficile ! D’autant plus que les lessives commerciales coutent souvent cher, et que celles bio ou écologiques ne sont pas plus transparentes sur leur composition (même si certaines affichent des détergents 100% naturels ou issus de végétaux). Dans tous les cas, acheter des lessives commerciales revient à produire beaucoup de déchets, surtout si vous utilisez des berlingots enrobés, tablettes ou bidons en plastique. Dans ce tutoriel je vous propose une recette facile, rapide et économique de fabriquer sa propre lessive, et 100% biodégradable !
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|Introduction=Ah laundry detergent, those famous adverts and the very smelly detergent dispenser! It can sometimes be a headache to find the detergent that's right for you (suitable for your clothes/sensitive skin, perfumed but not too much, with ingredients that aren't too allergenic or bad for the environment...). The problem is that the ingredients listed on detergents and cleaning products are very limited: you'll often find "contains ionic and anionic agents", but it's hard to find anything more vague than that! Especially as commercial detergents are often expensive, and organic or ecological detergents are no more transparent about their composition (even if some claim to contain 100% natural or plant-based detergents). In any case, buying commercial detergents means producing a lot of waste, especially if you use plastic bottles, tablets or cans. In this tutorial, I'll show you a quick, easy and economical way to make your own 100% biodegradable washing powder!
  
  
<u>'''Avantages'''</u> : Mono-ingrédient, réalisable sans chauffage, fertilisant naturel, aucune odeur et n’encrasse pas les canalisations, gratuite car permet d’utiliser un « déchet » des feux de bois. Conservation illimitée grâce au pH basique.
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<u>'''Advantages'''</u>: Single-ingredient, can be made without heating, natural fertiliser, no odour and doesn't obstruct drains, free because you can use a "waste product" from wood fires. Unlimited conservation thanks to the basic pH.
  
{{Idea|La lessive peut également servir de nettoyant pour le sol et la vaisselle, et les cendres filtrées peuvent encore servir d’engrais et de nettoyant (pâte à récurer multiusage).}}
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{{Idea|Detergent can also be used as a floor and dish cleaner, and the filtered ash can be used as a fertiliser and cleaner (multi-purpose scouring paste)}}.
  
  
<u>'''Inconvénients'''</u> : peu adaptée au linge délicat, tendance à ternir le linge blanc à long terme (rattrapable avec du percarbonate), pour le jardin attention car pH basique.
+
<u>'''Disadvantages'''</u>: not suitable for delicate laundry, tends to make white laundry dull in the long term (can be made up with percarbonate), for the garden be careful because pH basic.
  
  
La très grande majorité des lessives utilisées sont faites à base de produits contenant du sodium comme agent actif, ce qui une fois rejeté dans l'environnement est non seulement alcalinisant (augmente le pH) mais également salinisant à long terme. Un des grands avantages de la lessive de cendre est que le principe actif est de la '''potasse''' (forme ionique du potassium, le K du  fameux tryptique N-P-K de la fertilisation agricole). Même si le rejet de votre eau de lessive continuera d'être alcalinisant, cela fertilisera votre environnement en un élément souvent oublié par les jardiniers et plus difficile à apporter que de l'azote!
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The large majority of detergents used are based on products containing sodium as the active agent, which once released into the environment is not only alkalinising (increases the pH) but also salinising in the long term. One of the great advantages of ash detergents is that the active ingredient is potash (the ionic form of potassium, the K in the famous N-P-K tryptic of agricultural fertilisation). Even if the discharge from your washing water continues to be alkalinising, it will fertilise your environment with an element that is often forgotten by gardeners and is harder to provide than nitrogen !
  
<u>Comment ça marche ?</u> Après brassage, le liquide est chargé en sels de potasse. Dans la machine à laver, au contact de la graisse présente sur le linge sale, cette potasse se transforme en savon. En gros, plus il y a de graisse, et mieux ça lave !
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<u>How does it work ?</u> After stirring, the liquid is loaded with potassium salts. In the washing machine, when it comes into contact with the grease on the dirty clothes, this potash is transformed into soap. Basically, the more grease there is, the better it washes !
  
{{Warning|Attention, comme dit plus haut cette lessive réagit fortement aux graisses, Y COMPRIS LE SEBUM DE LA PEAU. Il est donc important de porter des gants au moment du filtrage sous peine d'avoir la peau irritée et fortement déssechée!}}<br />
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{{Warning|Be careful, as mentioned above, this detergent reacts strongly to greases, INCLUDING SKIN SEBUM. It is therefore important to wear gloves when filtering, otherwise your skin will become irritated and very dry !}}<br />
 
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{{Materials
 
{{Materials
 
|Step_Picture_00=Lessive___la_cendre_1_volume_de_cendre.png
 
|Step_Picture_00=Lessive___la_cendre_1_volume_de_cendre.png
|Material=* Cendre
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|Material=* Ash
* Eau
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* Water
|Tools=*Tami (pour éliminer les morceaux de charbons et résidus)
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|Tools=*Tami (to remove pieces of charcoal and residue)
*Seau/saladier/grand contenant
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*Bucket/bowl/large container
*Linge pour filtrer
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*Cloth for filtering
*Bâton ou tige pour mélanger
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*Stick or rod for mixing
*Bidon ou bouteille vide
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*Empty jug or bottle
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=Tamisage
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|Step_Title=Screening
|Step_Content=Une fois la cendre récupérée, prendre le temps de la tamiser au dessus d'un seau pour éliminer tout ce qui n'est pas de la cendre et qui pourrait flotter (charbon, bois) ou couler (métal des cagettes ect).
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|Step_Content=Once the ash has been collected, take the time to screen it over a bucket to eliminate anything that is not ash and could float ( charcoal, wood) or sink ( metal from the crates etc).
  
Attention, la poussière fine de la cendre peut irriter les yeux et les poumons. Vous pouvez porter un masque et des lunettes si cela vous incomode. Essayez pour votre confort de vous mettre dehors, dans un endroit à l'abris du vent.
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Be careful, the fine dust from the ash can irritate the eyes and lungs. You can wear a mask and goggles if you feel uncomfortable. For your own comfort, try to stand outside in a place sheltered from the wind.
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=Macération
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|Step_Title=Maceration
|Step_Content=Verser dans un grand seau ou bac avec couvercle (pour éviter que la pluie et d'autres éléments extérieurs tombent dedans)
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|Step_Content=Pour into a large bucket or bin with a lid (to prevent rain and other outside elements from falling in).
  
* 1 volume de cendre tamisé
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* 1 part sieved ash
* 2 volumes d'eau
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* 2 parts water
  
Bien remuer puis laisser macérer pendant au moins 48h, si possible en remuant de temps en temps. Vous pouvez  tout à fait "oublier" cette macération pendant plusieurs jours/semaines/mois, cela continuera de se concentrer jusqu'à se stabiliser.
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Stir well and leave to macerate for at least 48 hours, stirring occasionally if possible. You can forget about this maceration for several days/weeks/months, as it will continue to concentrate until it stabilises.
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
 
|Step_Title=Filtration
 
|Step_Title=Filtration
|Step_Content=Cette étape n'est pas obligatoire, vous pouvez très bien utiliser le seau de macération et prendre le volume de lessive dont vous avez besoin à la surface, en veillant à bien avoir laissé décanter la cendre au fond.
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|Step_Content=This step is not necessary - you can just use the macerating bucket and take the volume of detergent you need from the surface, making sure you let the ash settle to the bottom.
  
  
Si vous souhaitez filtrer, prenez un linge propre, des gants, et un seau. Après avoir filtré dans un grand seau/casserole il est plus facile de transvaser la lessive dans une bouteille/bidon avec un entonnoir.
+
If you want to filter, take a clean cloth, gloves and a bucket. After filtering in a large bucket/pan, it's easier to transfer the detergent into a bottle/jug with a funnel.
  
La couleur peut varier suivant le filtrage : transparente, ou jaune/brune. Il suffit de laisser décanter et bien éliminer les restes de charbon avant de mélanger à l’eau.
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The colour can vary according to the filtering: transparent or yellow/brown. Simply allow to settle and remove any remaining charcoal before mixing with water.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Lessive___la_cendre_cendre_filtr_e.jpg
 
|Step_Picture_00=Lessive___la_cendre_cendre_filtr_e.jpg
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Tuto Step
 
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=Utilisation et conservation
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|Step_Title=Use and conservation
|Step_Content=La lessive à la cendre possède un pH très haut (basique), ce qui rend impossible toute fermentation. Elle se conserve donc plus d'un an sans avoir besoin de la conserver au frais, mais la garder à l'ombre ne peut pas lui faire de mal.
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|Step_Content=Ash detergent has a very high pH (basic), making it impossible for it to ferment. It can therefore be kept for over a year without needing to be kept in a fresh place, but exposure to the shade won't do it any harm.
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Conseils d'utilisation :{{#annotatedImageLight:Fichier:Lessive a la cendre Image.png|0=432px|hash=|jsondata=|mediaClass=Image|type=frameless|align=center|src=https://wiki.lowtechlab.org/images/6/69/Lessive_a_la_cendre_Image.png|href=./Fichier:Lessive a la cendre Image.png|resource=./Fichier:Lessive a la cendre Image.png|caption=conseils d'utilisation lessive cendre|size=432px}}<br />
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How to use :{{#annotatedImageLight:Fichier:Lessive a la cendre Image.png|0=432px|hash=|jsondata=|mediaClass=Image|type=frameless|align=center|src=https://wiki.lowtechlab.org/images/6/69/Lessive_a_la_cendre_Image.png|href=./Fichier:Lessive a la cendre Image.png|resource=./Fichier:Lessive a la cendre Image.png|caption=conseils d'utilisation lessive cendre|size=432px}}<br />
 
}}
 
}}
 
{{Notes
 
{{Notes
|Notes=====''Petites astuces :''====
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|Notes=====''Little tips:''====
  
*Pour le linge blanc il est possible d'ajouter une poignée de percarbonate (avec des gants!!) dans le tambour de la machine. L'effet blanchissant se fait à partir de 40°C.
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*For white laundry, you can add a handful of percarbonate (with gloves on!!) to the machine drum. The whitening effect starts at 40°C.
*Pour économiser de la lessive (jusqu’à 50%) tout en lavant mieux par brassage vous pouvez utiliser des balles de lavages. Plutôt que d’en acheter, vous pouvez utiliser des balles de tennis, ou toute autre balle "molle" qui résistera à un lavage en machine. Attention pour la santé de votre machine et le bruit on évitera les balles de golf !
+
*To save detergent (up to 50%) while washing better, you can use wash balls. Rather than buying them, you can use tennis balls, or any other "soft" ball that will withstand machine washing. For the sake of your machine's health and noise, avoid using golf balls!
*Si vous avez une eau très dure et/ou que vous trouvez que votre lessive de cendre ne lave pas assez bien vous pouvez ajouter 1 poignée de bicarbonate par litre de lessive.
+
*If you have very hard water and/or find that your ash detergent doesn't wash well enough, you can add 1 handful of bicarbonate per litre of detergent.
*En adoucissant vous pouvez utiliser du vinaigre blanc dans le compartiment adapté
+
*As a softener, you can use white vinegar in the appropriate compartment.
*Si vous souhaitez pafumer votre linge, vous pouvez soit utiliser une "eau de linge", spray à base d'hydrolat ou d'infusion de plante, ou mettre quelques gouttes d'huiles essentielles dans la lessive (mais ce serait un peu du gachi pour ces concentrés médicinaux)
+
*If you want to perfume your washing, you can either use "eau de linge", a spray based on a hydrolate or plant infusion, or add a few drops of essential oils to the detergent (although this would be a bit of a waste for these medicinal concentrates).
*Pour les tâches tenaces n'hésitez pas à les traiter au plus vite, avant de mettre en lessive pour plus d'efficacité.
+
*For stubborn spots, don't hesitate to treat them as quickly as possible, before putting them in the detergent for greater effectiveness.
{{Idea|Venir à bout des taches : }}
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{{Idea|Stain removal: }}
  
*Sang : rincer rapidement à l'eau FROIDE, si urgence déposer de la salive (les enzymes éliminent la tache) ou frotter avec du bicarbonate
+
*Blood: quickly rinse with COLD water, if necessary apply saliva (the enzymes eliminate the stain) or rub with bicarbonate.
*Fruits et légumes, gazon : racler le surplus, rincer à l'eau froide puis appliquer du vinaigre. Laisser agir 15-30 min puis laver au savon de Marseille
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*Fruit and vegetables, lawn: scrape off excess, rinse with cold water then apply vinegar. Leave for 15-30 minutes, then wash with Marseille soap.
*Boue : laisser sécher puis frotter l'excès. Laver ensuite au savon et si tenace ajouter un peu de vinaigre blanc ou de citron sur la tache avant de mettre en machine
+
*Mud: leave to dry, then rub off excess. Then wash with soap and, if stubborn, add a little white vinegar or lemon juice to the stain before putting in the washing machine.
*Suie, charbon, mazout : frotter avec un corps gras (huile, beurre) et éponger le plus d'excédent possible, puis frotter au savon noir ou de Marseille
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*Soap, charcoal, fuel oil: rub with a greasy substance (oil, butter) and blot up as much excess as possible, then rub with black or Marseille soap.
*Gras/huile : appliquer de l'amidon (farine, maïzena), de la terre de sommière ou de l'argile pour absorber le surplus puis laver au savon noir/de Marseille
+
*Grease/oil: apply starch (flour, cornflour), earth or clay to absorb the excess, then wash with black or Marseille soap.
  
 
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Version actuelle datée du 20 juin 2024 à 16:09

Tutorial de avatarAlice (Lilou) M-D | Catégories : Habitat, Hygiène

A free laundry recipe that doesn't need heating, keeps for several months and even acts as a fertiliser! This base can also be used to clean floors and dishes.

Difficulté
Très facile
Durée
2 jour(s)
Coût
0 EUR (€)
Autres langues :
English • ‎français • ‎العربية
Licence : Attribution (CC BY)

Introduction

Ah laundry detergent, those famous adverts and the very smelly detergent dispenser! It can sometimes be a headache to find the detergent that's right for you (suitable for your clothes/sensitive skin, perfumed but not too much, with ingredients that aren't too allergenic or bad for the environment...). The problem is that the ingredients listed on detergents and cleaning products are very limited: you'll often find "contains ionic and anionic agents", but it's hard to find anything more vague than that! Especially as commercial detergents are often expensive, and organic or ecological detergents are no more transparent about their composition (even if some claim to contain 100% natural or plant-based detergents). In any case, buying commercial detergents means producing a lot of waste, especially if you use plastic bottles, tablets or cans. In this tutorial, I'll show you a quick, easy and economical way to make your own 100% biodegradable washing powder!


Advantages: Single-ingredient, can be made without heating, natural fertiliser, no odour and doesn't obstruct drains, free because you can use a "waste product" from wood fires. Unlimited conservation thanks to the basic pH.

Detergent can also be used as a floor and dish cleaner, and the filtered ash can be used as a fertiliser and cleaner (multi-purpose scouring paste)
.


Disadvantages: not suitable for delicate laundry, tends to make white laundry dull in the long term (can be made up with percarbonate), for the garden be careful because pH basic.


The large majority of detergents used are based on products containing sodium as the active agent, which once released into the environment is not only alkalinising (increases the pH) but also salinising in the long term. One of the great advantages of ash detergents is that the active ingredient is potash (the ionic form of potassium, the K in the famous N-P-K tryptic of agricultural fertilisation). Even if the discharge from your washing water continues to be alkalinising, it will fertilise your environment with an element that is often forgotten by gardeners and is harder to provide than nitrogen !

How does it work ? After stirring, the liquid is loaded with potassium salts. In the washing machine, when it comes into contact with the grease on the dirty clothes, this potash is transformed into soap. Basically, the more grease there is, the better it washes !

Be careful, as mentioned above, this detergent reacts strongly to greases, INCLUDING SKIN SEBUM. It is therefore important to wear gloves when filtering, otherwise your skin will become irritated and very dry !

Matériaux

  • Ash
  • Water

Outils

  • Tami (to remove pieces of charcoal and residue)
  • Bucket/bowl/large container
  • Cloth for filtering
  • Stick or rod for mixing
  • Empty jug or bottle

Étape 1 - Screening

Once the ash has been collected, take the time to screen it over a bucket to eliminate anything that is not ash and could float ( charcoal, wood) or sink ( metal from the crates etc).

Be careful, the fine dust from the ash can irritate the eyes and lungs. You can wear a mask and goggles if you feel uncomfortable. For your own comfort, try to stand outside in a place sheltered from the wind.

Étape 2 - Maceration

Pour into a large bucket or bin with a lid (to prevent rain and other outside elements from falling in).

  • 1 part sieved ash
  • 2 parts water

Stir well and leave to macerate for at least 48 hours, stirring occasionally if possible. You can forget about this maceration for several days/weeks/months, as it will continue to concentrate until it stabilises.

Étape 3 - Filtration

This step is not necessary - you can just use the macerating bucket and take the volume of detergent you need from the surface, making sure you let the ash settle to the bottom.


If you want to filter, take a clean cloth, gloves and a bucket. After filtering in a large bucket/pan, it's easier to transfer the detergent into a bottle/jug with a funnel.

The colour can vary according to the filtering: transparent or yellow/brown. Simply allow to settle and remove any remaining charcoal before mixing with water.




Étape 4 - Use and conservation

Ash detergent has a very high pH (basic), making it impossible for it to ferment. It can therefore be kept for over a year without needing to be kept in a fresh place, but exposure to the shade won't do it any harm.

How to use :
conseils d'utilisation lessive cendre

Notes et références

Little tips:

  • For white laundry, you can add a handful of percarbonate (with gloves on!!) to the machine drum. The whitening effect starts at 40°C.
  • To save detergent (up to 50%) while washing better, you can use wash balls. Rather than buying them, you can use tennis balls, or any other "soft" ball that will withstand machine washing. For the sake of your machine's health and noise, avoid using golf balls!
  • If you have very hard water and/or find that your ash detergent doesn't wash well enough, you can add 1 handful of bicarbonate per litre of detergent.
  • As a softener, you can use white vinegar in the appropriate compartment.
  • If you want to perfume your washing, you can either use "eau de linge", a spray based on a hydrolate or plant infusion, or add a few drops of essential oils to the detergent (although this would be a bit of a waste for these medicinal concentrates).
  • For stubborn spots, don't hesitate to treat them as quickly as possible, before putting them in the detergent for greater effectiveness.
Stain removal:
  • Blood: quickly rinse with COLD water, if necessary apply saliva (the enzymes eliminate the stain) or rub with bicarbonate.
  • Fruit and vegetables, lawn: scrape off excess, rinse with cold water then apply vinegar. Leave for 15-30 minutes, then wash with Marseille soap.
  • Mud: leave to dry, then rub off excess. Then wash with soap and, if stubborn, add a little white vinegar or lemon juice to the stain before putting in the washing machine.
  • Soap, charcoal, fuel oil: rub with a greasy substance (oil, butter) and blot up as much excess as possible, then rub with black or Marseille soap.
  • Grease/oil: apply starch (flour, cornflour), earth or clay to absorb the excess, then wash with black or Marseille soap.


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