Savon à l'huile de coco/en : Différence entre versions

(Page créée avec « The first step is to extract the coconut oil from ripe coconut (brown nuts). Here is the procedure: * Open the coconut * Scrape the pulp with a scraper if you do not have... »)
 
(39 révisions intermédiaires par 6 utilisateurs non affichées)
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{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}
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{{Tuto Details
|SourceLanguage=fr
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|Main_Picture=Savon_100__coco_IMG_6802.JPG
|Language=en
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|Licences=Attribution (CC BY)
|IsTranslation=1
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|Description=In areas where the coconut tree (Cocos nucifera) grows, it is possible to produce a soap made out of it.
 +
|Area=Hygiene
 
|Type=Tutorial
 
|Type=Tutorial
|Area=Hygiene
 
|Tags=savon, coco, huile, cendres, NomadeDesMers
 
|Description=In areas where the coconut palm grows, '' Cocos nucifera '', it is possible to produce a soap from ingredients from this tree.
 
 
|Difficulty=Medium
 
|Difficulty=Medium
 +
|Duration=4
 +
|Duration-type=day(s)
 
|Cost=1
 
|Cost=1
 
|Currency=EUR (€)
 
|Currency=EUR (€)
|Duration=4
+
|Tags=savon, coco, huile, cendres, NomadeDesMers
|Duration-type=day(s)
+
|SourceLanguage=fr
|Licences=Attribution (CC BY)
+
|Language=en
|Main_Picture=Savon_100__coco_IMG_6802.JPG
+
|IsTranslation=1
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}
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{{Introduction
|Introduction=Soap is the basis of hygiene. Washing your hands regularly and even more so the body limits the transport of harmful substances and bacteria.
+
|Introduction=Soap is the basis of hygiene. Washing your hands regularly (and your body) limits the transport of harmful substances and bacteria.
To meet this need, it is possible to make soap yourself with simple products.
+
To meet this need, it is possible to make soap yourself with basic products.
The chemical reaction to produce the soap is called saponification and requires two reagents: a fat and a strong base. Here the fat will be coconut oil, from the ripe brown walnut, and the strong base will be soda.
+
The chemical reaction to make a soap is called saponification and requires two reagents: a fat and a strong base. Here the fat will be coconut oil from the ripe nut (brown), and the strong base will be soda NaOH.
 
This tutorial will teach you how to make soap from coconut.
 
This tutorial will teach you how to make soap from coconut.
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}
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{{Materials
|Material=*Coconut
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|Material=<div class="mw-translate-fuzzy">
 +
*Coconut
 
*Rainwater
 
*Rainwater
*Soda ash
+
*Soda cristals
 
*PH paper
 
*PH paper
|Tools=*A pot
+
</div>
 +
|Tools=<div class="mw-translate-fuzzy">
 +
*A pot
 
*A pan
 
*A pan
 
*A glass jar
 
*A glass jar
*Some clean towels
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*Some clean tea towels
 
*A kitchen scale
 
*A kitchen scale
 
*A stove
 
*A stove
 
*A mixer
 
*A mixer
 +
</div>
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}
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{{Tuto Step
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
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|Step_Title=Extract coconut oil
|Step_Picture_00=Savon_100%_coco_RIMG2004.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Savon_100%_coco_IMG_6462.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_02=Savon_100%_coco_IMG_6532.JPG
 
|Step_Title=Produce coconut oil
 
 
|Step_Content=The first step is to extract the coconut oil from ripe coconut (brown nuts). Here is the procedure:
 
|Step_Content=The first step is to extract the coconut oil from ripe coconut (brown nuts). Here is the procedure:
 
* Open the coconut
 
* Open the coconut
Ligne 48 : Ligne 48 :
 
* Pour the cream into a pan and cook over medium heat, stirring. Burnished cream and translucent oil is extracted. This step can take several tens of minutes.
 
* Pour the cream into a pan and cook over medium heat, stirring. Burnished cream and translucent oil is extracted. This step can take several tens of minutes.
 
* Filter the extracted coconut oil.
 
* Filter the extracted coconut oil.
 +
|Step_Picture_00=Savon_100%_coco_RIMG2004.JPG
 +
|Step_Picture_01=Savon_100%_coco_IMG_6462.JPG
 +
|Step_Picture_02=Savon_100%_coco_IMG_6532.JPG
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
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{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=Doser les produits
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|Step_Title=Dosing the products
 
|Step_Content=Une fois l'huile de coco extraite on peut mesurer la masse obtenue.
 
|Step_Content=Une fois l'huile de coco extraite on peut mesurer la masse obtenue.
  
Cette masse d'huile va déterminer la quantité de soude à ajouter à l'huile et ainsi permettre la saponification, c'est-à-dire la transformation en savon.
+
This mass of oil will determine the amount of soda to be added to the oil and thus allow the saponification, that is to say the transformation into soap.
  
La soude utilisée sera diluée dans un volume d'eau donné.
+
The soda used will be diluted in a given volume of water.
  
Pour cette étape le plus simple est d'utiliser un calculateur en ligne. Il suffit de préciser la nature de l'huile utilisée et sa masse afin d'obtenir la quantité de soude et d'eau à utiliser.
+
For this simplest step is to use an online calculator. It suffices to specify the nature of the oil used and its mass in order to obtain the quantity of soda and water to use.
  
[https://www.aroma-zone.com/info/calculateur-de-saponification Calculateur de saponification en ligne]
+
[https://www.aroma-zone.com/info/calculateur-de-saponification Online saponification calculator]
  
Note: Afin d'obtenir un savon le plus doux possible pour la peau, il est nécessaire de produire un savon surgras. Le calculateur propose directement les quantités de soude pour obtenir un savon surgras à 5%, 10%, etc.
+
Note: In order to obtain the mildest possible soap for the skin, it is necessary to produce a surgras soap. The calculator directly proposes the quantities of soda to obtain a surgras soap at 5%, 10%, etc.
  
Le surgraissage consiste en fait à réduire la quantité de soude afin que la réaction chimique ne soit pas totale. L'huile n'ayant pas réagi enrichie alors le savon en acide gras et diminue son pH.
+
Overgrading is actually reducing the amount of soda so that the chemical reaction is not total. The unreacted oil then enriches the soap with the fatty acid and lowers its pH.
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
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{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=Préparer la solution de soude
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|Step_Title=Prepare the soda solution
|Step_Content=Consignes de sécurité quant à l'usage de la soude caustique:
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|Step_Content=<div class="mw-translate-fuzzy">
 +
Safety instructions regarding the use of caustic soda:
 +
</div>
 +
 
 +
* Caustic soda is a product that can cause burns. It is therefore advisable to wear a minimum safety equipment.
  
La soude caustique est un produit pouvant causer des brûlures. Il convient donc de porter un équipement minimum de sécurité.
+
* Make sure to wear long clothing, gloves (nitrile or latex, laboratory) and safety glasses, well covered.
  
Assurez-vous de porter les vêtements long, des gants (nitrile ou latex, de laboratoire) et des lunettes de sécurité, bien couvrantes.
+
* In case of projection, rinse with white vinegar, do not put under water. So always have a bottle of vinegar in range when you handle soda.
  
En cas de projection, rincez avec du vinaigre blanc, ne mettez pas sous l'eau. Ayez donc toujours une bouteille de vinaigre à portée quand vous manipulez de la soude.
+
* To mix two liquids, always pour the most concentrated in the least concentrated to reduce the risk in case of projection.
  
Pour mélanger deux liquides, toujours verser le plus concentré dans le moins concentré afin de réduire les risque en cas de projection.
+
Once the equipment is on, you can start:
  
Une fois l'équipement enfilé, vous pouvez commencer:
+
* Pour the water into a container at the quantity / mass indicated by the calculator. Water having a density of 1, you can use the scale to be precise in the measurements.
* Verser l'eau dans un récipient à la quantité/masse indiquée par le calculateur. L'eau ayant une densité de 1, vous pouvez utiliser la balance afin d'être précis dans les mesures.
+
* Weigh the soda in another container to the mass indicated by the calculator. This measure must be as precise as possible. Better to add less soda than too much, to make a soap too fat rather than too basic. If you add the soda directly into the water you will not be able to remove material and correct a too big addition.
* Peser la soude dans un autre récipient à la masse indiquée par le calculateur. Cette mesure doit être la plus précise possible. Mieux vaut ajouter moins de soude que trop, afin de faire un savon trop gras plutôt que trop basique. Si vous ajoutez la soude directement dans l'eau vous ne pourrez retirer de matière et corriger un trop gros ajout.
+
* Gently add the weighed soda to the volume of water and stir gently avoiding any projection. The solution heats up, it's normal.
* Ajouter délicatement la soude pesée au volume d'eau et remuer doucement en évitant toute projection. La solution chauffe, c'est normal.
 
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
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{{Tuto Step
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|Step_Title=Start manufacturing: saponification and molding
 +
|Step_Content=For this step there are two methods: cold saponification and hot saponification. The method of the video tutorial is cold, that of the photos on the opposite hot. Both methods are detailed here.
 +
 
 +
==== Cold saponification ====
 +
 
 +
* Pour the oil and the soda solution into the blender.
 +
* Mix until you get the trace, that is, when the mixture thickens and the mixer blade leaves a mark after the mix stops.
 +
* Place the mixture in a mold. A coconut shell lined with a clean cloth does the trick. Let stand at least 24h. The saponification reaction continues for several days after molding.
 +
* Unwash the soap, cut it to the desired size and store it dry for at least 4 weeks.
 +
* Test the pH of the soap. To do this, take a small piece of soap and dissolve it in lukewarm fresh water. Dip a small piece of pH paper into the solution. The pH of the soap should be as low as possible. A pH below 10 is acceptable but it will be best to test the soap on a small area of ​​skin to ensure that it is supported. If the pH is above 10, let the soap dry 2 more weeks and repeat the pH measurement. If the soap is still too basic (pH> 10) it is possible to use it to wash the laundry but to avoid for the skin.
 +
 
 +
==== Hot saponification ====
 +
 
 +
* Pour the oil and the soda solution into a glass jar.
 +
* Place the jar in a bain-marie over medium heat and stir occasionally.
 +
This step may take more than two hours. The two phases (oil and soda solution) will mix and then probably shift after giving a thick mixture. It's normal. Continue heating and stirring until the two phases mingle again.
 +
* Once the reaction is over the passage of the utensil used to stir (wooden spoon for example) leaves a trace. It is then possible to mold the soap. A coconut shell lined with a clean cloth does the trick. Let cool and rest at least 24h.
 +
* Unmould and cut the soap to the desired size.
 +
* Unlike cold saponification, the soap obtained here can be used after cooling. It is still necessary to test its pH.
 +
* Test the pH of the soap. To do this, take a small piece of soap and dissolve it in lukewarm fresh water. Dip a small piece of pH paper into the solution. The pH of the soap should be as low as possible. A pH below 10 is acceptable but it will be best to test the soap on a small area of ​​skin to ensure that it is supported. If the pH is above 10 it is possible to use the soap to wash the laundry but is to be avoided for the skin.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Savon_100%_coco_IMG_6693.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_00=Savon_100%_coco_IMG_6693.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Savon_100%_coco_IMG_6802.JPG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Savon_100%_coco_IMG_6802.JPG
|Step_Title=Lancer la fabrication: saponification et moulage
 
|Step_Content=Pour cette étape il existe deux méthodes: La saponification à froid et la saponification à chaud. La méthode du tuto vidéo se fait à froid, celle des photos ci-contre à chaud. Les deux méthodes sont détaillées ici.
 
 
==== Saponification à froid ====
 
* Verser l'huile puis la solution de soude dans le blender.
 
* Mixer jusqu'à obtention de la trace, c'est-à-dire le moment où le mélange épaissit et la lame du mixeur laisse une trace après arrêt du mixage.
 
* Placer le mélange dans un moule. Une coque de noix de coco tapissée d'un chiffon propre fait bien l'affaire. Laisser reposer au moins 24h. La réaction de saponification continue pendant plusieurs jours après le moulage.
 
* Démouler le savon, le couper à la taille souhaitée et le stocker au sec durant au moins 4 semaines.
 
* Tester le pH du savon. Pour ce faire prélever un petit morceau de savon et le dissoudre dans de l'eau douce tiède. Tremper un petit morceau de papier pH dans la solution. Le pH du savon doit être le plus bas possible. Un pH inférieur à 10 est acceptable mais il sera préférable de tester le savon sur une petite surface de peau afin de s'assurer qu'on le supporte. Si le pH est supérieur à 10, laisser le savon au sec 2 semaines de plus et renouveler la mesure de pH. Si le savon est toujours trop basique (pH>10) il est possible de l'utiliser pour laver le linge mais à éviter pour la peau.
 
 
==== Saponification à chaud ====
 
* Verser l'huile puis la solution de soude dans un bocal en verre.
 
* Placer le bocal au bain-marie à feu moyen et remuer de temps en temps.
 
Cette étape peut prendre plus de deux heures. Les deux phases (huile et solution de soude) vont se mêler puis probablement déphaser après avoir donné un épais mélange. C'est normal. Continuer de chauffer et mélanger jusquà ce que les deux phases se mêlent à nouveau.
 
* Une fois la réaction terminée le passage de l'ustensile utilisé pour remuer (cuillère en bois par exemple) laisse une trace. Il est alors possible de mouler le savon.Une coque de noix de coco tapissée d'un chiffon propre fait bien l'affaire. Laisser refroidir et reposer au moins 24h.
 
* Démouler et couper le savon à la taille souhaitée.
 
* Contrairement à la saponification à froid, le savon obtenu ici peut être utilisé après refroidissement. Il est tout de même nécessaire de tester son pH.
 
* Tester le pH du savon. Pour ce faire prélever un petit morceau de savon et le dissoudre dans de l'eau douce tiède. Tremper un petit morceau de papier pH dans la solution. Le pH du savon doit être le plus bas possible. Un pH inférieur à 10 est acceptable mais il sera préférable de tester le savon sur une petite surface de peau afin de s'assurer qu'on le supporte. Si le pH est supérieur à 10 il est possible d'utiliser le savon pour laver le linge mais est à éviter pour la peau.
 
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Notes}}
+
{{Notes
|Notes=Le tutoriel d'extraction de savon est inspiré de [http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Coconut-Oil-at-Home/ celui de Bob-Bee sur Instructables]
+
|Notes=The soap extraction tutorial is inspired by [http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Coconut-Oil-at-Home/ that of Bob-Bee on Instructables]
* Réalisé par Thomas Piboum et Karel Janik pour Nomade des Mers.
+
* Directed by Thomas Piboum and Karel Janik for Nomade des Mers.
 +
}}
 +
{{PageLang
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}
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{{Tuto Status
|Complete=Yes
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|Complete=Published
 
}}
 
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{{Separator}}

Version actuelle datée du 25 juin 2024 à 16:09

Tutorial de avatarNomade des Mers | Catégories : Hygiène

In areas where the coconut tree (Cocos nucifera) grows, it is possible to produce a soap made out of it.

Licence : Attribution (CC BY)

Introduction

Soap is the basis of hygiene. Washing your hands regularly (and your body) limits the transport of harmful substances and bacteria. To meet this need, it is possible to make soap yourself with basic products. The chemical reaction to make a soap is called saponification and requires two reagents: a fat and a strong base. Here the fat will be coconut oil from the ripe nut (brown), and the strong base will be soda NaOH.

This tutorial will teach you how to make soap from coconut.

Matériaux

  • Coconut
  • Rainwater
  • Soda cristals
  • PH paper

Outils

  • A pot
  • A pan
  • A glass jar
  • Some clean tea towels
  • A kitchen scale
  • A stove
  • A mixer

Étape 1 - Extract coconut oil

The first step is to extract the coconut oil from ripe coconut (brown nuts). Here is the procedure:

  • Open the coconut
  • Scrape the pulp with a scraper if you do not have a mixer-blender. If you own a blender you can detach the pulp from the shell roughly and mix everything.
  • Put the resulting coconut crumbs in a container, cover with hot water and mix well. If you use a blender you can directly cover with hot water and mix.
  • Place a clean towel over a second container and filter the resulting coconut milk. press the cloth tightly to obtain as much filtrate as possible.
  • Place the coconut milk obtained in a plastic bottle and allow to settle until two distinct phases are obtained. We find the coconut cream above and the water below. Drill a small hole in the bottom of the bottle to let the water escape and plug the hole to keep the cream.
  • Pour the cream into a pan and cook over medium heat, stirring. Burnished cream and translucent oil is extracted. This step can take several tens of minutes.
  • Filter the extracted coconut oil.


Étape 2 - Dosing the products

Une fois l'huile de coco extraite on peut mesurer la masse obtenue.

This mass of oil will determine the amount of soda to be added to the oil and thus allow the saponification, that is to say the transformation into soap.

The soda used will be diluted in a given volume of water.

For this simplest step is to use an online calculator. It suffices to specify the nature of the oil used and its mass in order to obtain the quantity of soda and water to use.

Online saponification calculator

Note: In order to obtain the mildest possible soap for the skin, it is necessary to produce a surgras soap. The calculator directly proposes the quantities of soda to obtain a surgras soap at 5%, 10%, etc.

Overgrading is actually reducing the amount of soda so that the chemical reaction is not total. The unreacted oil then enriches the soap with the fatty acid and lowers its pH.

Étape 3 - Prepare the soda solution

Safety instructions regarding the use of caustic soda:

  • Caustic soda is a product that can cause burns. It is therefore advisable to wear a minimum safety equipment.
  • Make sure to wear long clothing, gloves (nitrile or latex, laboratory) and safety glasses, well covered.
  • In case of projection, rinse with white vinegar, do not put under water. So always have a bottle of vinegar in range when you handle soda.
  • To mix two liquids, always pour the most concentrated in the least concentrated to reduce the risk in case of projection.

Once the equipment is on, you can start:

  • Pour the water into a container at the quantity / mass indicated by the calculator. Water having a density of 1, you can use the scale to be precise in the measurements.
  • Weigh the soda in another container to the mass indicated by the calculator. This measure must be as precise as possible. Better to add less soda than too much, to make a soap too fat rather than too basic. If you add the soda directly into the water you will not be able to remove material and correct a too big addition.
  • Gently add the weighed soda to the volume of water and stir gently avoiding any projection. The solution heats up, it's normal.

Étape 4 - Start manufacturing: saponification and molding

For this step there are two methods: cold saponification and hot saponification. The method of the video tutorial is cold, that of the photos on the opposite hot. Both methods are detailed here.

Cold saponification

  • Pour the oil and the soda solution into the blender.
  • Mix until you get the trace, that is, when the mixture thickens and the mixer blade leaves a mark after the mix stops.
  • Place the mixture in a mold. A coconut shell lined with a clean cloth does the trick. Let stand at least 24h. The saponification reaction continues for several days after molding.
  • Unwash the soap, cut it to the desired size and store it dry for at least 4 weeks.
  • Test the pH of the soap. To do this, take a small piece of soap and dissolve it in lukewarm fresh water. Dip a small piece of pH paper into the solution. The pH of the soap should be as low as possible. A pH below 10 is acceptable but it will be best to test the soap on a small area of skin to ensure that it is supported. If the pH is above 10, let the soap dry 2 more weeks and repeat the pH measurement. If the soap is still too basic (pH> 10) it is possible to use it to wash the laundry but to avoid for the skin.

Hot saponification

  • Pour the oil and the soda solution into a glass jar.
  • Place the jar in a bain-marie over medium heat and stir occasionally.

This step may take more than two hours. The two phases (oil and soda solution) will mix and then probably shift after giving a thick mixture. It's normal. Continue heating and stirring until the two phases mingle again.

  • Once the reaction is over the passage of the utensil used to stir (wooden spoon for example) leaves a trace. It is then possible to mold the soap. A coconut shell lined with a clean cloth does the trick. Let cool and rest at least 24h.
  • Unmould and cut the soap to the desired size.
  • Unlike cold saponification, the soap obtained here can be used after cooling. It is still necessary to test its pH.
  • Test the pH of the soap. To do this, take a small piece of soap and dissolve it in lukewarm fresh water. Dip a small piece of pH paper into the solution. The pH of the soap should be as low as possible. A pH below 10 is acceptable but it will be best to test the soap on a small area of skin to ensure that it is supported. If the pH is above 10 it is possible to use the soap to wash the laundry but is to be avoided for the skin.



Notes et références

The soap extraction tutorial is inspired by that of Bob-Bee on Instructables

  • Directed by Thomas Piboum and Karel Janik for Nomade des Mers.

Commentaires

Published