Translations:Poelito - Poêle de masse semi-démontable/139/en-gb : Différence entre versions

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La construction de ce poêle nécessite de nombreux éléments, qui peuvent être achetés neufs ou récupérés.
* Les bidons sont faciles à trouver, sauf les 120 litres qui sont rares ... Pour un bidon neuf compter 50€HT.
* Les tuyaux de poêles qui constituent le foyer se récupèrent très facilement. En neuf ils font monter considérablement le prix de l’appareil.
ATTENTION 1 : les 2 tuyaux nécessaires pour le cendrier (fixe) et l’alimentation (amovible) doivent comporter un emboitement mâle à une extrémité afin de permettre l’adaptation d’un bouchon. ATTENTION 2 : La ligne d’évacuation des fumées doit être réalisée dans les règles de l’art, avec des tuyaux compatibles entre eux. Il faut éviter les fuites (de fumées certes, mais aussi de condensats) et le risque d’incendie.
* Le béton peut être constitué de sable et de ciment fondu, mais il sera moins durable qu’un béton de chamotte/ciment fondu. La chamotte est de la brique réfractaire pilée : elle doit comporter 25 à 40% d’alumine. Se rapprocher des fabricants de briques réfractaires (voir liste en annexe). Une granulométrie de 0 à 10 mm est idéale, 0 à 5 mm est aussi appropriée.
EVITEZ de réaliser un béton de ciment normal ou de ciment noir (dépourvu d’alumine au contraire du fondu).
* La vermiculite : mélangée au ciment elle permet d’isoler le fond du bidon. On la trouve en magasin de construction ou d’horticulture sous les appellations « vermex » et « effiperl » notamment. Ce dernier contient aussi de la perlite.
* Le verre céramique : c’est un verre spécial qui ne subit aucune dilatation sous l’effet de la chaleur. Il résiste aux chocs thermiques de 800°C ! On le trouve dans le commerce (compter 400 à 600€/m²) mais aussi sur les vieux inserts, sur les plaques de cuisson électriques, sur les portes de four (vitre intérieure seulement, souvent peu résistante). N’utilisez pas du verre normal ! Pour tester votre verre de récup, placez-vous sur une surface plane, posez votre vitre sur un réchaud à gaz de camping. Si elle tient le feu c’est bon signe. Finalisez le crash test en versant dessus un bon verre d’eau froide ! Si c’est du verre ad hoc ça ne bronche pas. Ne vous mettez pas dans l'herbe, au cas où ça casse !

TraductionThere are a number of items that are needed to build this stove, which can either be bought from new or salvaged.
* The drums are easy to obtain, apart from the 120 litre ones, which are rare... and it can cost 50€ (excluding taxes) to buy one of this size from new.
* The stove pipes, which form the fire pit, are very easy to salvage and will be considerably more expensive if bought from new.
NB 1: the 2 pipes that are used for the (fixed) ash tray and the (removable) feed pipe must have a male fitting at one of their ends to accommodate the stopper.
NB 2: A rigorous approach must be adopted when producing the exhaust system, using pipes which are compatible with one another. It is important to avoid leaks (condensates as well as smoke) and also the risk of fire .
* Concrete can be made up of sand and fire cement but this will not be as durable as using chamotte concrete/fire cement. Chamotte consists of ground-up fire brick and must contain 25 to 40% alumina. To contact manufacturers of fire bricks, see list in the annex.Grain size of 0 to 10 mm grade is ideal, but 0 to 5 mm can also be used.
AVOID making concrete with ordinary cement or ‘black’ cement (unlike fire cement, it does not contain alumina)
* Vermiculite: mixed with cement acts to insulate the bottom of the container. You can find this in builder's merchants and garden centres mostly under the names of “Vermex” or “Effiperl” (NB the latter also contains perlite and is a French brand)
* Ceramic glass: this is specialist glass which does not expand when exposed to heat and is resistant to thermal shocks of up to 800°C ! You can buy it in the shops (for about €400 to €600 per m²) but you can also salvage it from old inserts, electric hobs, oven doors (inner glass only, otherwise it is likely to have little resistance to heat). Do not use ordinary glass ! To test salvaged glass, stand on a flat surface and put the glass onto a gas camping stove. If it resists the heat, then that is a good sign.
The final thing to do for the ‘crash test’ is pour a glass of cold water over it. If there is no reaction, then it is specialist glass. Do not put it on the grass in case it breaks.

There are a number of items that are needed to build this stove, which can either be bought from new or salvaged.

The drums are easy to obtain, apart from the 120 litre ones, which are rare... and it can cost 50€ (excluding taxes) to buy one of this size from new.
The stove pipes, which form the fire pit, are very easy to salvage and will be considerably more expensive if bought from new.

NB 1: the 2 pipes that are used for the (fixed) ash tray and the (removable) feed pipe must have a male fitting at one of their ends to accommodate the stopper. NB 2: A rigorous approach must be adopted when producing the exhaust system, using pipes which are compatible with one another. It is important to avoid leaks (condensates as well as smoke) and also the risk of fire .

Concrete can be made up of sand and fire cement but this will not be as durable as using chamotte concrete/fire cement. Chamotte consists of ground-up fire brick and must contain 25 to 40% alumina. To contact manufacturers of fire bricks, see list in the annex.Grain size of 0 to 10 mm grade is ideal, but 0 to 5 mm can also be used.

AVOID making concrete with ordinary cement or ‘black’ cement (unlike fire cement, it does not contain alumina)

Vermiculite: mixed with cement acts to insulate the bottom of the container. You can find this in builder's merchants and garden centres mostly under the names of “Vermex” or “Effiperl” (NB the latter also contains perlite and is a French brand)
Ceramic glass: this is specialist glass which does not expand when exposed to heat and is resistant to thermal shocks of up to 800°C ! You can buy it in the shops (for about €400 to €600 per m²) but you can also salvage it from old inserts, electric hobs, oven doors (inner glass only, otherwise it is likely to have little resistance to heat). Do not use ordinary glass ! To test salvaged glass, stand on a flat surface and put the glass onto a gas camping stove. If it resists the heat, then that is a good sign.

The final thing to do for the ‘crash test’ is pour a glass of cold water over it. If there is no reaction, then it is specialist glass. Do not put it on the grass in case it breaks.

@@ Ligne 8 : / Ligne 8 : @@
 * Vermiculite: mixed with cement acts to insulate the bottom of the container. You can find this in builder's merchants and garden centres mostly under the names of “Vermex” or “Effiperl” (NB the latter also contains perlite and is a French brand)
 * Ceramic glass: this is specialist glass which does not expand when exposed to heat and is resistant to thermal shocks of up to 800°C ! You can buy it in the shops (for about €400 to €600 per m²)  but you can also salvage it from old inserts, electric hobs, oven doors (inner glass only, otherwise it is likely to have little resistance to heat). Do not use ordinary glass ! To test salvaged glass, stand on a flat surface and put the glass onto a gas camping stove. If it resists the heat, then that is a good sign.
-The final thing to do is the ‘crash test’ which is done by pouring a glass of cold water over it. If there is no reaction, then  it is specialist glass. Do not put it on the grass in case it breaks.
+The final thing to do for the ‘crash test’ is pour a glass of cold water over it. If there is no reaction, then  it is specialist glass. Do not put it on the grass in case it breaks.