Participatory Science: The Misting Shower

BIOSPHERE EXPERIENCE

https://wiki.lowtechlab.org/wiki/Sciences_Participatives_:_La_douche_%C3%A0_brumisation/en

Dernière modification le 03/11/2025

Difficulty

Easy Easy

Duration

3 hour(s) hour(s)

Cost

23 EUR (€)

Description

This tutorial was created for mission #4 “The misting shower” as part of the participatory science programme led by the Biosphère Expérience association. It details the steps for assembling the misting shower kit to be completed before 31 August 2024, as well as the protocol followed by volunteers during the experiment week from 9 to 15 September 2024.

Summary

Douche

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Introduction

Project Overview

Alongside the urban experiment conducted in Boulogne Billancourt by Caroline Pultz, Corentin de Chatelperron, and neighbours, Emma Bousquet-Pasturel initiated a participatory science programme to assess the relevance of eight low-tech systems and practices in the daily lives of citizens, businesses, and schools both in France and abroad. A total of 699 experiments were carried out between September and October 2024. These citizen-led trials enabled the collection of a wide range of technical, ergonomic, sociological, and psychological data on the implementation and everyday use of these low-tech solutions.

An experience report and scientific publications detailing these experiments are currently being written and will be available soon.

Mission #4: The Misting Shower

In early September, 170 individuals took part in the misting shower experiment. Including all household members of the volunteers, a total of 234 people participated!

The mission involved building and testing a new shower system combining water-saving, pleasure, and well-being. The misting shower kit replaces the traditional showerhead with nozzles that spray water at a lower flow rate.

We offer three different versions: Assembly A with two soda bottles, Assembly B with a jerry can, and Assembly C without a container, directly attached to the tap.

For all three versions, simply unscrew the showerhead and connect the supply hose to this shower system. For Assemblies A and B, once the containers are filled with very hot water, the user switches to cold water and the shower can begin. The cold water pushes the hot water towards the nozzles, gradually cooling the water in the container. The shower transitions from very hot, to warm, and finally to cold water. Assembly C has no intermediary container; you will only experience the reduced water flow through the nozzles. We recommend lowering the temperature of your shower water.

We suggest testing Assemblies A or B for a more immersive experience. These options also allow you to monitor your hot water consumption. You will choose and build only one of the three assemblies, following the relevant instructions. Feel free to use materials you have available!

Objectives

We wanted to verify that reducing water consumption is compatible with the comfort and pleasure expected from a shower.

With a universal showerhead, a 1-litre bucket fills in 15 seconds. With the nozzles used in this tutorial, it takes 1 minute and 15 seconds!

Find the experiment procedure in the "Files" section of the tutorial.

Youtube

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Materials

This is a comprehensive list of materials. If you already have some of these items, we recommend buying second-hand and adjusting their diameters and sizes throughout the tutorial.

• 900 mm of wood
• 4 screws (here, 4.5 mm and 4 mm diameter)
• 1 stainless steel threaded rod, 6 mm diameter, 200 mm long
• 2 butterfly nuts
• Approx. 5 metres of 6 mm outer diameter hose
• 2 nozzles [n°1]
• 2 valves/taps [n°3]
• 1 tap connector cap [n°4]
• 1 suitable seal for the inside of the connector cap [n°5]?
• 1 5-litre jerry can [n°2] OR 2 x 2-litre soda bottles OR nothing, for the direct version
• 1 hose connector [n°6]
• 1 hook [n°7]
• Cords / Elastics / Suction cups for fixing the system

Tools

This is an exhaustive list of tools to be adapted based on what you already have.

• 6.5 mm wood drill bit
• 2.5 mm wood drill bit (adapt to your screws)
• 5 mm wood drill bit
• 5 mm metal drill bit
• Drill / screwdriver
• Hand saw or jigsaw
• Metal saw or angle grinder
• Tape measure
• Sandpaper
• Scissors
• Hammer
• Pliers
• Lighter
• DIY gloves
• Safety glasses

Mission_D_Mission_4_Douche_a_brumisation.pdf

Step 1 - Get Started!

Choosing Your Assembly

• Assemblies A and B are ideal if you heat your shower water with a kettle. Otherwise, Assembly C is more practical and ergonomic for everyday use (based on volunteer feedback).

Additional Information

• For more details on the citizen experiments, consult the experience report (in progress).

• This tutorial has been updated by Emma Bousquet-Pasturel, including results, suggestions for improvement, and volunteer feedback from data analysis.

• Join the Facebook group "Biosphère - Douche brumisante" dedicated to this practice to facilitate organisation (group purchases, local meet-ups) and exchanges with other experimenters.

Step 2 - Purchasing Materials

• On average, volunteers spent €23 to build the device. This budget varies depending on the chosen assembly and material type.

• Before making any purchases, we strongly advise you to read the entire tutorial, as the list of materials may vary from one assembly to another.

• All the materials needed to build this kit can be found in DIY, gardening or fabric stores.

• We were unable to find a more ethical source for the nozzles than Amazon. If you find an alternative, please let us know. Not all spray nozzles are the same, so for this experiment, please use the specified reference: https://amzn.eu/d/aoF8fl2

Step 3 - Tips and precautions

Secure your workspace and organise your tools efficiently before starting construction.

• Use tools in good condition and suited to the tasks.
• Read tool instructions carefully and pay attention to packaging pictograms.
• Work in a clear, ventilated, well-lit area.
• Wear necessary protective equipment: gloves, shoes, goggles, clothing, helmet, protective mask, ear protection.
• Disconnect electric tools and close containers when not in use.
• Seek help if handling heavy loads (tools, materials, etc.).

This is a non-exhaustive list of tips and precautions.

Step 4 - Wooden Structure

Common to Assemblies A, B, and C:

Cut 4 wooden battens to the following lengths — here, we used a 26 x 43 mm batten — (see photo 1):

• Batten A: 300 mm
• Batten B: 300 mm
• Batten C: 240 mm
• Batten D: 50 mm

Batten Assembly A, B, C

• Stack battens A and B and use clamps to hold them in place (see photo 3).
• Pre-drill, then drill through the entire length of battens A and B (see photos 2 and 3). Drilling is done at one end of the battens. Here, we first used a 2.5 mm drill bit, then a 6.5 mm bit.
• Stack battens B and C and use clamps to hold them in position (see photo 3).
• Pre-drill, then drill through the entire length of batten C using the hole in batten B as a guide (see photos 2 and 3).
• Insert the threaded rod through the 6.5 mm hole. Here, we used a 6 mm threaded rod. If needed, cut the threaded rod so that about 2 cm protrudes from each side of the battens (see photo 5). We used a grinder for this, but a hacksaw will also work. Before performing this operation, make sure to screw on the wing nut first, as it may not fit afterward

• Screw the second wing nut on the opposite side of the threaded rod. You don’t need to tighten the nuts too much.

Battens A, B, D (see photo 6)

• Insert batten D between battens A and B.
• Pre-drill, then screw A to D, and B to D. Use clamps to hold them in position as before. Here, a 2.5 mm drill bit is used for 4 mm screws.

Do not use screws that are too long or too short.

Step 5 - Cutting the Tubes

Setup A

Using scissors, you can cut the tubes to the following lengths:

Caution before cutting! We suggest general tube lengths, but each low-tech device should be adapted to its specific context. Please check whether you need more or less length, especially for tubes 5 and 6.

• Tube 1: 370 mm
• Tube 2: 70 mm
• Tube 3: 70 mm
• Tube 4: 1400 mm
• Tube 5: 1500 mm
• Tube 6: 1800 mm
• Tube 7: 420 mm

For tubes 5, 6, and 7, an extra 10 to 20 mm is included to allow for connections (Step 8: Kit Assembly).

Assembly B

Using scissors, you can cut the tubes to the following lengths:

Caution before cutting! We suggest general tube lengths, but each low-tech device should be adapted to its specific context. Please check whether you need more or less length, especially for tubes 5 or 6.

• Tube 1: 370 mm
• Tube 2: 70 mm
• Tube 3: 70 mm
• Tube 4: 1400 mm
• Tube 5: 1500 mm
• Tube 6: 1800 mm

For tube 6, an extra 10 to 20 mm is included to allow for connections (Step 8: Kit Assembly).

Assembly C

Using scissors, you can cut the tubes to the following lengths:

Caution before cutting! We suggest general tube lengths, but each low-tech device should be adapted to its specific context. Please check whether you need more or less length, especially for tubes 5 or 6.

• Tube 1: 370 mm
• Tube 2: 70 mm
• Tube 3: 70 mm
• Tube 4: 1400 mm
• Tube 5: 1000 mm

For tube 5, an extra 10 to 20 mm is included to allow for connections (Step 8: Kit Assembly).

Step 6 - Preparation

Assembly A

1) Preparing the two bottle caps (see photo 1)

For drilling, we recommend drilling from the inside to avoid damaging the threads.

• Drill two 5 mm diameter holes into the caps of both bottles.

Why is it important to use soda bottles? Because they are designed to withstand pressure — in this case, the water pressure coming from the shower tap.

2) Preparing the connecting cap (see photo 5)

Using a screw, or a pointed metal bit and a hammer, make a small mark at the center of the connecting cap. This mark will help prevent the drill from slipping when using the 5 mm bit. You can now start drilling!

Setup B

1) Preparing the jerrycan cap (see photos 2, 3, and 4)

We recommend finding the same type of jerrycan as the one shown in the photo, as it is strong enough at the seal to handle the pressure.

For drilling, we recommend drilling from the inside to avoid damaging the threads.

• Drill two 5 mm diameter holes in the jerrycan cap (see photo 3).
• Drill one 5 mm diameter hole at the base of the pouring spout (see photo 4). This allows hot water to be drawn from the surface rather than the colder water at the bottom of the jerrycan. Be careful with the positioning of this hole: when you screw the yellow spout onto your jerrycan, the hole should be facing upward so the water can drain properly.

2) Preparing the connecting cap (see photo 5)

Using a screw, or a pointed metal bit and a hammer, make a small mark at the center of the connecting cap. This mark will help prevent the drill from slipping when using the 5 mm bit. You can now start drilling!

Assembly C

1) Preparing the connecting cap (see photo 5)

Using a screw, or a pointed metal bit and a hammer, make a small mark at the center of the connecting cap. This mark will help prevent the drill from slipping when using the 5 mm bit.

You can now start drilling!

Step 7 - Kit Assembly

Assembly A (see photo 1)

Let’s start with the hand shower (the low-tech handheld showerhead!). You can insert a nozzle at one end of hose 4, and at the other end, insert a valve connected to hose 3. Don’t hesitate to push firmly to insert the hoses well into the nozzle or valve. This will prevent the assembly from coming apart under pressure. You’ve just completed the showerhead section!

From hose 3, insert a hose connector:

• At the top of the connector, insert hose 2, a valve, and then hose 1 connected to the misting nozzle. Hose 1 passes through the two holes of batten C.
• At the bottom of the connector, insert hose 5. Insert the other end of hose 5 into the first bottle through one of the holes in the cap. The hose diameter (6 mm) is larger than that of the hole (5 mm), which ensures a watertight connection. Let hose 5 extend about 5 cm into the bottle.
• In the same way, insert hose 6 to the bottom of the first bottle through the second hole in the cap.
• Repeat the same steps for hoses 7 and 6. Insert the end of hose 6 into the pre-drilled connector cap.

To insert hoses 5, 6, and 7 into the holes in the caps, we recommend cutting the ends of the hoses at an angle (see photo 5) before inserting them. You can then use pliers to pull them through a bit more. For hoses 5, 6, and 7, extra length has been provided so you can trim off the deformed ends afterward.

Finally, connect the shower kit to your water supply! Simply unscrew your regular handheld showerhead (keep it safe for later) and attach hose 6’s connector to your shower hose (see photo 6).

Assembly B (see photos 2 and 3)

Let’s start with the hand shower (the low-tech handheld showerhead!). You can insert a nozzle at one end of hose 4, and at the other end, insert a valve connected to hose 3. Don’t hesitate to push firmly to insert the hoses well into the nozzle or valve. This will prevent the assembly from coming apart under pressure. You’ve just completed the showerhead section!

From hose 3, insert a hose connector:

• At the top of the connector, insert hose 2, a valve, and then hose 1 connected to the misting nozzle. Hose 1 passes through the two holes of wooden block C.
• At the bottom of the connector, insert hose 5. Insert the other end of hose 5 into one of the holes in the jerrycan. The hose diameter (6 mm) is larger than that of the hole (5 mm), which ensures a watertight connection. Let hose 5 extend about 5 cm into the jerrycan.
• In the same way, insert hose 6 to the bottom of the jerrycan through the second hole in the cap. Insert the end of hose 6 into the pre-drilled connector cap.

To insert hoses 5 and 6 into the holes in the caps, we recommend cutting the ends of the hoses at an angle (see photo 5) before inserting them. You can then use pliers to pull them through a bit more. For hoses 5 and 6, extra length has been provided so you can trim off the deformed ends afterward.

Finally, connect the shower kit to your water supply! Simply unscrew your regular handheld showerhead (keep it safe for later) and attach hose 6’s connector to your shower hose (see photo 6).

Assembly C (see photo 4)

Let’s start with the hand shower (the low-tech handheld showerhead!). You can insert a nozzle at one end of hose 4, and at the other end, insert a valve connected to hose 3. Don’t hesitate to push firmly to insert the hoses well into the nozzle or valve. This will prevent the assembly from coming apart under pressure. You’ve just completed the showerhead section!

From hose 3, insert a hose connector:

• At the top of the connector, insert hose 2, a valve, and then hose 1 connected to the misting nozzle. Hose 1 passes through the two holes of wooden block C.
• At the bottom of the connector, insert hose 5. Insert the end of hose 5 into the pre-drilled connector cap.

To insert hose 6 into the hole in the pre-drilled connector, we recommend cutting the end of the hose at an angle (see photo 5) before inserting it. You can then use pliers to pull it through a bit more. For hose 6, extra length has been provided so you can trim off the deformed end afterward.

Finally, connect the shower kit to your water supply! Simply unscrew your regular handheld showerhead (keep it safe for later) and attach hose 6’s connector to your shower hose (see photo 6).

Step 8 - Setting up your shower

1) How to hang it?

As mentioned earlier, each low-tech system adapts to its own context and environment. How you hang your shower will depend on your shower or bathtub setup. Here are some ideas for the most common systems that you can adapt as needed:

• If you have a vertical bar or an overhead hook system: use a rope to hang the kit from the vertical bar.
• If you don’t have that setup but have tiled walls, you can use suction cups.

2) Now that your shower is installed, you can adjust the nozzles!

• Use the handheld shower (hose 4) as a precise showerhead. You can adjust the spray of the nozzle using the knobs.
• Use hose 1 as a misting showerhead by adjusting the nozzle knobs.

Step 9 - Installing the hook for the handheld shower

You can choose the height at which you want to install the hook to hang the showerhead!

Fixing the hook is simple: just screw it onto the wooden frame (see photo).

Congratulations — you’ve built your own misting shower system!

Step 10 - User guide

We’ve provided a short user guide to help you during your first misting shower experience. Feel free to share your feedback or any tips you discover!

Assemblies A and B

1. Adjust the orientation of the showerhead (hose 1).
2. Unscrew the kit from your shower hose.
3. Turn on the water (it will come out of the hose) and set it to the hottest position. Before the hot water arrives, don’t waste this precious resource — you can collect it in a bucket, for instance, and reuse it later.
4. When the water becomes hot, connect your shower hose to the connector cap. At this point, the container (bottles or jerrycan) will start filling up. Check that the kit valves are fully open (parallel to the black hose).
5. When the water starts coming out of the nozzles, switch to the coldest position. You can now use the hand shower to wet and warm your body before applying soap.
6. Turn off your shower water supply while using soap or shampoo. If you forget to close your faucet, pressure may build up in the container and cause a hose to pop off!
7. You can now use the hand shower to rinse yourself, and finish off with the upper nozzle for a gentle misting effect.

Assembly C

1. Adjust the orientation of the showerhead (hose 1).
2. Turn on the water and set it to your desired temperature. Before the hot water arrives, don’t waste this precious resource — collect it in a bucket, for instance, and reuse it later.
3. Use the hand shower to wet and warm your body before applying soap.
4. Turn off your shower water supply while using soap or shampoo.
5. You can now use the hand shower to rinse yourself, and finish with the upper nozzle for a misting effect.

How to reuse grey water?

You can reuse the cold water from the start of your shower, and also the water remaining in the containers afterward, for:

- Watering plants

- Moistening the vegetable drawer

- Filling the toilet tank

- Washing clothes

- Cleaning floors and windows

- Reheating the leftover shower water in a pot for the next shower

Step 11 - Feedback & Improvement Ideas

Feedback

• The misting shower allowed volunteers to reduce their water consumption by a factor of five.
• About 75% of participants found the shower effective for washing their body, and most said it also worked for washing hair.
• Easy to adapt to any shower, the system generally integrated well into the daily routines of volunteers.
• While many enjoyed the shower sensations, the misted water can feel cooler than usual.

Improvement ideas suggested and/or tested by some volunteers

• Increase the number of nozzles to improve thermal comfort
• Add a valve to switch between misting mode and classic shower mode
• Add a small water heater near the shower
• Use it only during summer
• Modify connections to prevent leaks
• Use a nozzle with a wider spray for easier hair washing
• Improve the system design (add a soap holder or a better showerhead)
• Use higher-quality materials
• Create an enclosed shower space to improve comfort
• Adapt the misting principle for household taps

This is an excerpt from the full experience report. You’ll be able to find more details there (coming soon).

Step 12 - FAQ

• What are the pros and cons of the different assemblies?

Assemblies A and B allow you to monitor your hot water consumption. However, they take more time to build and are slightly more complex to use than Assembly C (which has no intermediate container).

• What is the advantage of using a jerrycan instead of soda bottles?

A jerrycan has a higher capacity than a soda bottle. The one proposed also makes it easier to reuse the leftover cold water at the end of the shower (thanks to the spout). You can also leave it in the sun to heat the water inside without deforming it.

• Why switch to a misting shower?

According to participatory science results, this shower saves up to 68% of water compared to a conventional shower.

• Over time, doesn’t the wood need treatment against mold?

Here are some treatments suggested by participants:

- Apply linseed oil mixed with turpentine (3 coats with varying dilution)

- Lightly burn the wood surface

- Remove the wooden structure altogether

• Can the nozzles be purchased somewhere other than Amazon?

After testing several types, the one found on Amazon was the most suitable. Unfortunately, we haven’t found other suppliers offering the same model. If you know of alternatives, feel free to share them in the comments.

• How to avoid leaks and hoses popping off under pressure?

- Use two seals

- Apply Teflon tape

- Add silicone inside the cap

- Glue the hoses to the small valves and nozzles

- Secure with a metal wire or twist tie

- Reduce tap pressure: city networks are around 3 bars — cut it in half to reach about 1 bar

- Install a pressure reducer

• How to fix the system if you don’t have a shower rod or bar?

You can use a suction cup to hold the system on your tiles or a glass wall.

• How to prevent the jerrycan (Assembly A) from inflating too quickly?

Keep the jerrycan cap open while filling. Once full, close both the water inlet tap and the jerrycan cap.

• How to prevent bottles from bursting under pressure?

- Use soda bottles (they are designed to withstand pressure)

- Use jerrycans, which are even more resistant (see tutorial photo)

• How to switch easily between the standard showerhead and the misting system?

You can install a 2- or 3-way valve or diverter to easily switch between the two. An example of a valve. An example: vanne.

• How to prevent the semi-rigid hose from popping out of the bottle caps under pressure?

Insert a small inner tube (e.g., brass) to reinforce rigidity.

• I can’t get the 6 mm hose through the 5 mm hole (connector cap, see step 6).

You can enlarge the hole slightly, but beware of leaks!

• Water flows from the nozzle for about 20 seconds, then stops...

- The outlet hose should not reach the bottom of the jerrycan — it must be as high as possible. The hose reaching the bottom corresponds to the cold-water inlet (see photo 3, step 7).

- Check that your cold-water tap is open when you shower.

• I have no hot water when I use the shower (Assembly C), even though I do at the sink.

Your water heater might not start if the shower flow rate is too low.

• Why does hot water take longer to arrive (Assembly C)?

Because the nozzles’ flow rate is very low, hot water takes much longer to reach the outlet than usual. Collect the cold water in a container, then connect the misting shower once the water becomes hot.

• Comment avoir une sensation de chaud sous la douche ?

You can adjust your nozzles! A wider spray creates more spaced-out droplets, giving a cooler feeling. A narrower spray concentrates the droplets, producing a noticeably warmer sensation.

Notes and references

• If you’re interested in household resource-saving practices, check out Clément Chabot and Sandra Martins’ collection “Cap vers l’autonomie,” Rustica Editions, 2024.
• If you’re curious about the benefits of cold showers, visit:

Les 10 bienfaits de la douche froide - Améliore ta Santé (amelioretasante.com)

Document written by Emma Bousquet-Pasturel and Zoé Moreels as part of the Biosphère Expérience participatory science program.

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