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{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}
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{{Tuto Details
|SourceLanguage=fr
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|Main_Picture=Poelito_-_Poêle_de_masse_semi-démontable_Poelito.jpg
|Language=en-gb
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|Main_Picture_annotation={"version":"3.5.0","objects":[{"type":"image","version":"3.5.0","originX":"left","originY":"top","left":-3,"top":-1,"width":746,"height":531,"fill":"rgb(0,0,0)","stroke":null,"strokeWidth":0,"strokeDashArray":null,"strokeLineCap":"butt","strokeDashOffset":0,"strokeLineJoin":"miter","strokeMiterLimit":4,"scaleX":0.8,"scaleY":0.8,"angle":0,"flipX":false,"flipY":false,"opacity":1,"shadow":null,"visible":true,"clipTo":null,"backgroundColor":"","fillRule":"nonzero","paintFirst":"fill","globalCompositeOperation":"source-over","transformMatrix":null,"skewX":0,"skewY":0,"crossOrigin":"","cropX":0,"cropY":0,"src":"https://wiki.lowtechlab.org/images/b/b8/Poelito_-_Po%C3%AAle_de_masse_semi-d%C3%A9montable_Poelito.jpg","filters":[]}],"height":426.9230769230769,"width":600}
|IsTranslation=1
 
|Main_Picture=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_Ilustration.png
 
 
|Licences=Attribution-ShareAlike (CC BY-SA)
 
|Licences=Attribution-ShareAlike (CC BY-SA)
 
|Description=Semi-removable inertia mass stove.
 
|Description=Semi-removable inertia mass stove.
 
  
 
A mass storage stove or ‘heat storage stove’ is a primary heating device.
 
A mass storage stove or ‘heat storage stove’ is a primary heating device.
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|Cost=300
 
|Cost=300
 
|Currency=EUR (€)
 
|Currency=EUR (€)
|Tags=poêle de masse, chauffage, inertie, habitat léger, nomade, poêle, rocket stove, combustion, Low-tech Tour France
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|Tags=poêle de masse, chauffage, inertie, poêle, rocket stove, Low-tech Tour France, chaleur, stove, rocket mass heater, poelito
 
|SourceLanguage=fr
 
|SourceLanguage=fr
 
|Language=en-gb
 
|Language=en-gb
 
|IsTranslation=1
 
|IsTranslation=1
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}
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{{Introduction
|Introduction=The Poelito is a wood-burning inertia stove for small and/or non-fixed dwellings (e.g. motor homes, yurts, caravans, mobile homes, narrow boats etc.). Such dwellings have the following characteristics:
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|Introduction=<div class="mw-translate-fuzzy">
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The Poelito is a wood-burning inertia stove for small and/or non-fixed dwellings (e.g. motor homes, yurts, caravans, mobile homes, narrow boats etc.). Such dwellings have the following characteristics:
 
-  they are less spacious inside and therefore only need a small amount of power to heat. Because of this, a conventional stove is often excessive as it heats the space up too quickly. It therefore needs to burn when it is not giving any real benefit which leads to pollution, soot deposits and poor performance.
 
-  they are less spacious inside and therefore only need a small amount of power to heat. Because of this, a conventional stove is often excessive as it heats the space up too quickly. It therefore needs to burn when it is not giving any real benefit which leads to pollution, soot deposits and poor performance.
 
- Inertia is low which means that there is very little mass that can absorb excess heat and later release it. It therefore gets cold quickly once the source of heat has gone. A storage heater is the perfect answer to these problems.It stores a vast amount of heat and only needs to be burning for 2 hours every 12 to 24 hours;
 
- Inertia is low which means that there is very little mass that can absorb excess heat and later release it. It therefore gets cold quickly once the source of heat has gone. A storage heater is the perfect answer to these problems.It stores a vast amount of heat and only needs to be burning for 2 hours every 12 to 24 hours;
 
therefore the fire needs to be maintained for less time and heat can be given out over longer periods.
 
therefore the fire needs to be maintained for less time and heat can be given out over longer periods.
 +
</div>
  
 +
Pour les volontaires, inscrivez vous par ici : https://cloud.retzien.fr/index.php/apps/forms/3oHSjHD7225sfS9M}}
  
It works on the basis of  combining  “mass” with “portability”: the sand, which can be easily taken out, provides some of the inertia. If the stove is emptied out then it is easier to move. Whilst in use, the Rocket stove has a vertical feed mechanism which means wood can be supplied to it automatically using gravity. During combustion, the flame is sucked sideways across the bottom which allows air to be supplied from above the fuel. It is an original design guaranteeing efficiency but needs supervision when in use.  
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Le Poelito est un poêle à bois à inertie destiné aux habitats de petites dimensions et/ou légers (camion, yourte, caravane, mobil home, péniche …). Ces habitats sont caractérisés par :
 +
- une petite surface à chauffer, donc une faible puissance de chauffe requise. De ce fait un poêle habituel est souvent surdimensionné car il fait vite trop chaud. L’habitant l’utilise donc au ralenti, ce qui induit encrassement, pollution et performances médiocres.
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- une faible inertie, c'est-à-dire peu de masse permettant d’absorber la chaleur excédentaire pour la restituer plus tard. Il y fait donc rapidement froid après l’extinction des sources de chaleur. Un poêle à accumulation correspond parfaitement à ces contraintes. Il stocke beaucoup de chaleur, permettant de faire seulement 2h de feu toutes les 12 à 24 heures. Limitant ainsi la durée d’entretien du feu et permettant un chauffage sur de longues périodes.
 +
 
 +
It works on the basis of  combining  “mass” with “portability”: the sand, which can be easily taken out, provides some of the inertia. If the stove is emptied out then it is easier to move. Whilst in use, the Rocket stove has a vertical feed mechanism which means wood can be supplied to it automatically using gravity. During combustion, the flame is sucked sideways across the bottom which allows air to be supplied from above the fuel. It is an original design guaranteeing efficiency but needs supervision when in use.
  
 
This tutorial has been produced by David Mercereau. This is a transcript of work carried out by Vital BIES, who are at the forefront of the idea behind the design of the Poelito and authors of the manual : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SDJ3YHpDVMU- OoX5gND9xs4qdx8HZaNJ/view.
 
This tutorial has been produced by David Mercereau. This is a transcript of work carried out by Vital BIES, who are at the forefront of the idea behind the design of the Poelito and authors of the manual : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SDJ3YHpDVMU- OoX5gND9xs4qdx8HZaNJ/view.
 
We would like to thank them for the work they have done for our community. Only the construction and operating instructions are included in this tutorial. Additional options are covered in the Vital manual which include the doors providing access for cleaning and adding extra features such as heated seating or a water heater. We will also not be covering the openings from which the sand is removed as this will add to the complexity of building it. The sand can be removed at any time from the top of the stove.
 
We would like to thank them for the work they have done for our community. Only the construction and operating instructions are included in this tutorial. Additional options are covered in the Vital manual which include the doors providing access for cleaning and adding extra features such as heated seating or a water heater. We will also not be covering the openings from which the sand is removed as this will add to the complexity of building it. The sand can be removed at any time from the top of the stove.
 +
 +
This English translation has been possible thanks to the PerMondo project: Free translation of website and documents for non-profit organisations. A project managed by Mondo Agit. Translator: Gill Barringer. Whilst great efforts have been made to ensure the quality of this translation, the translator makes no guarantees and will accept no liability for any claims made against her in the event of any misinterpretation, errors or omissions thereof.
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'''Find in [https://lowtechlab.org/assets/files/rapport-experimentation-habitat-low-tech-low-tech-lab.pdf this report] an analysis for the use of this poelito, as well as the 11 other low-techs experimented during the project En Quete d'un Habitat Durable (In Search of a Sustainable Habitat)'''
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|TutoVideo}}
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{{TutoVideo
|TutoVideoService=youtube
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|VideoType=Youtube
|TutoVideoURL=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rO7M41Ud78A
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|VideoURLYoutube=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rO7M41Ud78A
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}
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{{Materials
|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_liste_materiel_1.png
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|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_PITO_200_installation.PNG
 
|Step_Picture_01=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_liste_materiel_1.png
 
|Step_Picture_01=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_liste_materiel_1.png
 +
|Step_Picture_02=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_liste_materiel_2.png
 
|Material='''Metalwork'''
 
|Material='''Metalwork'''
 
* Metal drum
 
* Metal drum
* Pipework (tubes of differing diameters and T-tube)  
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* Pipework (tubes of differing diameters and T-tube)  
 
* Sewer grate
 
* Sewer grate
  
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* Ear defenders/ earplugs,
 
* Ear defenders/ earplugs,
 
* Dust masks  
 
* Dust masks  
* First aid kit containing saline solution in case cements gets into eyes.  
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* First aid kit containing saline solution in case cements gets into eyes.
  
 
'''For Marking/Measuring: '''
 
'''For Marking/Measuring: '''
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* Wire brush for drill
 
* Wire brush for drill
 
* Angle grinder + cutting, grinding and flap disks,
 
* Angle grinder + cutting, grinding and flap disks,
* Sander (optional)  
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* Sander (optional)
  
 
'''Concrete:'''
 
'''Concrete:'''
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* Scissors,  
 
* Scissors,  
 
* Handsaw
 
* Handsaw
 +
|Tuto_Attachments={{Tuto Attachments
 +
|Attachment=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_Expo-Poelito.pdf
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}
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}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
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{{Tuto Step
|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_cout_fournitures.png
 
 
|Step_Title=Provision of Materials
 
|Step_Title=Provision of Materials
 
|Step_Content=There are a number of items that are needed to build this stove, which can either be bought from new or salvaged.
 
|Step_Content=There are a number of items that are needed to build this stove, which can either be bought from new or salvaged.
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In this image, you will find the average supply costs for the different models.  Taking the drum and the smoke exhaust out of the equation, the pipework will be a major part of the budget.
 
In this image, you will find the average supply costs for the different models.  Taking the drum and the smoke exhaust out of the equation, the pipework will be a major part of the budget.
 +
|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_cout_fournitures.png
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
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{{Tuto Step
|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_principe_poelito.png
 
|Step_Picture_02=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_principe_poelito.png
 
 
|Step_Title=How the Device is made up:
 
|Step_Title=How the Device is made up:
 
|Step_Content=The idea behind the Poelito is to build a rocket stove inside a drum. The bottom of the drum is lined with an insulating mix of concrete; however the stove still needs to stand on a fire-proof support.The bottom part of the stove is cast in refractory concrete around a mould made of cardboard tubes. This is the area where the fire develops.Tubes are used to make the hollowed-out conduits: these are the routes which the smoke and fire take. The lower part forms the base of the fire pit
 
|Step_Content=The idea behind the Poelito is to build a rocket stove inside a drum. The bottom of the drum is lined with an insulating mix of concrete; however the stove still needs to stand on a fire-proof support.The bottom part of the stove is cast in refractory concrete around a mould made of cardboard tubes. This is the area where the fire develops.Tubes are used to make the hollowed-out conduits: these are the routes which the smoke and fire take. The lower part forms the base of the fire pit
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The fire pit can be closed to the outside either by a cast iron plate or by a pane of ceramic glass which can then be covered over by the drum lid as a finishing touch.
 
The fire pit can be closed to the outside either by a cast iron plate or by a pane of ceramic glass which can then be covered over by the drum lid as a finishing touch.
 
The exhaust pipe is on the outside of the drum to which connection is made by a T joint with cap for cleaning out. Any pipes that go along the ceiling and to roof vents (or anything which goes outside of the dwelling) must be insulated.
 
The exhaust pipe is on the outside of the drum to which connection is made by a T joint with cap for cleaning out. Any pipes that go along the ceiling and to roof vents (or anything which goes outside of the dwelling) must be insulated.
 
  
 
In the picture, you can see the bottom of the vertical feed pipe and the ash tray at the front and, behind, the pipe where the fire is lit . This together forms the burner.
 
In the picture, you can see the bottom of the vertical feed pipe and the ash tray at the front and, behind, the pipe where the fire is lit . This together forms the burner.
 
Towards the back, there are 2 pipes where the smoke is forced down. These are situated on either side of the pipe where the fire lit. These pipes join up underneath by means of a manifold which directs the smoke towards the back in the direction of the smoke exhaust which forms the manifold. Connection to the exhaust pipe is by means of a T with cap.
 
Towards the back, there are 2 pipes where the smoke is forced down. These are situated on either side of the pipe where the fire lit. These pipes join up underneath by means of a manifold which directs the smoke towards the back in the direction of the smoke exhaust which forms the manifold. Connection to the exhaust pipe is by means of a T with cap.
 +
|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_principe_poelito.png
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|Step_Picture_01=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_PITO_200.PNG
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|Step_Picture_02=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_PITO_200_eclatee.PNG
 +
|Step_Picture_03=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_PITO_200_eclatee_legende.png
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
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{{Tuto Step
|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_3_dimensions.png
 
|Step_Picture_01=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_puissances_3_poeles.png
 
 
|Step_Title=Sizingː
 
|Step_Title=Sizingː
 
|Step_Content=It is possible to make the Poelito in three different sizes which will be depend on the type of dwelling, the space that is to be heated, the exterior temperature and how well the dwelling is insulatedː
 
|Step_Content=It is possible to make the Poelito in three different sizes which will be depend on the type of dwelling, the space that is to be heated, the exterior temperature and how well the dwelling is insulatedː
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* PITO 200 is made with a 200 litre drum (Ø60 cm H 90 cm) which can be used in a yurt which is larger than 5m in diameter, a small house, a small narrow-boat....allow for 250 kg.
 
* PITO 200 is made with a 200 litre drum (Ø60 cm H 90 cm) which can be used in a yurt which is larger than 5m in diameter, a small house, a small narrow-boat....allow for 250 kg.
 
This design is most suitable for lightweight dwellings with a floor-space of more than 20 m²  or for a solidly-built, moderately insulated dwelling with a floor-space of more than 35 m² .A device which does not need to be moved very often and requires options such as water heating and heated seating would be suitable for this size of dwelling
 
This design is most suitable for lightweight dwellings with a floor-space of more than 20 m²  or for a solidly-built, moderately insulated dwelling with a floor-space of more than 35 m² .A device which does not need to be moved very often and requires options such as water heating and heated seating would be suitable for this size of dwelling
 +
|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_3_dimensions.png
 +
|Step_Picture_01=Poelito_-_Poêle_de_masse_semi-démontable_47949898893_7d8bd703d3_k.jpg
 +
|Step_Picture_02=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_puissances_3_poeles.png
 +
|Step_Picture_03=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_cout_fournitures.png
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
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{{Tuto Step
 
|Step_Title=Fundamental Health and Safety Rules
 
|Step_Title=Fundamental Health and Safety Rules
 
|Step_Content='''User’s responsibility'''
 
|Step_Content='''User’s responsibility'''
  
The authors of this guide and the organisation which makes it available disclaim all liability resulting from the use of the Poelito. You are solely responsible for the implementation of the proposed device. Take precautions, remain calm and composed when in action. Above all, question any so-called “good ideas” you may have (e.g. “that will be OK like that”...)
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The authors of this guide and the organisation which makes it available disclaim all liability resulting from the use of the Poelito. You are solely responsible for the implementation of the proposed device. Take precautions, remain calm and composed when in action. Above all, question any so-called “good ideas” you may have (e.g. “that will be OK like that”...).
  
 
'''Safety during construction'''
 
'''Safety during construction'''
  
Always use safety equipment required for the task undertaken. Metal can be a dangerous material to work with and cement may be toxic if inhaled. Ensure you have an suitable work plan and only use the right tools to assemble pieces when machining (clamp, vice, locking pliers)  
+
Always use safety equipment required for the task undertaken. Metal can be a dangerous material to work with and cement may be toxic if inhaled. Ensure you have an suitable work plan and only use the right tools to assemble pieces when machining (clamp, vice, locking pliers)
  
 
'''Installing the stove'''
 
'''Installing the stove'''
  
Like all stoves, it is important to respect safety rules in order to not put yourself or your dwelling at risk.
+
Like all stoves, it is important to respect safety rules in order to not put yourself or your dwelling at risk.
  
 
<u>Weight /foundations:</u>This device is of a substantial weight.In a lightweight dwelling, it is imperative that you put something under the floor to withstand the weight and avoid it collapsing. As a minimum, you will need at least a block which stands on the hard surface to sufficiently support the floor. If needed, insert a transverse beam between existing supports (to form a joist) and a block for maximum effect. In conjunction with this, a ground protection mat is recommended as the floor can be relatively flexible and can become distorted in places due to the weight being concentrated in a given area (at points of bearing heavy loads). This means laying any such material on the floor that is sufficiently rigid and of a size to distribute the weight over a larger area than that on which the device normally stands.
 
<u>Weight /foundations:</u>This device is of a substantial weight.In a lightweight dwelling, it is imperative that you put something under the floor to withstand the weight and avoid it collapsing. As a minimum, you will need at least a block which stands on the hard surface to sufficiently support the floor. If needed, insert a transverse beam between existing supports (to form a joist) and a block for maximum effect. In conjunction with this, a ground protection mat is recommended as the floor can be relatively flexible and can become distorted in places due to the weight being concentrated in a given area (at points of bearing heavy loads). This means laying any such material on the floor that is sufficiently rigid and of a size to distribute the weight over a larger area than that on which the device normally stands.
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<u>Chimney Height:</u> The layout will have an effect on air circulation.
 
<u>Chimney Height:</u> The layout will have an effect on air circulation.
Obstructions which cause air disturbances should be avoided. The smoke exhaust pipe, in particular, must 40cm higher than the top of the roof. For flat roofs, it must be higher than 120 cm (in this case, it must be properly secured). According to standards, the pipe must also be higher than any obstruction which is less than 8m away (e.g. trees)  
+
Obstructions which cause air disturbances should be avoided. The smoke exhaust pipe, in particular, must 40cm higher than the top of the roof. For flat roofs, it must be higher than 120 cm (in this case, it must be properly secured). According to standards, the pipe must also be higher than any obstruction which is less than 8m away (e.g. trees)
  
 
<u>Choosing a place to put the stove:</u>Where you put the stove will be often dictated by the possible paths in which the smoke ducts in the roof can take. Clearly, you need to take into consideration the layout of the room. Avoid raising the device up too much as the room should be heated at ground level. If it is placed next to a wall, you should not only pay attention to safe distances but also to the accessibility needed for drawing air in to light the fire and for  cleaning out.
 
<u>Choosing a place to put the stove:</u>Where you put the stove will be often dictated by the possible paths in which the smoke ducts in the roof can take. Clearly, you need to take into consideration the layout of the room. Avoid raising the device up too much as the room should be heated at ground level. If it is placed next to a wall, you should not only pay attention to safe distances but also to the accessibility needed for drawing air in to light the fire and for  cleaning out.
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
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{{Tuto Step
 
|Step_Title=Different types of Concrete: how to make them up and what goes in them.
 
|Step_Title=Different types of Concrete: how to make them up and what goes in them.
 
|Step_Content=As part of the process of making the Poelito, you will need to make up concrete. Fire cement is corrosive to the skin and an irritant to the eyes and respiratory tracts: handle using gloves, wear goggles and an anti-dust mask.
 
|Step_Content=As part of the process of making the Poelito, you will need to make up concrete. Fire cement is corrosive to the skin and an irritant to the eyes and respiratory tracts: handle using gloves, wear goggles and an anti-dust mask.
  
 +
You need to make two different mixesː
 +
* An insulating mix used for the bottom of the drum and the heat riser;
 +
* And, for the remainder, a dense mix  which used to store in the heat.
  
Il y a deux mélanges différents à réaliser :
+
You can find details below on how to make it and what materials are needed.
* un mélange isolant, pour le fond du bidon et la remontée des flammes,
+
Reference to this will be made at different times during this tutorial.
* un mélange dense pour le reste, pour conserver la chaleur
 
 
 
 
 
Les recettes et la mise en œuvre sont expliquées ci-dessous. On y fera appel à plusieurs reprises dans le tutoriel
 
  
'''Recette du béton réfractaire isolant'''
+
'''How  to make up the refractory concrete'''
* 1 volume d’eau
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* 1 part water
* 1 volume de ciment fondu
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* 1 part  fire cement 
* 1,3 volume de vermiculite
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* 1.3 parts vermiculite
  
* Calculer le volume nécessaire à couler et le majorer de 20 %.
+
* Calculate the volumes needed for casting and increase it by 20 %
* Mettre l’eau dans la cuve où vous faites le mélange
+
* Put the water into the container in which you are going to mix it all up.
* Verser le ciment par-dessus
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* Pour in the cement. 
* Mélanger pour obtenir une pâte lisse
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* Mix it up until you have a smooth paste
* Verser toute la vermiculite par-dessus et malaxer pour obtenir un mélange homogène. Il faut que tous les grains soient noirs et que le mélange soit suffisamment humide.
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* Pour all the vermiculite in and mix in until you have an even mixture. The granules should have all turned black and the mix should be sufficiently wet.
* Rajouter de l’eau si besoin.
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* Add more water if necessary.
  
'''Recette du béton réfractaire dense'''
+
'''How  to make up the dense refractory concrete'''
* 1 volume d’eau
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* 1 part water
* 1,3 volume de ciment fondu
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* 1.3 fire cement
* 3,3 volume de chamotte réfractaire
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* 3.3 parts refractory chamotte
  
* Calculer le volume nécessaire à couler et le majorer de 10 %.
+
* Calculate the volumes needed for casting and increase it by 10 %
* Mettre la chamotte dans la cuve où vous faites le mélange
+
* Put the chamotte into the container where you are going to make the mix.
* Verser le ciment par-dessus
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* Pour in the cement on top.
* Mélanger à sec
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* Mix them together dry.
* Ajouter les ¾ du volume d’eau nécessaire
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* Add ¾ of the volume of water needed
* Mélanger
+
* Mix
* Compléter progressivement avec le reste de l’eau pour ajuster la consistance
+
* Gradually add more of the remaining water to adjust consistency
  
 
+
As with all  binding agents which set hydraulically, losing moisture or drying out too quickly inhibits chemical reactions needed for it to set.
Comme tous les liants à prise hydraulique, une perte d’eau ou un séchage trop rapide empêche les réactions chimiques de prise de se produire.  
+
* Cover whilst it is setting if the weather is hot, do not make mortar in direct sunlight  or in freezing weather. It sets fairly quickly: in about  ½ hour.
* Couvrir l’ouvrage en cours de prise s’il fait très chaud, ne pas mettre en œuvre ces mortiers en plein soleil ni en cas de gel. La prise est assez rapide : de l’ordre d’une ½ heure.  
+
* Only make up amounts that you can work with within this time-frame.
* Ne préparer que la dose que vous pouvez mettre en œuvre dans ce laps de temps.  
+
* Avoid contact with rainwater which may be acidic and prevent the binding agent from working properly.
* Éviter l’eau de pluie qui peut être acide et nuire à la prise du liant.  
+
* Avoid using warm water as it speeds up the setting process.
* Éviter l’eau chaude qui accélère la prise.
 
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
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{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=Préparation du bidon
+
|Step_Title=Preparing the drum
|Step_Content='''Décapage'''  
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|Step_Content='''Scouring'''
  
Il est préférable de décaper le bidon avant de se lancer dans la construction. Dans tous les cas il faut le faire avant les premiers feux qui feront cloquer la peinture qui n’est pas prévue pour résister aux hautes températures. Le plus simple pour décaper est d’utiliser des disques à décaper sur une meuleuse. Il est également possible d’utiliser une ponceuse ou de mettre une brosse métallique sur une perceuse.  
+
It is better to scour down the drum before starting construction.In all cases, this should be done before lighting the first fire as this will blister the paintwork which is not designed for resisting high temperatures. The simplest way to scour it down is by using abrasive discs on a grinding machine. It is also possible to use a sander or attach a wire brush to a drill.
  
 +
'''Cutting '''
  
'''Découpage '''
+
Unless you have a drum with a detachable lid with strapping, you will need to cut the top off of the drum. The top of the drum is used as the cover for the stove once it has been finished. Avoid damaging it and choose the bottom of the drum (which is a complete unit) in preference to the top (which is where the bungs go). This means turning the drum upside down.
  
A moins d’avoir un bidon à couvercle amovible avec cerclage, il faut découper le dessus du bidon.  
+
Using an angle-grinder and protective gear for hands, eyes and ears, cut just below the rim taking care to not cut the second layer of the metal sheet. That way, the lid can be replaced. A metal saw also works very well.  
Le dessus du bidon sera le couvercle du poêle une foi finie. Il faut donc éviter de l’abimer, et choisir plutôt le fond du bidon (qui est complet) que le dessus (qui comporte des bondes). C'est-à-dire prendre le bidon à l’envers.  
+
<u>Tip:</u>  Start with using an angle grinder (for easiness) and finish with the saw (for precision). Remember to protect the ground with tarpaulin as the remnants of liquid in the drum may leak out from the area you are cutting.
  
Muni d’une disqueuse et des équipements de protection pour les yeux, les oreilles, et les mains, découper juste sous le bourrelet, en prenant soin de ne pas couper la deuxième épaisseur de tôle. Ainsi le couvercle pourra être replacé. La scie à métaux fonctionne aussi très bien.
+
'''Cleaning'''
<u>Astuce :</u> entamer le métal à la disqueuse (facile) et finir à la scie (précis). Il faut penser à protéger le sol avec une bâche car les restes de liquide présent dans le bidon risquent de s’échapper par la zone découper.
 
  
 +
Now that the drum is opened up, it should be cleaned out as it will almost certainly still have remains of oil in it. Use sawdust or sand to get rid of the bulk of the residual oil content. Dispose of the contents as recommended (most likely as toxic waste, you will need to take to a waste disposal site)
 +
}}
 +
{{Tuto Step
 +
|Step_Title=Making the Ash Tray and Smoke Exhaust Holes
 +
|Step_Content=Two diametrically opposite holes must be drilled in the drum allowing you to insert the pipes.The front tube (100/130/150 mm in diameter) is to be used as an air inlet and for ash removal.The back tube (80/100/130 mm in diameter) is to be used to connect the smoke exhaust pipe (the respective diameters of PITO model - 60/120/200)
  
'''Nettoyage'''
+
The two tubes should be 6 cm from the bottom of the drum. This is the thickness of the base layer of concrete. When measuring, you need to take into consideration the rim that protrudes beyond the bottom of the drum  (If you are filling to 6 cm from the bottom of inside the drum, you then need to add on the thickness of this rim which will be approximately 1.5 cm)
  
Maintenant que le bidon est ouvert, il faut le nettoyer car il contient surement encore un peu d’huile. Utiliser de la sciure ou du sable pour éliminer le plus gros du résidu de contenu. Traiter ce déchet selon sa composition, probablement comme un déchet toxique à placer en déchetterie.
+
* Using string, go around the barrel, mark the point at which it meets on the string with a felt-tipped pen: this will  give you the circumference of the barrel.
 +
* Fold the string in half and make a new mark half way between: i.e. half  of the circumference. 
 +
* Draw around the tubes which are to be inserted to mark where you need to make the holes.
 +
* Use string to locate the centres of the 2 apertures opposite each other.
 +
* Cut out the two circles staying well inside the lines.
 +
* Hammer the edge of the hole (towards the outside) in order to fit the tube.
 +
* Keep the cut-out circles to make the stoppers for the ash tray and feed.
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
+
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=Réalisation des trous du cendrier et de la sortie fumées
+
|Step_Title=Fitting the Ash Tubes and Smoke Exhaust
|Step_Content=Le bidon doit être percé de deux trous diamétralement opposés permettant d’introduire des tuyaux. À l’avant le tube de diamètre 100/130/150 mm servira d’entrée d’air et d’évacuation des cendres. À l’arrière le tube de 80/100/130 mm servira à connecter le tuyau d’évacuation des fumées (respectivement les diamètres du modèle Pito 60/120/200).
+
|Step_Content=Ash tray side:
 
Les deux tubes doivent être à 6 cm du fond du bidon. C’est l’épaisseur de la couche de béton du socle. Il faut faire attention au rebord extérieur pour prendre la côte (c’est 6 cm depuis le fond, auxquels il faut ajouter l’épaisseur du rebord, soit environ 1,5 cm).
 
  
* À l’aide d’une ficelle, faire le tour du fut, marquer au feutre sur la ficelle l’endroit où elle se rejoint : cela donne le périmètre du fût.
+
* Feed the 100/130/150 tube through the hole you made earlier on the drum, male side on the outside with the ridge against the outer wall of the barrel.
* Plier la ficelle en deux en deux et faire une nouvelle marque à la moitié : le demi périmètre
+
* Mark, on the tube from the inside, the point where it meets the wall of the barrel.
* Tracer les trous au marqueur, autour des tubes à insérer
+
* Take off the tube and cut 15 mm beyond the line.
* Utiliser la ficelle pour positionner les 2 centre des ouvertures, en face à face.
+
* Then cut out fins in this 15mm band stopping at the marked line using metal shears, a jigsaw or a grinder. These should be 1cm wide so that the they are easy to fold back.
* Découper les deux cercles en restant bien à l’intérieur du trait.  
+
* When all these have been cut out, re-position the pipe and fold the fins back.
* Marteler le bord du trou (vers l’extérieur) pour l’ajuster au tube.  
+
* If necessary, put a few rivets or self-tapping screws to fix it securely.
* Conserver les cercles découpés pour pouvoir faire les bouchons du cendrier et de l’alimentation
 
}}
 
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
 
|Step_Title=Mise en place les tubes cendrier et évacuation des fumées
 
|Step_Content='''Côté cendrier'''
 
  
* Enfiler le tube de 100/130/150 dans son trou préparé sur le bidon, côté mâle à l’extérieur, avec le bourrelet contre la paroi extérieure du fût.
+
'''Smoke Exhaust side:'''
* Par l’intérieur, tracer sur le tube la jonction avec la paroi du fût
 
* Enlever le tube et couper 15 mm plus loin que le trait.
 
* Découper ensuite les ailettes dans cette bande de 15 mm en arrêtant la coupe sur le trait, à la cisaille, à la scie sauteuse ou à la meuleuse. Elles doivent être larges de 1cm, pour que les ailettes soient faciles à replier.
 
* Une fois les ailettes découpées remettre le tuyau en place et replier les ailettes.
 
* Si besoin, placer quelques rivets ou vis auto-foreuses pour le bloquer solidement.
 
  
 +
On the smoke exhaust side, attach a short sleeve with a female fitting in the same way. The female fitting is on the outside.
 +
}}
 +
{{Tuto Step
 +
|Step_Title=Fitting the Moulds
 +
|Step_Content=There is a risk that the  moulds (which are to be made next) will be displaced when pouring the concrete.  They should be secured down to ensure the dimensions are correct.
  
'''Côté évacuation des fumées'''
+
* Turn the barrel back over.
 +
* Drill 3 pairs of holes to the diameter of the wire (as per the diagram opposite). It does not have to be exact. 
 +
* Loop 1m approx. of wire through. This will help to keep the cardboard moulds in place whilst pouring the concrete.
  
Côté évacuation des fumées il faut fixer de la même manière une manchette courte avec emboitement femelle. L’emboitement femelle donne à l’extérieur.
+
The wires need to point to the inside of drum.
}}
 
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
 
 
|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_fixation_coffrage.png
 
|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_fixation_coffrage.png
|Step_Title=Fixation des coffrages perdus
 
|Step_Content=Les coffrages qui seront réalisés prochainement risquent de bouger lors des coulées de béton, il faut donc les arrimer pour maintenir de bonnes épaisseurs.
 
 
* Retourner le fut
 
* Percer 3 paires de trous au diamètre du fil de fer selon le schéma ci contre. la précision n'est pas très importante
 
* Passer des boucles de fil de fer d’environ 1 mètre. Elles viendront maintenir les réservations en cartons pendant le coulage du béton.
 
 
Les fils de fer doivent pointer à l'intérieur du bidon
 
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
+
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=Fabrication du bouchon du cendrier
+
|Step_Title=Making the stopper for the ash tray
|Step_Content=Ce bouchon permet de fermer le cendrier et de régler l'entrée d'air primaire.
+
|Step_Content=This stopper allows you to shut off the ash tray and regulate primary air intake.
  
* Prendre un bout de tube qui s’emboite sur la sortie (mâle) du cendrier.  
+
* Take one end of the tube which slots onto the (male) ash tray outlet .
* Couper en ajoutant 15 mm à la longueur nécessaire.  
+
* Cut, adding 15 mm onto the length needed.
* Dans cette bande de 15 mm, découper des ailettes tous les centimètres, en essayant d’en avoir un nombre pair, ce sera plus joli.
+
* In this 15mm strip, cut out fins a centimetre apart trying to have an even number as this will look better.
* Plier une ailette sur deux vers l’intérieur.
+
* Fold every second fin towards the inside.
* Réutiliser le cercle découpé dans le bidon pour fermer le couvercle.
+
* Reuse the cut out circle from the drum to close down the lid.
* Poser le cercle sur les ailettes repliées
+
* Place the circle on the folded back fins
* Replier les autres ailettes par-dessus.
+
* Fold the other fins over.
* Ajouter une poignée et une petite trappe de réglage de l’entrée d’air.
+
* Add a handle and a small door to control air intake.
Le système de réglage de l'air primaire (au cendrier) doit être précis et efficace. Il permet de contrôler la puissance de combustion.
+
The system of controlling primary air (in the ash tray) should be rigorous and efficient.This allows you to control the power from combustion.
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
+
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=Coulée du fond de protection
+
|Step_Title=Casting the protective bottom
|Step_Content=Le fond du poêle est composé de 2 couches différentes : 3 cm de mélange isolant puis 3 cm de mélange dense. Elles ont pour rôle d’isoler le fond du fût de la chaleur pour protéger le sol.
+
|Step_Content=The bottom of the stove consists of 2 different layers: 3 cm insulating mix then 3cm dense mix. The purpose of this is to insulate the bottom of the barrel to protect the ground from heat.
  
* Marquer à l’intérieur du fût la hauteur à laquelle doivent s’arrêter les deux couches, soit 3 et 6 cm.
+
* Mark inside of the barrel the height where the two layers come up to, which is 3 and 6 cm.
* S’assurer que le bidon est sur une surface de niveau quand le béton est coulé.
+
* Ensure that the drum is on a level surface when the concrete is poured.
  
 +
'''Insulating Mix: '''
 +
* Calculate the volume needed for the insulating  https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vtasWBKad9EEFBpeoNq38jT7SOasalra/view
 +
* Make up the mix referring to the instructions on how to make up the insulating mix and what goes in it Step X.
 +
* Pour the insulating mix up to the 3cm mark.
 +
* As you are doing this, pack down the mix using a tamper .
 +
* Ensure the wires which hold in the moulds are sticking out.
 +
* Wait two hours until the first layer is surface-dry so that you can then pour on the dense mix.
  
'''Mélange isolant '''
+
<u>Tip:</u> Once the mixture has started to set, scarify the surface of the concrete in order that the second layer sticks to it well.
* Calculer le volume nécessaire de mélange isolant https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vtasWBKad9EEFBpeoNq38jT7SOasalra/view
 
* Préparer le mélange en se référant à la recette et préparation du mélange isolant en étape X
 
* Couler le mélange isolant jusqu’à atteindre les 3cm
 
* Compacter le mélange au moyen d’un tasseau lors de la mise en œuvre.
 
Attention à bien faire ressortir les fils de maintien du moulage.
 
Attendre deux heures que la première couche soit sèche en surface pour couler le mélange dense.
 
  
<u>Astuce :</u> une fois que le mélange a commencé à prendre, scarifier la surface du béton pour que la seconde couche accroche bien.
+
'''Dense Mix:'''
  
 
+
* Calculate the volume needed for the dense mix https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vtasWBKad9EEFBpeoNq38jT7SOasalra/view  
'''Mélange dense'''
+
* Make up the mix referring to the instructions on how to make up the dense mix and what goes in it in Step X.
 
+
* Pour in the 3cm of the dense mix up to the 6cm mark.
* Calculer le volume nécessaire de mélange dense https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vtasWBKad9EEFBpeoNq38jT7SOasalra/view  
+
* As you are doing this, pack down the mix using a tamper .
* Préparer le mélange en se référant à la recette et préparation du mélange dense en étape X
+
* Ensure the wires which hold in the moulds are sticking out.
* Couler 3cm de mélange dense jusqu’à atteindre les 6cm  
+
* Wait 24 hours before pouring the remainder.
* Compacter le mélange au moyen d’un tasseau lors de la mise en œuvre.
 
Attention à bien faire ressortir les fils de maintien du moulage.
 
Attendre 24h avant de couler le reste
 
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
+
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_coffrage_bruleur.png
+
|Step_Title=Making the Moulds
|Step_Picture_01=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_coffrage_bruleur.png
+
|Step_Content=You will need to make the moulds so that you can pour the refractory concrete.
|Step_Picture_02=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_coffrage_bruleur_cartons.png
+
This is effectively making the conduits where heat and gases circulate. For this, you will need to make moulds for the different conduits using cardboard which then need be taken out after the concrete has been cast. They need to be made solid enough to withstand the pressure of the concrete but equally be easy as possible to take out once it has all dried.
|Step_Picture_03=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_coffrage_bruleur_cartons.png
 
|Step_Title=Réalisation des coffrages perdus
 
|Step_Content=Il va falloir maintenant faire les coffrages perdus pour couler le béton réfractaire. C'est-à-dire créer les conduits pour la circulation du feu et des gaz. Pour cela, à l'aide de cartons il faut réaliser les moules des différents conduits. Une fois le béton coulé, il faudra les retirer. Il faut donc les faire suffisamment solides pour qu’ils résistent à la pression du béton tout en étant le plus simple à retirer une fois l’ensemble sec.  
 
  
 +
The minimum thickness for the concrete must be 3 cm between the various components themselves and between the components and the barrel. There is a risk that the concrete might crack underneath making the stove not very durable.
 +
There is also a danger of the smoke circulating poorly which means the stove will not work very effectively. That needs to be borne in mind when making the moulds, especially when they are positioned in the concrete when casting the mix .
  
L'épaisseur minimum de béton entre les différentes pièces et entre les pièces et le fût doit être de 3 cm. En dessous, le béton risque de fissurer et de rendre le poêle peu durable. Il y a aussi le risque d’une mauvaise circulation des fumées, donc un poêle qui marche mal. Il faut donc penser à ça lors de la construction des moules et surtout lorsqu’ils sont placés dans le bidon pour couler le mélange.  
+
'''Cutting'''
 +
* As the pipes are effectively cylinders, you need to make an opening so that they can be joined. When cutting out the cardboard tubes, add a few cms to the sides (côtes) listed in the tables e.g. to join a 100mm tube onto a 100mm one, the depth of the opening is 5cm. For thick carton, cut it with a saw (a good way of doing this is with a jigsaw) and a  cutter.
 +
* Use the dimensions in the tables as shown.
  
'''Découpe'''
+
'''Assembly'''
* Pour raccorder deux tuyaux, comme ce sont des cylindres, il faut faire une gueule de loup. Lors des découpes des tubes en carton, ajouter quelques cm aux côtes listées dans les tableaux. Par ex. pour raccorder un tube de 100mm sur du 100mm, la profondeur de la gueule de loup est de 5cm.
+
* Wrap the tubes individually in protective plastic.
La découpe se fait à la scie pour le carton épais (voir à la scie sauteuse, très pratique) et au cutter.
+
* Position the tubes relative to one another as depicted in the diagrams.  
* Prendre les dimensions sur les tableaux en image.
+
* Hold the tubes in place with gaffer tape.
+
Be careful to ensure the junctions are well covered so that the concrete does not soak into the tubes.
'''Assemblage'''
 
* Emballer chaque tube individuellement dans du plastique de protection.
 
* Positionner les tubes les uns par rapport aux autres en respectant les mesures données dans les plans.
 
* Maintenir les tubes entre eu avec du scotch orange.
 
Attention à bien couvrir les jonctions pour que le béton ne pénètre pas dans les tubes.
 
  
 
+
<u>TIP:</u> For connection with the ash tray or smoke exhaust, narrow the gaps with another bit of rigid cardboard. Remove a strip in order to reduce the diameter so that you can slot it into the cardboard mould.
<u>ASTUCE :</u> Pour la connexion avec le cendrier ou l’évacuation des fumées, faire une réduction avec un autre morceau de carton assez rigide. Enlever une bande pour le réduire en diamètre pour pouvoir l’enfiler dans le moule en carton.
+
<u>TIP:</u> Allow for a 2 cm margin in height so that you have something to get hold of when taking out the castings.
<u>ASTUCE :</u> Prévoir 2 cm de marge en hauteur afin de conserver une prise pour le retrait des coffrage
+
<u>TIP: </u> Once the manifold and the horizontal tube where the fire is lit has been completed (these are the hardest to remove), it is possible to cut them longitudinally into 2 or 3 pieces and put them back together. This will make it easier to remove.
<u>ASTUCE  : </u>Une fois le collecteur et le tube horizontal de départ de flamme réalisés (les plus durs à retirer) il est possible de les découper dans le sens de la longueur, en 2 ou 3 morceaux puis de les ré-assembler. Ils seront plus faciles à retirer.
+
|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_coffrage_bruleur.png
 +
|Step_Picture_01=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_coffrage_bruleur_cartons.png
 +
|Step_Picture_02=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_coffrage_collecteur.png
 +
|Step_Picture_03=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_coffrage_collecteur_carton.png
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
+
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=Positionnement des coffrages
+
|Step_Title=Positioning the Moulds.
|Step_Content=Une fois les coffrages perdus en carton finis et enveloppés, il faut les placer dans le fût et les fixer.Commencer par l’évacuation des fumées :
+
|Step_Content=Once the cardboard castings have been finished and encased, they need to be placed in the barrel and fastened.
* Emboiter le tube en carton dans l’ouverture métallique du bidon,
+
* Slot the cardboard tube into the metal opening of drum. 
* Le Fixer avec les 2 fils de fer en serrant bien.
+
* Fasten tightly with 2 strands of wire .
* Couper les sur-longueurs de fil de fer inutiles.
+
* Cut off any redundant wire.
  
 +
Do the same with the ash tray mould.
  
Faire de même avec le coffrage du cendrier
+
* Hold onto the wires and pass them over top the pipe which comes horizontally out of where you light the fire .
 
+
* Wedge the different pieces between each other with bits of wood.  This will help to maintain the gaps between the pieces whilst the dense concrete is being poured.
* Accrocher les fils de fer en passant par-dessus la branche horizontale de départ de flammes.
 
* Caler les différents éléments entre eux avec des morceaux de bois, ils permettront de maintenir les écartements entre les éléments pendant la coulée du béton dense.
 
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
+
{{Tuto Step
 +
|Step_Title=Pouring the Refractory Concrete
 +
|Step_Content=* Mark either with a pen or with tape inside the drum, the height from the bottom layer of concrete to which the dense concrete needs to be poured (350/300/260)
 +
* Prepare the mix referring to how to make concretes up and what goes in them in Stage X.
 +
* Pour the concrete in 5 cm max. passes.
 +
* Pack the concrete down after each pass in a consistent manner. If the concrete is packed down too much on one side, the cardboard mould will  not stay in.
 +
* Make sure the thicknesses are uniform and symmetrical as to not allow any movement in the moulds.
 +
* If necessary, re-position the wedges as you are pouring the concrete.
 +
* Repeat until you have reached the specified height.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_Coffrage_coul_.png
 
|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_Coffrage_coul_.png
|Step_Title=Coulée de béton réfractaire
 
|Step_Content=* Indiquer avec un marqueur ou un scotch la hauteur à laquelle doit s’arrêter le béton dense à l’intérieur du bidon à partir du béton du fond (350/300/260).
 
* Préparer le mélange en se référant à la recette et préparation du mélange dense en étape X
 
* Couler le béton par passe de 5 cm maximum.
 
* Tasser le béton après chaque passe de manière homogène. Si le béton est trop tassé d’un côté, le coffrage en carton va être repoussé.
 
* S’assurer que les épaisseurs sont régulières et symétriques, les coffrages ne doivent pas bouger. Si besoin, replacer les cales au fur et à mesure du remplissage.
 
* Répéter jusqu’à arriver à la hauteur indiquée.
 
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
+
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=Retrait des coffrages perdus
+
|Step_Title=Removing the Moulds
|Step_Content=Le retrait des coffrages peut se faire 12h après le coulage. C’est une étape assez fastidieuse.  
+
|Step_Content=Removing the moulds can be done 12 hours after pouring the concrete.
* Utiliser des gants pour éviter de s’abîmer les mains contre le béton en les glissant dans les trous.
+
This can be quite a tedious task.
* Arracher à la main ou avec une pince tout ce qui est accessible par les orifices.
+
* Use gloves to avoid damage to hands from the concrete when  poking them into the holes.
* Une fois le maximum enlevé, faire du feu dans les trous pour brûler ce qui reste et pouvoir l’enlever.
+
* Pull out all that you are able to retrieve from the orifices either by hand or with a pair of pliers.
Utiliser de l’alcool à bruler facilite la combustion des éléments à retirer, attention cependant à ne jamais mettre d’alcool sur le feu. Une fois le feu démarré, utiliser des petits bouts de bois secs pour continuer la combustion.
+
* Once you have taken out as much as you can, light a fire in the hole to burn off and get rid of that which is left inside.  
 +
* Use methylated spirits to facilitate the process of burning the bits you want to get out .  However, care must be taken to never put alcohol onto the fire. When the fire gets going, use little pieces of dry wood to keep the fire burning.
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
+
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=Fabrication du conduit d’alimentation bois
+
|Step_Title=How to Make the Wood Feed Pipe.
|Step_Content=La longueur du conduit d'alimentation bois doit être ajustée pour que son extrémité supérieure traverse le couvercle et puisse recevoir un bouchon. Néanmoins il doit être le plus court possible, car l’effet de tirage qui se produit ici à l’allumage s’oppose à celui de la ligne d’évacuation. Plus il est court, plus c’est facile à allumer.  
+
|Step_Content=The length of the wood feed must be adjusted so that its upper end goes through the lid and you can fit a stopper onto it. However, it must be as short as possible as the draught effect produced when lit works against the outlet line. The shorter it is, the easier it is to light.
 
 
  
* Prendre la longueur entre le niveau du béton et le haut du fût, y ajouter 15mm pour les ailettes et la hauteur du bouchon. Le haut du tube doit être un emboitement mâle pour recevoir le bouchon.
+
* Take the length between the level of the concrete and the top of the barrel, add 15mm for the fins and whatever the height of the stopper is. The top of the tube has to have a male fitting in so you can fit a stopper onto it.
* Découper le tube.
+
* Cut out the tube.
* Réaliser des ailettes de 15mm de haut tous les centimètres sur la partie basse.
+
* Make 15mm high fins every centimetre on the lower part.
* Replier une ailette sur deux vers l’extérieur
+
* Fold back every other fin towards the outside.
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
+
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=Fabrication du bouchon d'alimentation en bois
+
|Step_Title=How to make the Wood Feed Stopper
|Step_Content=Pour le conduit d’alimentation il faut procéder de même manière que pour celui du cendrier sans ajouter d’entrée d’air :
+
|Step_Content=It is the same process for the feed pipe as it would be for the ash tray  but without adding the air inlet.
 
 
  
* Prendre un bout de tube qui s’emboite sur la sortie (mâle) de l'alimentation.
+
* Take one end of the tube which fits onto the (male) outlet feed pipe
* Couper en ajoutant 15 mm à la longueur nécessaire.  
+
* Cut, adding 15 mm onto the length needed.
* Dans cette bande de 15 mm, découper des ailettes tous les centimètres, en essayant d’en avoir un nombre pair, ce sera plus joli.
+
* In this 15mm strip, cut out fins a centimetre apart trying to have an even number as this will look better.
* Plier une ailette sur deux vers l’intérieur.
+
* Fold every second fin towards the inside.
* Réutiliser le cercle découpé dans le bidon pour fermer le couvercle.
+
* Reuse the cut-out circle from the drum to close down the lid.
* Poser le cercle sur les ailettes repliées
+
* Place the circle on the folded back fins
* Replier les autres ailettes par-dessus.
+
* Fold over the other fins on top.
* Ajouter une poignée
+
* Add a handle.
  
Pour ajuster l'air secondaire il suffit de poser le couvercle entrouvert. En fonctionnement le couvercle ne sera jamais totalement fermé. A l’arrêt il est fermé, il évite que le poêle chaud continue d’aspirer de l’air dans la pièce, de le chauffer, et de l’évacuer dehors.
+
To adjust the secondary air flow, all you need is to put the lid half-on.  
 +
The lid will never be totally closed down during use.
 +
At the end of use, the lid is to be closed.  This stops the hot stove from sucking in air into the unit, warming it up and escaping out.
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
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{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=Réalisation de la grille
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|Step_Title=Making the Grate
|Step_Content=Le système marche d'autant mieux que le foyer est équipé d'une grille, avec l'air primaire arrivant dessous (sur le cendrier). Cela permet de réduire les braises au fur et à mesure que tu recharges.
+
|Step_Content=he system works even better with a grate fitted to the fire pit and with primary air coming in underneath (onto the ashtray). This allows the embers to keep reducing down as you refuel.
  
* Découper la grille d'égout, selon une forme de langue, pour qu'elle se place au milieu de la hauteur du cendrier, elle doit aller jusqu'au fond du foyer pour empêcher les braises de tomber.
+
ut the drain grate into a tongue shape so that it can be positioned mid-way up the height of the ash tray, It needs to go just at the back of the fire pit to stop the embers from falling out.
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
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{{Tuto Step
|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_remont_e_flammes_d_coffrage.png
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|Step_Title=How to Make the Heat Riser.
|Step_Picture_01=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_remont_e_flammes_d_coffrage.png
+
|Step_Content=To make this tube out of concrete, you need to make a mould using 2 cardboard tubes, one inside the other.
|Step_Title=fabrication de la remontée de flammes
+
The diameter of the inside tube should match the mould (100/100/80).
|Step_Content=Pour faire ce tube en béton il faut fabriquer un moule à l'aide de 2 tubes de carton placés l’un dans l’autre.
+
The diameter of the outside tube must be approximately 6cm larger than the inside one in for the thickness of the tube to be 3cm.
Le diamètre du tube intérieur doit correspondre au coulage (100/100/80).
+
This will need to be 2 to 3cm shorter than the bell chamber in order to leave a space under the glass so that the smoke can circulate.
Le tube extérieur doit avoir un diamètre d'environ 6cm de plus que celui de l’intérieur pour permettre d'avoir un tube d'épaisseur 3cm.  
 
Il devra être plus court que la cloche de 2 à 3 cm afin de laisser un espace sous la vitre pour la circulation des fumées.
 
  
* Couper le tube en carton extérieur
+
* Cut the outside cardboard tube
* Habiller la surface intérieure de plastique.
+
* Cover the inside surface in plastic.
* Couper le tube en carton intérieur
+
* Cut the inside cardboard tube
*Habiller la surface extérieure de plastique
+
* Cover the outside surface in plastic.
* Découper deux rondelles de carton qui serviront d’écarteurs entre le tube intérieur et le tube extérieur.
+
* Cut out two rings from cardboard.  These will be used as spacers between the inside and the outside tubes.
* Les recouvrir de plastique.  
+
* Cover them in plastic.
* Placer les rondelles dans le fond pour fermer le moule
+
* Put the spacers at the bottom to close up the mould.
* Remplir avec du mélange isolant (ciment fondu et vermiculite), par petites quantités.
+
* Fill with the insulating mix (fire cement and vermiculite) a bit at a time.
* Répartir le mélange et tasser le fortement avec un tasseau tout fin.
+
* Spread the mix out and pack down tightly with a small tamper.
  
<u>ASTUCE :</u> Si vous n’avez pas de tube en carton du bon diamètre vous pouvez les réaliser en roulant du carton sur lui-même. Roulez-le en ayant les « veines » du carton dans la hauteur.
+
<u>TIP:</u>If you don’t have any cardboard tubes of the right diameter, you can make them by rolling up cardboard. Roll it up with the flutes going vertically.
  
<u>ALTERNATIVE :</u> Pour les Pito 60, il est possible de faire un coffrage en mélange isolant ou sinon découper un tube dans du métal épais, par exemple dans un extincteur (pas en aluminium) car l’espace est très étroit.
+
<u>ALTERNATIVE :</u> For the PITO60, it is possible to make a mould made out of the insulating mix or, alternatively, cut out a tube from thick metal, for example a fire extinguisher (not if made of aluminium) since the gap is very narrow.
 +
|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_remont_e_flammes_d_coffrage.png
 +
|Step_Picture_01=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_remont_e_flammes_coffrage.png
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
+
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_alim_et_cloche.png
+
|Step_Title=Making the Bell Chamber
|Step_Title=Fabrication de la cloche
+
|Step_Content=The bell chamber is to go around the of the heat riser along and the two tubes where the smoke is taken along. This should be made as small as possible so that you are able to put the maximum amount of sand around it.
|Step_Content=La cloche doit faire le tour de l'ensemble du tube de remontée des flammes et des deux tubes d'aspiration des fumées. Il faut essayer de faire la cloche la plus petite possible pour pouvoir mettre un maximum de sable autour.
 
  
'''Mise en forme'''
+
'''Making the shape'''
* Effectuer une pression sur la cloche pour qu’elle se déforme et devienne ovale.
+
* Press down onto the bell chamber to make it into an oval shape.
  
<u>Attention :</u> Éviter de lui donner une forme de haricot car elle risque de se déformer dans le temps. Avec les cycles de chauffe et refroidissement, le sable se compacte et exerce une forte pression sur les éléments métalliques. La cloche peut alors être comprimée et se déformer si sa forme n’est pas simplement ovale.
+
<u>Caution::</u> Avoid making it kidney bean shaped as over time it will become warped. As it continuously heats up and cools down, the sand will become compact and will put a lot of pressure on the metal part which may result in the bell chamber getting squashed and going out of shape if it is not an oval.  
* Positionner la cloche autour des trous d’évacuations des fumées et de la remontée des flammes.
+
* Position the bell chamber around the smoke outlet and the heat riser holes.
  
Si la cloche est trop grande il faut la rétreindre (découper et visser) pour l’ajuster aux éléments.
+
If bell chamber is too big, you will need to make it smaller (by cutting and screwing it together) so that it fits in with the different components.
  
'''Ajustement en hauteur'''
+
'''Adjusting the height'''
* Prendre la longueur entre le niveau du béton et le haut du fût, y retrancher 2-3 mm de marge et l’épaisseur du verre céramique et ajouter 15mm d’ailettes
+
* Take the length between the level of the concrete and the height of the barrel. * Deduct a  2-3 mm margin and the thickness of the glass and add 15mm for the fins.
* Reporter ces mesures sur la future cloche et poser un scotch sur tout le périmètre, ce sera la marque à suivre lors de la découpe
+
* Use these measurements when making the bell chamber and put some tape all along the edges. This is for marking the line you need to follow when cutting.
* Découper la cloche
+
* Cut out the bell chamber
* Indiquer la hauteur finale de la cloche (distance entre le niveau du béton et le haut du fût, y retrancher 2-3 mm de marge et l’épaisseur)
+
* Mark the final height of bell chamber (distance between the level of the concrete and the height of the barrel, deducting a 2-3 mm margin and the thickness of the glass)  
* Réaliser les ailettes du côté où la découpe est la moins propre.
+
* Make the fins out of the side where the cut is not as clean.  
* Plier toutes les ailettes vers l’extérieur, elles permettront à la cloche de tenir sur le béton.
+
* Fold all the fins out towards the outside.  This will allow the bell chamber to stick onto the concrete.
 +
|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_alim_et_cloche.png
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
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{{Tuto Step
|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_patron_vitre.png
+
|Step_Title=Cutting out the glass
|Step_Title=Découpe de la vitre
+
|Step_Content=The glass should cover the whole of the bell chamber.Before cutting it, check the sides on the Poelito. It is important to make sure that the template is the right size.
|Step_Content=La vitre doit recouvrir toute la cloche. Avant de la faire découper, vérifiez les cotes sur votre poelito, il est important de s’assurer que le patron soit de la bonne taille.  
 
  
Ce doit être un verre vitrocéramique, qui résiste aux hautes températures. Voir Etape n°1 - Approvisionnement matériel
+
Ceramic glass should be used as it is resistant to high temperatures.
 +
See Step 1 - Provision of Materials
  
Si vous l’achetez dans un magasin de bricolage (400 – 700 €/) faites la découper sur place.
+
If you buy this in a DIY shop (€/400 - 700€/), get it cut on the premises
(PATRONS)
+
(TEMPLATES)
 +
|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_patron_vitre.png
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
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{{Tuto Step
 +
|Step_Title=Cutting out the lid
 +
|Step_Content=The lid closes off the top of the Poelito. It  does not have any particular purpose in the system.
 +
* Mark the feed pipe and bell chamber positions on the bottom of the lid.
 +
* Cut out using a jigsaw.
 +
* Position it on the stove.
 
|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_d_coupe_couvercle.png
 
|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_d_coupe_couvercle.png
|Step_Title=Découpe du couvercle
 
|Step_Content=Le couvercle ferme le haut du poelito, il n’a pas de rôle particulier dans le système.
 
* Tracer sur le dessous du couvercle le conduit d'alimentation ainsi que la cloche.
 
* Découper à la scie sauteuse
 
* Positionner sur le poêle
 
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
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{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=Peinture
+
|Step_Title=Painting
|Step_Content=La construction du poêle est terminée, avant de l’installer dans son futur habitat, il mérite un coup de peinture.
+
|Step_Content=ou have now finished making the stove.  Before installing it in your future dwelling, it would a good idea to paint it.
* Utiliser des peintures spéciales pour poêles qui résistent aux hautes températures.
+
* Use special paints for stove which are resistant to high temperatures.
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
+
{{Tuto Step
 
|Step_Title=Installation
 
|Step_Title=Installation
|Step_Content=La construction du Poelito est terminée! il est l'heure de le sortir de l'atelier pour lui trouver une place à long terme pour en profiter durant les longues soirées d'hiver.
+
|Step_Content=The stove is now complete. It is now time to take it out of the workshop to find it a place to keep it long term to get the benefit of it during the long winter nights.
  
Attention à bien respecter les règles de sécurité rappelée dans l'Etape n°4
+
Take care to respect Health and Safety rules in Step 4
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
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{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=Remplissage de sable
+
|Step_Title=Filling it up with sand
|Step_Content=Une fois l’appareil installé au bon endroit, sur un socle approprié, avec son tuyau installé, il faut commencer par mettre en place la cloche et le conduit d’alimentation.  
+
|Step_Content=Once the device has been installed in the correct position, onto an appropriate base and with the pipe fitted onto it, you now need to put the bell chamber and the feed pipe in place.
* Poser le conduit d’alimentation en bois et la cloche à blanc (sans mortier ni joint) et ajuster les écartements.
+
* Position the wood feed pipe and the bell chamber (without any mortar or sealant) as a dummy run and adjust any gaps.
  
* Poser le couvercle par-dessus pour vérifier aussi les alignements.  
+
Put the lid on the top to check the alignments.
  
* Utiliser les ailettes pour ajuster (replie- les pour redresser un conduit un peu penché).
+
Use the fins to adjust (fold back to straighten them up if they are a bit skewed)
  
* Lorsque tout est en place, déposer sur la jonction ailettes/maçonnerie des petits paquets de mortier d’argile, en les répartissant progressivement tout autour jusqu’à tout recouvrir. Il s’agit d’éviter que le sable ne fuit par les espaces entre les ailettes.
+
* Once in place, put small blobs of clay mortar onto the junction where the fins and masonry meet, spreading it out gradually until it is all covered. This prevents the sand leaking out of any spaces between the fins.
Mortier d'argile : terre argileuse (qui colle) et du sable en proportions variables. Généralement 1 argile pour 3 à 5 sable, avec ce qu’il faut d’eau pour en faire des boules qui se tienne et qui collent. Si pour un enduit ou de la maçonnerie il vaut mieux s’assurer d’avoir les proportions idéales, ici ça n’a aucune importance.
+
Clay mortar: clay soil (which is sticky) and sand in variable proportions. Generally, 1 part clay to 3 to 5 parts sand, with enough water to make balls that hold and stick .
 +
If it is used for sealing or as masonry, it is best to ensure you have the right proportions. However, in this case, this is not important.
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
+
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=Pose de la vitre
+
|Step_Title=Fitting the glass
|Step_Content=Poser la vitre sur la cloche sans joint.
+
|Step_Content=Place the glass on the bell chamber without sealing it.
* Faire quelques feux pendant lesquels le sable va se tasser.
+
* Light fires to allow the sand to settle.
  
* Ajouter du sable quand c’est nécessaire.
+
Add more sand as necessary.
  
* Mettre du sable de niveau jusqu'au haut de la cloche
+
* Fill up with sand to just above the height of the bell chamber.
  
* Poser par-dessus de la tresse minérale pour porte de poêle (disponible en magasin de matériaux)  
+
* Attach mineral rope on the top so you are able carry the stove (available in hardware stores)
  
* Replacer la vitre.  
+
* Reposition the glass.
* Replacer le couvercle, la mise en place est terminée.  
+
* Put the lid back on.  Installation is complete.
  
* Profiter du poêle jusqu’au printemps !
+
* Make the most of the stove before the Spring arrives!
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
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{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=Notice d'utilisation
+
|Step_Title=Directions for use
 
|Step_Content===== Préparation du combustible ====
 
|Step_Content===== Préparation du combustible ====
Il faut du bois très sec sans quoi le poêle chauffera mal et s’encrassera. Il faut 2 types de combustibles :
 
* le bois de préchauffage : très fin et court, de l’ordre de 10 à 20 cm de long pour un diamètre maximum de 4 à 5 cm, idéalement du résineux qui est plus facile à allumer.
 
  
* le bois de chauffe : de longueur variable (de 30 cm jusqu’à la hauteur sous plafond) plutôt bien droit et assez fin. *
+
Wood must be bone-dry.  If not, the stove will not heat up properly and will get clogged up. You need 2 types of fuel:
Si les 10 à 15 cm de section du conduit d’alimentation (selon le modèle) sont remplis avec une seule grosse bûche ça ne brûlera pas bien du tout ! Il faut des diamètres variés et complémentaires afin de bien remplir le conduit. Le bois tordu empêche un bon remplissage, il faut donc s’arranger pour recouper les branches là où elles sont tordues, quitte à avoir des longueurs différentes. Sinon toute essence fera l’affaire, à condition que le bois soit bien sec.  
+
* Fire-lighting wood: this is small thin bits of wood about 10 to 20cm long and is a maximum of 4 to 5 cm thick. Ideally this should be softwood as it is easy to catch fire.
 +
 
 +
* Firewood: of variable lengths (from 30cm up to the height of the ceiling!). Preferably, it should be straight and reasonably thin. *
 +
If 10 to 15cm sections of  the wood feed pipe (according to the model) are filled with one big log, then it will not burn very well at all. You need wood of varying and complementary sizes for filling up the conduit properly. Twisted wood is not the ideal for fuelling and should therefore be arranged in such a way that the twigs overlap where they are twisted. Avoid having differing lengths; otherwise, any fuel will do as long at it is wood that is bone-dry.
  
 
==== Chargement de la flambée de préchauffage ====
 
==== Chargement de la flambée de préchauffage ====
Placer dans le conduit d’alimentation, depuis l’ouverture supérieure, dans cet ordre-là :
 
* une poignée d’allume feu bien aéré (carton ou papier déchiqueté, copeaux grossier ...)
 
  
* une poignée de cagette bien brisée,  
+
Put the following into the feed pipe via the opening at the top in the following order:
 +
* A handful of loose fire-lighting material (cardboard, shredded paper, coarse shavings)
 +
 
 +
* A handful of well broken pieces of crate.
  
* Une poignée de petit bois de préchauffage fendu très fin (idéalement du résineux),
+
* A handful of finely chopped fire-lighting wood (ideally softwood)
  
* une poignée de bois de préchauffage de diamètre plus important (4 à 5 cm maxi)  
+
* A handful of thicker fire-lighting wood  (4 to 5 cm max thick)
  
* Vérifier que le départ horizontal vers la zone de flamme n’est pas obstrué par le bois.  
+
* Check the horizontal exit towards the flame area is not obstructed by the wood.
  
* Vérifier le niveau de cendres et vider s’il y en a trop avant de passer à l’allumage.  
+
* Before lighting, check the ash levels and empty if there is too much.  
  
 
==== Amorçage du tirage et allumage ====
 
==== Amorçage du tirage et allumage ====
  
 
==== Placer un peu de cendre ou de sable dans le bouchon du T au pied de la ligne d’évacuation (seulement la 1ère fois) ====
 
==== Placer un peu de cendre ou de sable dans le bouchon du T au pied de la ligne d’évacuation (seulement la 1ère fois) ====
* verser 5cl d’alcool à brûler dessus.
 
* Allumer et replacer rapidement le bouchon.
 
* Allumer le feu au niveau du cendrier
 
* replacer les 2 couvercles (dessus de l’alimentation et cendrier) en position entrouverte. Le tirage produit par la combustion de l’alcool assure un allumage rapide et idéal à chaque fois.
 
* Si de la fumée s’échappe par le haut, refermer totalement le couvercle d’alimentation et réduire l’ouverture du cendrier. 
 
  
==== Chargement ==== 
+
* Pour on 5cl of methylated spirits
Dès que la charge de préchauffage est bien allumée, ajouter par-dessus, sans tasser, suffisamment de bois pour remplir l’intégralité de la section d’alimentation. C’est une condition importante pour que le bois brûle correctement : la combustion est meilleure si tu remplis toute la section. Le feu se développe d'avantage dans la zone de flamme, et moins dans le conduit d'alimentation. 
+
* Light and quickly put the stopper back in.
 +
* Light the fire in the ash tray
 +
* Put the two lids half back on (on the feed pipe and the ash tray). Draughts which are produced by burning methylated spirits provide a fast and practical way to light the fire every time.
 +
* If smoke escapes from the top, close the feed-pipe lid right down and reduce the ashtray opening.
 +
 
 +
==== Chargement ====
  
Attention à ne pas trop serrer le bois qui doit pouvoir descendre naturellement au fur et à mesure qu’il brûle.  
+
Once the fuel used for fire-lighting has been well set alight, add enough wood from the top to fill up the whole of the feed pipe without cramming it in. These are the right conditions for the wood to burn properly: combustion is better if the whole of the pipe is filled. The fire develops best in the fire zone and not so well in the feed pipe.
 +
 
 +
Take care to not constrict the wood too much and it needs to fall naturally whilst it is burning.
  
 
==== Gestion du feu et rechargement ====
 
==== Gestion du feu et rechargement ====
Vérifier de temps en temps que le bois brûle seulement en partie inférieure et ne se bloque pas. Secoue ton bois pour l’aider à descendre au besoin.  Réglage du tirage : il faut conserver une petite ouverture sur le cendrier pour éviter l’accumulation de braises. Si cette ouverture est trop grande le feu peut s’emballer jusqu’à remonter et fumer par en haut. L’essentiel de l’air doit arriver par le haut du conduit d’alimentation : la réduire de moitié au maximum mais jamais d’avantage ! 
 
  
Si la vitre noircit 3 possibilités : le bois n’est pas sec, le régime de combustion est trop intense (trop d’air au cendrier), l’arrivée d’air par en haut est trop faible.  
+
Check periodically that the wood is only burning in the bottom part and is getting stuck.Shake the wood up to move it down the pipe if needed. Controlling the draught: it is necessary to retain a small opening on the ash tray to prevent the embers from building up. If this opening is too big, the fire can become wild to the point of rising up and smoking from above. The important thing is that the air should come in from the top of the feed pipe: reduce by a half maximum but never any more than that ǃ
 +
 
 +
If the glass goes black, one of three thing are wrong: the wood is not dry, it is burning too intensely (too much air in the ashtray), there is not enough air supply from the top.
  
<nowiki><u>ATTENTION</nowiki> : <nowiki></u></nowiki> Pendant la flambée, l’appareil demande peu de surveillance et d’entretien. Mais avec du bois très long la combustion peut remonter le conduit d’alimentation et s’emballer, surtout avec du résineux (palette). Si c’est le cas, vaporiser un peu d’eau dans le conduit d’alimentation pour le refroidir.
+
<nowiki><u>ATTENTION</nowiki> : <nowiki></u></nowiki> During burning, the device requires little surveillance and maintenance.However, with very long pieces of wood, the flames can go up the feed pipe and become wild, especially with softwood. If this is the case, squirt some water in the wood feed pipe to dampen it.
 
}}
 
}}
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}
+
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=Entretien
+
|Step_Title=Maintenance
 
|Step_Content===== Entretien courant ====
 
|Step_Content===== Entretien courant ====
Le seul entretient à effectuer régulièrement est le vidage des cendres. Si le niveau de cendres est trop important une accumulation de braises va se produire, jusqu’à boucher le départ latéral vers la zone de flammes : c’est l’arrêt d’urgence assuré, après un bon enfumage !
 
  
Entretient annuel La loi oblige tout utilisateur de poêle à bois à ramoner le conduit d’évacuation des fumées 2 fois par an dont une fois en période de chauffe. Pour ramoner le conduit glisse un hérisson nylon de diamètre approprié par le tampon de ramonage. Va jusqu’en haut puis redescend. Si tu fais ça dans un poêle encore chaud le tirage va inciter les poussières à sortir par en haut plutôt qu’à sortir vers l’habitat. Il est aussi important de vider le dépôt de cendres qui va se produire en pied de circuit de flamme et surtout au fond du collecteur de fumées. C'est l’endroit préféré des cendres volantes pour se déposer, d'l'utilité des trappes de ramonage en face du collecteur.
+
The only maintenance you need to do is to empty out the ashes. If the there is too much ash, then there will be a build-up of embers up to the point that it will clog up the lateral draught towards the area where the flames are: this will mean that it will stop suddenly after a good smoking!
 +
 
 +
Yearly maintenance. The law states that all users of wood stoves must clean out the flue twice a year, on one of these occasions, the stove must be burning.  
 +
Clean out this pipe using a nylon brush with a diameter appropriate to the cleaning out cap. Push it up to the top and then back down again. If you do this whilst the stove is still hot, the draught will push the dust out the top rather than come down into the dwelling. It is also important to empty the deposits of ash which are produced at the bottom of the fire and especially at the back of the manifold.
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This is where it is the ash tends to fly around before being deposited. This is why is it useful to have the door providing access for cleaning opposite the manifold.
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|Step_Content='''Got two minutes? Whether or not you would like to do this low-tech, your answer to [https://framaforms.org/votre-avis-sur-ce-tutoriel-du-low-tech-lab-1589450161 this form] would help us improve our tutorials. Thank you in advance for your help!'''
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As all the work of the Low-tech Lab, ''this tutorial is participative'', do not hesitate to add the modifications which seem important to you, and to share your achievements in comments.
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{{Tuto Step
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|Step_Title=Exposition - Fiche pédagogique
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|Step_Content=Support pédagogique de l'exposition "En quête d'un habitat durable" Low-tech Lab
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|Step_Picture_00=Poelito_-_Po_le_de_masse_semi-d_montable_Expo-Poelito.pdf
 
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{{ {{tntn|Notes}}
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{{Notes
|Notes=<s class="diffchange diffchange-inline">Retrouvez tout et même plus encore sur le site de l'association des2mains :</s>
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|Notes=* Find everything and even more on our sister site des2mains :
  
<s class="diffchange diffchange-inline">* <nowiki>https://sites.google.com/site/assodes2mains/poele</nowiki></s>/<s class="diffchange diffchange-inline">le-poelito</s>
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* https://sites.google.com/site/assodes2mains/poele/le-poelito
  
<s class="diffchange diffchange-inline">* <nowiki>https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SDJ3YHpDVMU-OoX5gND9xs4qdx8HZaNJ/view?usp=sharing</nowiki></s>
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* https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SDJ3YHpDVMU-OoX5gND9xs4qdx8HZaNJ/view
  
<s class="diffchange diffchange-inline">plein d'autres informations sur l'usage du poelito et d'autres solutions sur le site de David :</s>
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- More information on the use of poelito and other solutions on David's website :
  
<s class="diffchange diffchange-inline">* <nowiki>http://david.mercereau.info/</nowiki></s>
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*https://david.mercereau.info/
  
<s class="diffchange diffchange-inline">et</s>
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and
  
<s class="diffchange diffchange-inline">* <nowiki>https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Po%C3%AAle_de_masse_rocket</nowiki></s>
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*https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rocket_mass_heater
  
<s class="diffchange diffchange-inline">* <nowiki>https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Po%C3%AAle_de_masse</nowiki></s>
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*https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Po%C3%AAle_de_masse
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- Super retour d'expérience sur la construction et l'utilisation du poêlito de Jacob Karhu: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltxlY5X3hRk
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Revision as of 18:59, 25 February 2021

Tutorial de avatarLow-tech Lab | Categories : Housing, Energy

Semi-removable inertia mass stove. A mass storage stove or ‘heat storage stove’ is a primary heating device. Its mass, which is made up of heavy material (stone, brick and concrete), stores energy from a fire that burns once during the day (lasting between 1 and 3 hours). Once the fire has gone out, it then continues to give out heat over a prolonged period (for up to 24 hours). Its mass provides thermal inertia which helps to keep an even temperature inside a building (which is why these stoves are often also called “inertia stoves”). The whole of the quantity of wood needed to heat the dwelling is burnt in one go, making it burn hotter which allows complete and more environmentally-friendly combustion. It is a storage device which is designed to absorb the bulk of the energy that is generated from combustion and exhaust gases, which cool down considerably once out of the stove. Accumulated heat is mainly diffused by radiation and, in a few cases, by convection. This particular type of heating, i.e. that uses radiation, is best located in the centre of the dwelling and therefore, most mass stoves these days are positioned in the main room which opens out onto the lounge, dining room and kitchen. As yield tends tend to be in the majority of cases higher than 80%, these stoves are considered to be one of the most efficient wood-fuelled heating devices. Watch the tutorial video here [2]

Difficulty
Medium
Duration
5 day(s)
Cost
300 EUR (€)
Other languages:
British English • ‎español • ‎français

Contents

License : Attribution-ShareAlike (CC BY-SA)

Introduction

The Poelito is a wood-burning inertia stove for small and/or non-fixed dwellings (e.g. motor homes, yurts, caravans, mobile homes, narrow boats etc.). Such dwellings have the following characteristics: - they are less spacious inside and therefore only need a small amount of power to heat. Because of this, a conventional stove is often excessive as it heats the space up too quickly. It therefore needs to burn when it is not giving any real benefit which leads to pollution, soot deposits and poor performance. - Inertia is low which means that there is very little mass that can absorb excess heat and later release it. It therefore gets cold quickly once the source of heat has gone. A storage heater is the perfect answer to these problems.It stores a vast amount of heat and only needs to be burning for 2 hours every 12 to 24 hours; therefore the fire needs to be maintained for less time and heat can be given out over longer periods.

Pour les volontaires, inscrivez vous par ici : https://cloud.retzien.fr/index.php/apps/forms/3oHSjHD7225sfS9M

Le Poelito est un poêle à bois à inertie destiné aux habitats de petites dimensions et/ou légers (camion, yourte, caravane, mobil home, péniche …). Ces habitats sont caractérisés par : - une petite surface à chauffer, donc une faible puissance de chauffe requise. De ce fait un poêle habituel est souvent surdimensionné car il fait vite trop chaud. L’habitant l’utilise donc au ralenti, ce qui induit encrassement, pollution et performances médiocres. - une faible inertie, c'est-à-dire peu de masse permettant d’absorber la chaleur excédentaire pour la restituer plus tard. Il y fait donc rapidement froid après l’extinction des sources de chaleur. Un poêle à accumulation correspond parfaitement à ces contraintes. Il stocke beaucoup de chaleur, permettant de faire seulement 2h de feu toutes les 12 à 24 heures. Limitant ainsi la durée d’entretien du feu et permettant un chauffage sur de longues périodes.

It works on the basis of combining “mass” with “portability”: the sand, which can be easily taken out, provides some of the inertia. If the stove is emptied out then it is easier to move. Whilst in use, the Rocket stove has a vertical feed mechanism which means wood can be supplied to it automatically using gravity. During combustion, the flame is sucked sideways across the bottom which allows air to be supplied from above the fuel. It is an original design guaranteeing efficiency but needs supervision when in use.

This tutorial has been produced by David Mercereau. This is a transcript of work carried out by Vital BIES, who are at the forefront of the idea behind the design of the Poelito and authors of the manual : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SDJ3YHpDVMU- OoX5gND9xs4qdx8HZaNJ/view. We would like to thank them for the work they have done for our community. Only the construction and operating instructions are included in this tutorial. Additional options are covered in the Vital manual which include the doors providing access for cleaning and adding extra features such as heated seating or a water heater. We will also not be covering the openings from which the sand is removed as this will add to the complexity of building it. The sand can be removed at any time from the top of the stove.

This English translation has been possible thanks to the PerMondo project: Free translation of website and documents for non-profit organisations. A project managed by Mondo Agit. Translator: Gill Barringer. Whilst great efforts have been made to ensure the quality of this translation, the translator makes no guarantees and will accept no liability for any claims made against her in the event of any misinterpretation, errors or omissions thereof.

Find in this report an analysis for the use of this poelito, as well as the 11 other low-techs experimented during the project En Quete d'un Habitat Durable (In Search of a Sustainable Habitat) }}

Video overview

Materials

Metalwork

  • Metal drum
  • Pipework (tubes of differing diameters and T-tube)
  • Sewer grate

Ironmongery:

  • Self-tapping screws,
  • Nuts and bolts

Concrete:

  • Tamper for packing down and applying the concrete,
  • Wire,
  • An old cloth to put in the drum to deaden the noise whilst you are working.

Moulds:

  • Plastic packaging (cellophane),
  • Gaffer tape
  • Masking tape,
  • Corrugated cardboard,
  • Cardboard tubes of 80, 100, 130mm diameters respectively

Tools

Health and Safety:

  • Gloves,
  • Goggles,
  • Ear defenders/ earplugs,
  • Dust masks
  • First aid kit containing saline solution in case cements gets into eyes.

For Marking/Measuring:

  • Tape measure,
  • Pencil,
  • Marker
  • String (2 metres approx.),
  • Spirit level

For the Metalwork:

  • Hammer/sledgehammer/chisel,
  • Pincers
  • Adjustable pliers
  • Tin snips (often more practical that using an electric device)
  • Jigsaw + metal blades
  • Clamp
  • Drill + metal drill bits
  • Wire brush for drill
  • Angle grinder + cutting, grinding and flap disks,
  • Sander (optional)

Concrete:

  • Tarpaulin
  • 1 litre measuring cup,
  • Trowel
  • 2 x 10 litre buckets, mixing tray, container or bin for mixing concrete
  • Hand mixer
  • Power drill with paddle or manual mixer or cement mixer (optional)

Casting:

  • Cutter,
  • Scissors,
  • Handsaw

Step 1 - Provision of Materials

There are a number of items that are needed to build this stove, which can either be bought from new or salvaged.

  • The drums are easy to obtain, apart from the 120 litre ones, which are rare... and it can cost 50€ (excluding taxes) to buy one of this size from new.
  • The stove pipes, which form the fire pit, are very easy to salvage and will be considerably more expensive if bought from new.

NB 1: the 2 pipes that are used for the (fixed) ash tray and the (removable) feed pipe must have a male fitting at one of their ends to accommodate the stopper. NB 2: A rigorous approach must be adopted when producing the exhaust system, using pipes which are compatible with one another. It is important to avoid leaks (condensates as well as smoke) and also the risk of fire .

  • Concrete can be made up of sand and fire cement but this will not be as durable as using chamotte concrete/fire cement. Chamotte consists of ground-up fire brick and must contain 25 to 40% alumina. To contact manufacturers of fire bricks, see list in the annex.Grain size of 0 to 10 mm grade is ideal, but 0 to 5 mm can also be used.

AVOID making concrete with ordinary cement or ‘black’ cement (unlike fire cement, it does not contain alumina)

  • Vermiculite: mixed with cement acts to insulate the bottom of the container. You can find this in builder's merchants and garden centres mostly under the names of “Vermex” or “Effiperl” (NB the latter also contains perlite and is a French brand)
  • Ceramic glass: this is specialist glass which does not expand when exposed to heat and is resistant to thermal shocks of up to 800°C ! You can buy it in the shops (for about €400 to €600 per m²) but you can also salvage it from old inserts, electric hobs, oven doors (inner glass only, otherwise it is likely to have little resistance to heat). Do not use ordinary glass ! To test salvaged glass, stand on a flat surface and put the glass onto a gas camping stove. If it resists the heat, then that is a good sign.

The final thing to do for the ‘crash test’ is pour a glass of cold water over it. If there is no reaction, then it is specialist glass. Do not put it on the grass in case it breaks.

In this image, you will find the average supply costs for the different models. Taking the drum and the smoke exhaust out of the equation, the pipework will be a major part of the budget.




Step 2 - How the Device is made up:

The idea behind the Poelito is to build a rocket stove inside a drum. The bottom of the drum is lined with an insulating mix of concrete; however the stove still needs to stand on a fire-proof support.The bottom part of the stove is cast in refractory concrete around a mould made of cardboard tubes. This is the area where the fire develops.Tubes are used to make the hollowed-out conduits: these are the routes which the smoke and fire take. The lower part forms the base of the fire pit and is a fixed body of material. The upper half is made up of removable metal pipes and is filled up with sand. This can either be left standing or transported separately. The fire pit can be closed to the outside either by a cast iron plate or by a pane of ceramic glass which can then be covered over by the drum lid as a finishing touch. The exhaust pipe is on the outside of the drum to which connection is made by a T joint with cap for cleaning out. Any pipes that go along the ceiling and to roof vents (or anything which goes outside of the dwelling) must be insulated.

In the picture, you can see the bottom of the vertical feed pipe and the ash tray at the front and, behind, the pipe where the fire is lit . This together forms the burner. Towards the back, there are 2 pipes where the smoke is forced down. These are situated on either side of the pipe where the fire lit. These pipes join up underneath by means of a manifold which directs the smoke towards the back in the direction of the smoke exhaust which forms the manifold. Connection to the exhaust pipe is by means of a T with cap.


Step 3 - Sizingː

It is possible to make the Poelito in three different sizes which will be depend on the type of dwelling, the space that is to be heated, the exterior temperature and how well the dwelling is insulatedː

  • PITO 60 made from a 60 litre drum (Ø35 cm H 65 cm): suitable for a truck or small caravan. Allow for 80kg

It is low power and low mass and is only suitable for small buildings with, at the very least, good insulation. As an example, in a large caravan (7m long), it is OK for temperatures down to 0°C but when the temperature drops to -5°C you cannot expect any more than 12°C in the morning if you lit a fire in the evening. Heavy use of an under-sized stove makes it less durable.The cooking area is fairly small and only allows use of small pans.

  • PITO 120 is made with a 120 litre drum (Ø45 cm H 75 cm) and is suitable for a yurt of up to 5m in diameter if well insulated. It is perfect for a large caravan or a mobile home. Allow for 160 kg

This is the best compromise in the terms of bulk v power and transportability. It also is suitable for a studio. It has a good cooking area with the possibility of a water heating option.

  • PITO 200 is made with a 200 litre drum (Ø60 cm H 90 cm) which can be used in a yurt which is larger than 5m in diameter, a small house, a small narrow-boat....allow for 250 kg.

This design is most suitable for lightweight dwellings with a floor-space of more than 20 m² or for a solidly-built, moderately insulated dwelling with a floor-space of more than 35 m² .A device which does not need to be moved very often and requires options such as water heating and heated seating would be suitable for this size of dwelling


Step 4 - Fundamental Health and Safety Rules

User’s responsibility

The authors of this guide and the organisation which makes it available disclaim all liability resulting from the use of the Poelito. You are solely responsible for the implementation of the proposed device. Take precautions, remain calm and composed when in action. Above all, question any so-called “good ideas” you may have (e.g. “that will be OK like that”...).

Safety during construction

Always use safety equipment required for the task undertaken. Metal can be a dangerous material to work with and cement may be toxic if inhaled. Ensure you have an suitable work plan and only use the right tools to assemble pieces when machining (clamp, vice, locking pliers)

Installing the stove

Like all stoves, it is important to respect safety rules in order to not put yourself or your dwelling at risk.

Weight /foundations:This device is of a substantial weight.In a lightweight dwelling, it is imperative that you put something under the floor to withstand the weight and avoid it collapsing. As a minimum, you will need at least a block which stands on the hard surface to sufficiently support the floor. If needed, insert a transverse beam between existing supports (to form a joist) and a block for maximum effect. In conjunction with this, a ground protection mat is recommended as the floor can be relatively flexible and can become distorted in places due to the weight being concentrated in a given area (at points of bearing heavy loads). This means laying any such material on the floor that is sufficiently rigid and of a size to distribute the weight over a larger area than that on which the device normally stands.

Ground Protection: Where appropriate, it needs to be placed on a thick metal plate which is large enough to distribute the weight. If installing the device on top of combustible material e.g. a plank of wood, the device must be lifted up to allow air flow underneath or placed onto an additional mass or thick insulation.

Spacing between walls:The stove must be placed 15 cm minimum away from all walls. If there is less than 45 cm between the stove and nearest wall, it must be protected with fireproof insulation such as rockwool. It must not under any circumstances be in contact with combustible material.

Conduits:The smoke exhaust pipe must comply with current standards. These are basic standards and prevent fire from breaking out in the dwelling. There must be a safe distance of 30cm between any wall made of combustible material and a single-skin pipe. A double-skin pipe is to be used for going up inside the roofing and for outside (with a safe distance of 10 cm for it to go through the roofing). A build-up of heat must be avoided at all costs: the 10 cm collar which goes around the pipe where it goes through the roof should not be left unfilled. It will need to be filled with fire-retardant insulation. The temperature could rise sufficiently to catch fire in an empty space (especially if it is closed off from the outside).

Chimney Height: The layout will have an effect on air circulation. Obstructions which cause air disturbances should be avoided. The smoke exhaust pipe, in particular, must 40cm higher than the top of the roof. For flat roofs, it must be higher than 120 cm (in this case, it must be properly secured). According to standards, the pipe must also be higher than any obstruction which is less than 8m away (e.g. trees)

Choosing a place to put the stove:Where you put the stove will be often dictated by the possible paths in which the smoke ducts in the roof can take. Clearly, you need to take into consideration the layout of the room. Avoid raising the device up too much as the room should be heated at ground level. If it is placed next to a wall, you should not only pay attention to safe distances but also to the accessibility needed for drawing air in to light the fire and for cleaning out.

Step 5 - Different types of Concrete: how to make them up and what goes in them.

As part of the process of making the Poelito, you will need to make up concrete. Fire cement is corrosive to the skin and an irritant to the eyes and respiratory tracts: handle using gloves, wear goggles and an anti-dust mask.

You need to make two different mixesː

  • An insulating mix used for the bottom of the drum and the heat riser;
  • And, for the remainder, a dense mix which used to store in the heat.

You can find details below on how to make it and what materials are needed. Reference to this will be made at different times during this tutorial.

How to make up the refractory concrete

  • 1 part water
  • 1 part fire cement
  • 1.3 parts vermiculite
  • Calculate the volumes needed for casting and increase it by 20 %
  • Put the water into the container in which you are going to mix it all up.
  • Pour in the cement.
  • Mix it up until you have a smooth paste
  • Pour all the vermiculite in and mix in until you have an even mixture. The granules should have all turned black and the mix should be sufficiently wet.
  • Add more water if necessary.

How to make up the dense refractory concrete

  • 1 part water
  • 1.3 fire cement
  • 3.3 parts refractory chamotte
  • Calculate the volumes needed for casting and increase it by 10 %
  • Put the chamotte into the container where you are going to make the mix.
  • Pour in the cement on top.
  • Mix them together dry.
  • Add ¾ of the volume of water needed
  • Mix
  • Gradually add more of the remaining water to adjust consistency

As with all binding agents which set hydraulically, losing moisture or drying out too quickly inhibits chemical reactions needed for it to set.

  • Cover whilst it is setting if the weather is hot, do not make mortar in direct sunlight or in freezing weather. It sets fairly quickly: in about ½ hour.
  • Only make up amounts that you can work with within this time-frame.
  • Avoid contact with rainwater which may be acidic and prevent the binding agent from working properly.
  • Avoid using warm water as it speeds up the setting process.

Step 6 - Preparing the drum

Scouring

It is better to scour down the drum before starting construction.In all cases, this should be done before lighting the first fire as this will blister the paintwork which is not designed for resisting high temperatures. The simplest way to scour it down is by using abrasive discs on a grinding machine. It is also possible to use a sander or attach a wire brush to a drill.

Cutting

Unless you have a drum with a detachable lid with strapping, you will need to cut the top off of the drum. The top of the drum is used as the cover for the stove once it has been finished. Avoid damaging it and choose the bottom of the drum (which is a complete unit) in preference to the top (which is where the bungs go). This means turning the drum upside down.

Using an angle-grinder and protective gear for hands, eyes and ears, cut just below the rim taking care to not cut the second layer of the metal sheet. That way, the lid can be replaced. A metal saw also works very well. Tip: Start with using an angle grinder (for easiness) and finish with the saw (for precision). Remember to protect the ground with tarpaulin as the remnants of liquid in the drum may leak out from the area you are cutting.

Cleaning

Now that the drum is opened up, it should be cleaned out as it will almost certainly still have remains of oil in it. Use sawdust or sand to get rid of the bulk of the residual oil content. Dispose of the contents as recommended (most likely as toxic waste, you will need to take to a waste disposal site)

Step 7 - Making the Ash Tray and Smoke Exhaust Holes

Two diametrically opposite holes must be drilled in the drum allowing you to insert the pipes.The front tube (100/130/150 mm in diameter) is to be used as an air inlet and for ash removal.The back tube (80/100/130 mm in diameter) is to be used to connect the smoke exhaust pipe (the respective diameters of PITO model - 60/120/200)

The two tubes should be 6 cm from the bottom of the drum. This is the thickness of the base layer of concrete. When measuring, you need to take into consideration the rim that protrudes beyond the bottom of the drum (If you are filling to 6 cm from the bottom of inside the drum, you then need to add on the thickness of this rim which will be approximately 1.5 cm)

  • Using string, go around the barrel, mark the point at which it meets on the string with a felt-tipped pen: this will give you the circumference of the barrel.
  • Fold the string in half and make a new mark half way between: i.e. half of the circumference.
  • Draw around the tubes which are to be inserted to mark where you need to make the holes.
  • Use string to locate the centres of the 2 apertures opposite each other.
  • Cut out the two circles staying well inside the lines.
  • Hammer the edge of the hole (towards the outside) in order to fit the tube.
  • Keep the cut-out circles to make the stoppers for the ash tray and feed.

Step 8 - Fitting the Ash Tubes and Smoke Exhaust

Ash tray side:

  • Feed the 100/130/150 tube through the hole you made earlier on the drum, male side on the outside with the ridge against the outer wall of the barrel.
  • Mark, on the tube from the inside, the point where it meets the wall of the barrel.
  • Take off the tube and cut 15 mm beyond the line.
  • Then cut out fins in this 15mm band stopping at the marked line using metal shears, a jigsaw or a grinder. These should be 1cm wide so that the they are easy to fold back.
  • When all these have been cut out, re-position the pipe and fold the fins back.
  • If necessary, put a few rivets or self-tapping screws to fix it securely.

Smoke Exhaust side:

On the smoke exhaust side, attach a short sleeve with a female fitting in the same way. The female fitting is on the outside.

Step 9 - Fitting the Moulds

There is a risk that the moulds (which are to be made next) will be displaced when pouring the concrete. They should be secured down to ensure the dimensions are correct.

  • Turn the barrel back over.
  • Drill 3 pairs of holes to the diameter of the wire (as per the diagram opposite). It does not have to be exact.
  • Loop 1m approx. of wire through. This will help to keep the cardboard moulds in place whilst pouring the concrete.

The wires need to point to the inside of drum.




Step 10 - Making the stopper for the ash tray

This stopper allows you to shut off the ash tray and regulate primary air intake.

  • Take one end of the tube which slots onto the (male) ash tray outlet .
  • Cut, adding 15 mm onto the length needed.
  • In this 15mm strip, cut out fins a centimetre apart trying to have an even number as this will look better.
  • Fold every second fin towards the inside.
  • Reuse the cut out circle from the drum to close down the lid.
  • Place the circle on the folded back fins
  • Fold the other fins over.
  • Add a handle and a small door to control air intake.

The system of controlling primary air (in the ash tray) should be rigorous and efficient.This allows you to control the power from combustion.

Step 11 - Casting the protective bottom

The bottom of the stove consists of 2 different layers: 3 cm insulating mix then 3cm dense mix. The purpose of this is to insulate the bottom of the barrel to protect the ground from heat.

  • Mark inside of the barrel the height where the two layers come up to, which is 3 and 6 cm.
  • Ensure that the drum is on a level surface when the concrete is poured.

Insulating Mix:

  • Calculate the volume needed for the insulating https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vtasWBKad9EEFBpeoNq38jT7SOasalra/view
  • Make up the mix referring to the instructions on how to make up the insulating mix and what goes in it Step X.
  • Pour the insulating mix up to the 3cm mark.
  • As you are doing this, pack down the mix using a tamper .
  • Ensure the wires which hold in the moulds are sticking out.
  • Wait two hours until the first layer is surface-dry so that you can then pour on the dense mix.

Tip: Once the mixture has started to set, scarify the surface of the concrete in order that the second layer sticks to it well.

Dense Mix:

  • Calculate the volume needed for the dense mix https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vtasWBKad9EEFBpeoNq38jT7SOasalra/view
  • Make up the mix referring to the instructions on how to make up the dense mix and what goes in it in Step X.
  • Pour in the 3cm of the dense mix up to the 6cm mark.
  • As you are doing this, pack down the mix using a tamper .
  • Ensure the wires which hold in the moulds are sticking out.
  • Wait 24 hours before pouring the remainder.

Step 12 - Making the Moulds

You will need to make the moulds so that you can pour the refractory concrete. This is effectively making the conduits where heat and gases circulate. For this, you will need to make moulds for the different conduits using cardboard which then need be taken out after the concrete has been cast. They need to be made solid enough to withstand the pressure of the concrete but equally be easy as possible to take out once it has all dried.

The minimum thickness for the concrete must be 3 cm between the various components themselves and between the components and the barrel. There is a risk that the concrete might crack underneath making the stove not very durable. There is also a danger of the smoke circulating poorly which means the stove will not work very effectively. That needs to be borne in mind when making the moulds, especially when they are positioned in the concrete when casting the mix .

Cutting

  • As the pipes are effectively cylinders, you need to make an opening so that they can be joined. When cutting out the cardboard tubes, add a few cms to the sides (côtes) listed in the tables e.g. to join a 100mm tube onto a 100mm one, the depth of the opening is 5cm. For thick carton, cut it with a saw (a good way of doing this is with a jigsaw) and a cutter.
  • Use the dimensions in the tables as shown.

Assembly

  • Wrap the tubes individually in protective plastic.
  • Position the tubes relative to one another as depicted in the diagrams.
  • Hold the tubes in place with gaffer tape.

Be careful to ensure the junctions are well covered so that the concrete does not soak into the tubes.

TIP: For connection with the ash tray or smoke exhaust, narrow the gaps with another bit of rigid cardboard. Remove a strip in order to reduce the diameter so that you can slot it into the cardboard mould. TIP: Allow for a 2 cm margin in height so that you have something to get hold of when taking out the castings. TIP: Once the manifold and the horizontal tube where the fire is lit has been completed (these are the hardest to remove), it is possible to cut them longitudinally into 2 or 3 pieces and put them back together. This will make it easier to remove.


Step 13 - Positioning the Moulds.

Once the cardboard castings have been finished and encased, they need to be placed in the barrel and fastened.

  • Slot the cardboard tube into the metal opening of drum.
  • Fasten tightly with 2 strands of wire .
  • Cut off any redundant wire.

Do the same with the ash tray mould.

  • Hold onto the wires and pass them over top the pipe which comes horizontally out of where you light the fire .
  • Wedge the different pieces between each other with bits of wood. This will help to maintain the gaps between the pieces whilst the dense concrete is being poured.

Step 14 - Pouring the Refractory Concrete

  • Mark either with a pen or with tape inside the drum, the height from the bottom layer of concrete to which the dense concrete needs to be poured (350/300/260)
  • Prepare the mix referring to how to make concretes up and what goes in them in Stage X.
  • Pour the concrete in 5 cm max. passes.
  • Pack the concrete down after each pass in a consistent manner. If the concrete is packed down too much on one side, the cardboard mould will not stay in.
  • Make sure the thicknesses are uniform and symmetrical as to not allow any movement in the moulds.
  • If necessary, re-position the wedges as you are pouring the concrete.
  • Repeat until you have reached the specified height.




Step 15 - Removing the Moulds

Removing the moulds can be done 12 hours after pouring the concrete. This can be quite a tedious task.

  • Use gloves to avoid damage to hands from the concrete when poking them into the holes.
  • Pull out all that you are able to retrieve from the orifices either by hand or with a pair of pliers.
  • Once you have taken out as much as you can, light a fire in the hole to burn off and get rid of that which is left inside.
  • Use methylated spirits to facilitate the process of burning the bits you want to get out . However, care must be taken to never put alcohol onto the fire. When the fire gets going, use little pieces of dry wood to keep the fire burning.

Step 16 - How to Make the Wood Feed Pipe.

The length of the wood feed must be adjusted so that its upper end goes through the lid and you can fit a stopper onto it. However, it must be as short as possible as the draught effect produced when lit works against the outlet line. The shorter it is, the easier it is to light.

  • Take the length between the level of the concrete and the top of the barrel, add 15mm for the fins and whatever the height of the stopper is. The top of the tube has to have a male fitting in so you can fit a stopper onto it.
  • Cut out the tube.
  • Make 15mm high fins every centimetre on the lower part.
  • Fold back every other fin towards the outside.

Step 17 - How to make the Wood Feed Stopper

It is the same process for the feed pipe as it would be for the ash tray but without adding the air inlet.

  • Take one end of the tube which fits onto the (male) outlet feed pipe
  • Cut, adding 15 mm onto the length needed.
  • In this 15mm strip, cut out fins a centimetre apart trying to have an even number as this will look better.
  • Fold every second fin towards the inside.
  • Reuse the cut-out circle from the drum to close down the lid.
  • Place the circle on the folded back fins
  • Fold over the other fins on top.
  • Add a handle.

To adjust the secondary air flow, all you need is to put the lid half-on. The lid will never be totally closed down during use. At the end of use, the lid is to be closed. This stops the hot stove from sucking in air into the unit, warming it up and escaping out.

Step 18 - Making the Grate

he system works even better with a grate fitted to the fire pit and with primary air coming in underneath (onto the ashtray). This allows the embers to keep reducing down as you refuel.

ut the drain grate into a tongue shape so that it can be positioned mid-way up the height of the ash tray, It needs to go just at the back of the fire pit to stop the embers from falling out.

Step 19 - How to Make the Heat Riser.

To make this tube out of concrete, you need to make a mould using 2 cardboard tubes, one inside the other. The diameter of the inside tube should match the mould (100/100/80). The diameter of the outside tube must be approximately 6cm larger than the inside one in for the thickness of the tube to be 3cm. This will need to be 2 to 3cm shorter than the bell chamber in order to leave a space under the glass so that the smoke can circulate.

  • Cut the outside cardboard tube.
  • Cover the inside surface in plastic.
  • Cut the inside cardboard tube.
  • Cover the outside surface in plastic.
  • Cut out two rings from cardboard. These will be used as spacers between the inside and the outside tubes.
  • Cover them in plastic.
  • Put the spacers at the bottom to close up the mould.
  • Fill with the insulating mix (fire cement and vermiculite) a bit at a time.
  • Spread the mix out and pack down tightly with a small tamper.

TIP:If you don’t have any cardboard tubes of the right diameter, you can make them by rolling up cardboard. Roll it up with the flutes going vertically.

ALTERNATIVE : For the PITO60, it is possible to make a mould made out of the insulating mix or, alternatively, cut out a tube from thick metal, for example a fire extinguisher (not if made of aluminium) since the gap is very narrow.



Step 20 - Making the Bell Chamber




Step 21 - Cutting out the glass

The glass should cover the whole of the bell chamber.Before cutting it, check the sides on the Poelito. It is important to make sure that the template is the right size.

Ceramic glass should be used as it is resistant to high temperatures. See Step 1 - Provision of Materials

If you buy this in a DIY shop (€/400 - 700€/M²), get it cut on the premises (TEMPLATES)




Step 22 - Cutting out the lid

The lid closes off the top of the Poelito. It does not have any particular purpose in the system.

  • Mark the feed pipe and bell chamber positions on the bottom of the lid.
  • Cut out using a jigsaw.
  • Position it on the stove.




Step 23 - Painting

ou have now finished making the stove. Before installing it in your future dwelling, it would a good idea to paint it.

  • Use special paints for stove which are resistant to high temperatures.

Step 24 - Installation

The stove is now complete. It is now time to take it out of the workshop to find it a place to keep it long term to get the benefit of it during the long winter nights.

Take care to respect Health and Safety rules in Step 4

Step 25 - Filling it up with sand

Once the device has been installed in the correct position, onto an appropriate base and with the pipe fitted onto it, you now need to put the bell chamber and the feed pipe in place.

  • Position the wood feed pipe and the bell chamber (without any mortar or sealant) as a dummy run and adjust any gaps.

Put the lid on the top to check the alignments.

Use the fins to adjust (fold back to straighten them up if they are a bit skewed)

  • Once in place, put small blobs of clay mortar onto the junction where the fins and masonry meet, spreading it out gradually until it is all covered. This prevents the sand leaking out of any spaces between the fins.

Clay mortar: clay soil (which is sticky) and sand in variable proportions. Generally, 1 part clay to 3 to 5 parts sand, with enough water to make balls that hold and stick . If it is used for sealing or as masonry, it is best to ensure you have the right proportions. However, in this case, this is not important.

Step 26 - Fitting the glass

Place the glass on the bell chamber without sealing it.

  • Light fires to allow the sand to settle.

Add more sand as necessary.

  • Fill up with sand to just above the height of the bell chamber.
  • Attach mineral rope on the top so you are able carry the stove (available in hardware stores)
  • Reposition the glass.
  • Put the lid back on. Installation is complete.
  • Make the most of the stove before the Spring arrives!

Step 27 - Directions for use

Préparation du combustible

Wood must be bone-dry. If not, the stove will not heat up properly and will get clogged up. You need 2 types of fuel:

  • Fire-lighting wood: this is small thin bits of wood about 10 to 20cm long and is a maximum of 4 to 5 cm thick. Ideally this should be softwood as it is easy to catch fire.
  • Firewood: of variable lengths (from 30cm up to the height of the ceiling!). Preferably, it should be straight and reasonably thin. *

If 10 to 15cm sections of the wood feed pipe (according to the model) are filled with one big log, then it will not burn very well at all. You need wood of varying and complementary sizes for filling up the conduit properly. Twisted wood is not the ideal for fuelling and should therefore be arranged in such a way that the twigs overlap where they are twisted. Avoid having differing lengths; otherwise, any fuel will do as long at it is wood that is bone-dry.

Chargement de la flambée de préchauffage

Put the following into the feed pipe via the opening at the top in the following order:

  • A handful of loose fire-lighting material (cardboard, shredded paper, coarse shavings)
  • A handful of well broken pieces of crate.
  • A handful of finely chopped fire-lighting wood (ideally softwood)
  • A handful of thicker fire-lighting wood (4 to 5 cm max thick)
  • Check the horizontal exit towards the flame area is not obstructed by the wood.
  • Before lighting, check the ash levels and empty if there is too much.

Amorçage du tirage et allumage

Placer un peu de cendre ou de sable dans le bouchon du T au pied de la ligne d’évacuation (seulement la 1ère fois)

  • Pour on 5cl of methylated spirits
  • Light and quickly put the stopper back in.
  • Light the fire in the ash tray
  • Put the two lids half back on (on the feed pipe and the ash tray). Draughts which are produced by burning methylated spirits provide a fast and practical way to light the fire every time.
  • If smoke escapes from the top, close the feed-pipe lid right down and reduce the ashtray opening.

Chargement

Once the fuel used for fire-lighting has been well set alight, add enough wood from the top to fill up the whole of the feed pipe without cramming it in. These are the right conditions for the wood to burn properly: combustion is better if the whole of the pipe is filled. The fire develops best in the fire zone and not so well in the feed pipe.

Take care to not constrict the wood too much and it needs to fall naturally whilst it is burning.

Gestion du feu et rechargement

Check periodically that the wood is only burning in the bottom part and is getting stuck.Shake the wood up to move it down the pipe if needed. Controlling the draught: it is necessary to retain a small opening on the ash tray to prevent the embers from building up. If this opening is too big, the fire can become wild to the point of rising up and smoking from above. The important thing is that the air should come in from the top of the feed pipe: reduce by a half maximum but never any more than that ǃ

If the glass goes black, one of three thing are wrong: the wood is not dry, it is burning too intensely (too much air in the ashtray), there is not enough air supply from the top.

<u>ATTENTION : </u> During burning, the device requires little surveillance and maintenance.However, with very long pieces of wood, the flames can go up the feed pipe and become wild, especially with softwood. If this is the case, squirt some water in the wood feed pipe to dampen it.

Step 28 - Maintenance

Entretien courant

The only maintenance you need to do is to empty out the ashes. If the there is too much ash, then there will be a build-up of embers up to the point that it will clog up the lateral draught towards the area where the flames are: this will mean that it will stop suddenly after a good smoking!

Yearly maintenance. The law states that all users of wood stoves must clean out the flue twice a year, on one of these occasions, the stove must be burning. Clean out this pipe using a nylon brush with a diameter appropriate to the cleaning out cap. Push it up to the top and then back down again. If you do this whilst the stove is still hot, the draught will push the dust out the top rather than come down into the dwelling. It is also important to empty the deposits of ash which are produced at the bottom of the fire and especially at the back of the manifold. This is where it is the ash tends to fly around before being deposited. This is why is it useful to have the door providing access for cleaning opposite the manifold.

Step 29 -

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Step 30 - Exposition - Fiche pédagogique

Support pédagogique de l'exposition "En quête d'un habitat durable" Low-tech Lab




Notes and references

  • Find everything and even more on our sister site des2mains :

- More information on the use of poelito and other solutions on David's website :

and

- Super retour d'expérience sur la construction et l'utilisation du poêlito de Jacob Karhu: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltxlY5X3hRk

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